Just wondering if anyone with a regular gasoline powered car running HDEO has noticed that it's a bit harder to start than with PCMO? I've noticed this on a couple different cars running a couple different full synthetic HDEOs. Is this par for the course or an indication of something else like viscosity too high? Both cars spec a 5w30 and the oil I used in each was a 5w40. Thanks!
HDEO in passenger car, harder to start?
- Thread starter charlesb2003
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HDEO won't substitute for a tune up.
True, but this was noticed after a drain of GC 0w30 and a fill to either Chevron Delo 400LE or Shell Rotella T6, both 5w40. On the second car, I drained it out and went back to GC 0w30 and noticed the hard starting issue went away so I suspect it was definitely caused by the oil.
When I say hard starting, I mean that both cars took slightly longer to start, as in maybe one more second of cranking, vs with the GC 0w30. They still started and ran just fine though.
Cars were a 99 BMW 528i and a 2004 Volvo S60 2.5T
When I say hard starting, I mean that both cars took slightly longer to start, as in maybe one more second of cranking, vs with the GC 0w30. They still started and ran just fine though.
Cars were a 99 BMW 528i and a 2004 Volvo S60 2.5T
I use T6 all year round and in the usually frozen north last winter, the only time I noticed a slightly slower CRANKING speed was when it got to well below zero. I would think in Florida that cold weather issue wouldn't be a problem. It's the "5W" performance you are concerned with, I think, and that should be similar regardless of the "upper" number, slight variations in basic thickness among brands being commented upon here from time to time.
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That makes sense then, since I was going from a 0w oil to a 5w oil, has nothing to do with it being HDEO. Maybe next oil change I'll try a 5w PCMO to see if it has the same effects.
I was just concerned that I might be putting extra wear on my starter, but since the car originally spec'd 5w30 it should be fine if that's all it is.
Also I moved back to New Orleans, thanks for reminding me to update my profile. Still hot as you know where here though, which is why I thought running a bit heavier oil in summer might be beneficial.
Thanks for your replies.
I was just concerned that I might be putting extra wear on my starter, but since the car originally spec'd 5w30 it should be fine if that's all it is.
Also I moved back to New Orleans, thanks for reminding me to update my profile. Still hot as you know where here though, which is why I thought running a bit heavier oil in summer might be beneficial.
Thanks for your replies.
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Been running Rotella T and T5 in 10w30 in a Oldsmobile 3.5L without issue. Starts up the same as always, though the weather is warm currently and runs a little quieter also.
I noticed it in a 3.0 Mitsu V-6. I only ran it that OCI. I didnt like the feel of the engine to be honest. T-6 5w-40. It loved GC though.
No different in starting my E430 with M1 0W40 or Chevron Delo 15W40.
In the summer? No difference.
In my application (98 Acura SLX), it was harder to start -slightly- and the engine more sluggish. Year round, all weather, using dino Delvac 1300.
Once I had the underlying ring problem corrected a bit, I switched to PP 5w-30 and it starts more easily, runs quieter, and gets a little better mpg. The HDEO had it's use, but there was a cost attached to it.
Once I had the underlying ring problem corrected a bit, I switched to PP 5w-30 and it starts more easily, runs quieter, and gets a little better mpg. The HDEO had it's use, but there was a cost attached to it.
No! I have used M1 0W40, RTS 5W40, Redline 5W40, Redline 0W40, M1 and Castrol 5W50 in temperatures as low as -28F with NO cold start issues at all! I forgot about BMW 10W60.
I have used these in I4, V6, V8 and Brigg's and Straton V-Twin engines. The Makes have been Toyota, Dodge and General Motors. None of these called for anything thicker than 5W30 on the fill cap.
So unless you experience temperatures colder than what I have you should be fine even with a 5W40.
If your battery is weak, cables are corroded or your starter is on it's last leg that might explain it.
I have used these in I4, V6, V8 and Brigg's and Straton V-Twin engines. The Makes have been Toyota, Dodge and General Motors. None of these called for anything thicker than 5W30 on the fill cap.
So unless you experience temperatures colder than what I have you should be fine even with a 5W40.
If your battery is weak, cables are corroded or your starter is on it's last leg that might explain it.
I'm glad to know that a couple of other people noticed something similar. I'm pretty OCD about my cars so I notice tiny differences in sounds and feel of operation, moreso than most people would notice I suppose.
Both cars were in excellent mechanical shape, starters and batteries were all fine. I really don't think it was the placebo effect as both times I tried an HDEO I really wanted to like them, but both cars just really seemed to prefer GC.
In the BMW (now retired) I never noticed a change in performance, only the slight extra cranking time, so I continued to run the Rotella T6.
In the Volvo (my current daily driver) besides the extra cranking time I did notice a slight decrease in responsiveness from the engine using Delo 400LE, however this could have been in my head due to the decreased engine noise. It did run a bit quieter with the Delo vs GC, but I was concerned that I might have messed something up so I drained it out prematurely and went back to what I know - GC 0w30 with one can MoS2.
One thing to note, from the short OCI with the Delo, my Volvo's oil fill cap and the grating below have less varnish on them, and when I drained the oil out it was black. When I changed the PCV system not too long ago there was lots of hard, dried oil around the hole on the block where the PCV box goes (Volvo people know what I'm talking about, very common on these cars) and while I cleaned it all out of that area now I'm starting to wonder if there's more where that came from inside the engine...
Both cars were in excellent mechanical shape, starters and batteries were all fine. I really don't think it was the placebo effect as both times I tried an HDEO I really wanted to like them, but both cars just really seemed to prefer GC.
In the BMW (now retired) I never noticed a change in performance, only the slight extra cranking time, so I continued to run the Rotella T6.
In the Volvo (my current daily driver) besides the extra cranking time I did notice a slight decrease in responsiveness from the engine using Delo 400LE, however this could have been in my head due to the decreased engine noise. It did run a bit quieter with the Delo vs GC, but I was concerned that I might have messed something up so I drained it out prematurely and went back to what I know - GC 0w30 with one can MoS2.
One thing to note, from the short OCI with the Delo, my Volvo's oil fill cap and the grating below have less varnish on them, and when I drained the oil out it was black. When I changed the PCV system not too long ago there was lots of hard, dried oil around the hole on the block where the PCV box goes (Volvo people know what I'm talking about, very common on these cars) and while I cleaned it all out of that area now I'm starting to wonder if there's more where that came from inside the engine...
Theoretically, it might be possible to notice slower cranking with a high HTHS HDEO versus an ILSAC rated 30 or 20. I'd never be able to tell the difference unless it was something inappropriate for the ambient temperatures.
Incidentally, GC is lighter than plenty of HDEOs, but not necessarily all of them.
Incidentally, GC is lighter than plenty of HDEOs, but not necessarily all of them.
Last OC I put some HDEO 10W40 in the Fiat Marea in my sig, and so far it starts very smoothly, runs smooth, I am not able to tell the difference with standard oil, as far as cranking is concerned. Car is designed to use heavy oils though.
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