2008 Camry V6 - Found lots of issues during 60k service

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I recently completed a 60,000 mile service on a 2008 Camry V6.

The car has 62,000 miles on it. I did an oil change, cabin filter, tire rotation, wiper inserts, battery, transmission flush and brake fluid flush.

During the service, I found the following issues:

1) Left-front strut is leaking (level-1 leak, per TSB #0145-11)
2) Right-front strut is leaking (level-2 leak)
3) Right-rear strut is leaking (level-2 leak)
4) The steering wheel shakes when the brakes applied at high-speeds (need to replace the front rotors and install updated front and rear pads per TSB#0169-09, or use aftermarket pads)
5) The steering wheel clunks/pops when turned, I suspect a failed intermediate steering shaft. (There was a bulletin, #ST002-07, on this issue for the 2007 models, but not for the 2008s.) The ball joints, rack and control arm bushings check-out okay.
6) There is a squealing noise from the belt-drive system during cold idle, but only when the vehicle is in reverse. Weird. The belt looks great. I have been advised to review review TSB #0056-09 and check the condition of the alternator's decoupler pulley to diagnose the issue.
7) There is a small oil leak that is starting to form at the timing cover; the fix is to r/r the whole engine and reseal the timing cover.
8) There is a very very small oil leak that is starting to form at the rear camshaft housing (a few drops); there is a fix for this, but it is very expensive.

Here are some pictures of the issues I found:

1) Left-front strut - Level 2 leak:
LF strut leak - stage 2 by The Critic, on Flickr

2) Right-front strut - Level 1 leak:
RF strut leak - stage 1 by The Critic, on Flickr

3) Right-rear Strut - Level 2 leak:
Right-Rear Strut Leak by The Critic, on Flickr

7) Possible timing cover leak. The black stuff at the timing cover mating surface is oily goo and there are traces of oil in that area. I think this is very early stage of the infamous timing cover leak on these early 2GR-FEs?
by The Critic, on Flickr

8) Possible camshaft housing leak as documented in TSB#0324-08? There was one drop and the area was damp. This is not a valve cover leak, as the valve cover gasket is bone dry.

Camshaft oil leak by The Critic, on Flickr

So far, the owner has approved the replacement of all four struts due to the fluid leakage. Interestingly enough, the strut rod still extends as expected when you test the struts out of the car (and does so smoothly). The owner said he did not notice much of an improvement in handling after the struts were replaced...

My thought was to ignore the oil leaks for now (since they require engine removal to fix), and just continue to monitor them at each service going forward.

The brake pedal pulsation matter is a driver decision since it is not safety-related.

The steering shaft issue is very annoying to me but is not safety-related.

The drive belt looks okay but the noise is a bit concerning.

What would you guys fix next?
 
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I'd probably do the brakes and ISS leaving the rest alone. That's a lot of issues for a low mileage car, it looks clean from the pictures too.
 
Originally Posted By: dishdude
I'd probably do the brakes and ISS leaving the rest alone. That's a lot of issues for a low mileage car, it looks clean from the pictures too.


It really is. I told him that he should seriously consider selling it since some of the early 3.5s had issues with the exhaust VVTi-gear and exhaust camshafts. The U660E often develops shudder problems that require torque converter replacement.

On the bright side, I guess you can address all of the issues (and do some preventative work, such as the water pump) at once when the engine/transmission are out of the car.
 
Originally Posted By: oilpsi2high
I'd trade that thing in fast. Do you really need to remove the engine to do the timing cover gasket?


Supposedly:
http://carspecmn.com/toyota-and-lexus-v6...and-highlander/

The oil leaks, or should I say seepage, are extremely minor at this point. But the location of the seepage I saw isn't the same on that is outlined in the above link -- mine is much lower and closer to the oil pan. From what I can tell, it is still coming from the timing cover, but I could be wrong?
 
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Originally Posted By: oilpsi2high
I'd trade that thing in fast. Do you really need to remove the engine to do the timing cover gasket?
Lots of junk is designed that way now days. the ford 3.5 water pump in the fwd cars is a honey of a design[sarcasm]
 
Would you think by looking at the owner that the car was driven hard...would you dare ask?

It might be politic to ask simply "WHAT KIND OF ROADS was this car driven on...?"

Gravel roads with ruts?
 
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
Would you think by looking at the owner that the car was driven hard...would you dare ask?

It might be politic to ask simply "WHAT KIND OF ROADS was this car driven on...?"

Gravel roads with ruts?



By the pictures, I would say this car never saw a gravel road.
 
the itemimization makes it seem worse than it is. This is a 7year old car,
Only the last three seem troublesome, the rest to me seem to just be wear items or usage related and appropriate to this age of car.

-replace 4 struts
-replace or refinish front rotors.
-replace serp belt. Not sure I buy the "belt looks great". just replace it and see if the squeal goes away before thinking it's something obscure.

steering shaft issue:
You can just get down in there, and see if it is serviceable where the shafts join up.
Do you see any old sticky grease there? if so you can clean up the old grease, and just by hand try to pack on new low temp (room temp) lithium grease into the splines and joint..
Drive it a bit to turn the wheel from lock to lock a few times.
Repeat and by hand try to pack in more new grease into the connection.
That has a good chance to solve the clunk/pop without needing any new parts.

If you can't see any connection then you maybe out of luck if it's a sealed unit.
 
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There are a lot of idiiots who don't even come to a halt when going over speed bumps. Just ram over the bumps w/ no regard to the fact the suspensions are not designed to take the abuse. That could explain the shocks shot.

Now to leaks anyones guess!!!
 
My newer Camry has not only more miles but way more rust...
frown.gif
No way to tell now if I have strut leakage.

Does seem like a lot of issues at low miles. OTOH how long for those leaks to get really bad? I wonder if those can be ignored for years to come.

Also, those struts, someone posted Toyota's guide to strut leakage; and I forget if stage one was worst or four. Anyhow, were they really in need of replacing if no change in performance was noted?
 
That's a V6 japanese car for you, and the reason Nissan has awful reliability, most people are buying the 3.5 in their car because they think it will have amazing reliability AND be fast.
 
Replacing shocks when they are on their way out dramatically reduces wear on the rest of the suspension. Its important to pull up the boots and check every other oil change to see if the shock is leaking or if the ride is smooshy and there is too much play.

Bad shocks spell doom on the steering rack and axles with too much play!!
 
My two older Toyotas have had the timing chain cover leak for the past 100,000 miles. It look a lot worse than it is. No oil drips down, just some seepage at the seal.
 
Originally Posted By: horse123
That's a V6 japanese car for you, and the reason Nissan has awful reliability, most people are buying the 3.5 in their car because they think it will have amazing reliability AND be fast.


Yes, because American V6 motors are works of art
smirk.gif
Please, give me a Japanese made V6 over any other V6 any day.
 
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: horse123
That's a V6 japanese car for you, and the reason Nissan has awful reliability, most people are buying the 3.5 in their car because they think it will have amazing reliability AND be fast.


Yes, because American V6 motors are works of art
smirk.gif
Please, give me a Japanese made V6 over any other V6 any day.


Is there really a difference? They both have their issues. Personal experience (within the family) - never had an engine issue, but lost two Japanese transmissions way before 100k. No American powertrain issues and we've owned way more American than Japanese vehicles.
 
Originally Posted By: supton

Also, those struts, someone posted Toyota's guide to strut leakage; and I forget if stage one was worst or four. Anyhow, were they really in need of replacing if no change in performance was noted?


Toyota tsb #0145-11 covers the criteria. Stage 1 is the worst. Basically if the oil leakage extends below the lower spring seat, it is a candidate for replacement (Stage 1 and Stage 2).

That's a good question - I don't know. I have always been told that if a shock is leaking it should be replaced. Based on the pictures, these were leaking a good amount, but their performance was not horrific. Should they have been replaced? Yes. Was it a safety issue? Debatable, but I would say no.

Originally Posted By: dishdude
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
Would you think by looking at the owner that the car was driven hard...would you dare ask?

It might be politic to ask simply "WHAT KIND OF ROADS was this car driven on...?"

Gravel roads with ruts?



By the pictures, I would say this car never saw a gravel road.

Yeah, this car lives a pretty good life. It is garaged, sees mostly highway driving and still has 75% of it's front and rear pads left after 62k.

Originally Posted By: raytseng
the itemimization makes it seem worse than it is. This is a 7year old car,
Only the last three seem troublesome, the rest to me seem to just be wear items or usage related and appropriate to this age of car.

-replace 4 struts
-replace or refinish front rotors.
-replace serp belt. Not sure I buy the "belt looks great". just replace it and see if the squeal goes away before thinking it's something obscure.

steering shaft issue:
You can just get down in there, and see if it is serviceable where the shafts join up.
Do you see any old sticky grease there? if so you can clean up the old grease, and just by hand try to pack on new low temp (room temp) lithium grease into the splines and joint..
Drive it a bit to turn the wheel from lock to lock a few times.
Repeat and by hand try to pack in more new grease into the connection.
That has a good chance to solve the clunk/pop without needing any new parts.

If you can't see any connection then you maybe out of luck if it's a sealed unit.


I'll be sure to check this out. Appreciate the suggestion - it's certainly worth a look before spending $200 on a new unit.

The belt matter is a bit more puzzling. The belt shows no signs of abnormal wear or glazing. I would expect a worn belt to make noise under circumstances other than just reverse.

Originally Posted By: Leo99
My two older Toyotas have had the timing chain cover leak for the past 100,000 miles. It look a lot worse than it is. No oil drips down, just some seepage at the seal.

As long as the timing cover leak doesn't hit the serpentine drive belt, I'm with you 100% on this one.

Originally Posted By: MaximaGuy
There are a lot of idiiots who don't even come to a halt when going over speed bumps. Just ram over the bumps w/ no regard to the fact the suspensions are not designed to take the abuse. That could explain the shocks shot.

Now to leaks anyones guess!!!


Not sure on the oil leaks - this car has received oil changes every 5k with conventional.

The dude drives this car quite gently, I've been in the car with him. Leaking shocks on the 2007-10 Camry models are not uncommon at all, judging from what I've seen....
 
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