I'll have to purchase one of these. I'll be needing a charger/maintainer to keep a riding mower battery from dying over the winter.
Pro-Logix battery charger is awesome.
- Thread starter Traction
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Originally Posted By: Traction
Originally Posted By: White 03
Originally Posted By: Traction
Originally Posted By: White 03
I recently bought a smart charger/maintainer but a different make. The float charge voltage was high 14's; seemed high. If you get a chance check what the voltage is after the full charge and in the maintenance mode, I would like to know.
Thanks.
I just checked it. 12.8 volts. It actually stops charging altogether at 100% charge, then monitors the voltage, and at some level it starts up again with an exercise program that steps the voltage down a ways, then steps it back up to full charge, then stops again. Looks like a great way to maintain batteries.
Thank you. That seems to be a better way for maintenance.
I looked at the web site but couldn't see if it has a separate program for AMG batteries; did you notice if it does?
Yes, it has separate settings for 6/12 volt AGM, GEL, and standard. 2A, 6A, 10A, plus voltage and percent of charge display. Charger also has a cooling fan.
Thanks for the help. I am mostly interested in a maintainer that could be used on all my vehicles, this sounds like it could be a good charger/maintainer for my use.
Originally Posted By: White 03
Originally Posted By: Traction
Originally Posted By: White 03
I recently bought a smart charger/maintainer but a different make. The float charge voltage was high 14's; seemed high. If you get a chance check what the voltage is after the full charge and in the maintenance mode, I would like to know.
Thanks.
I just checked it. 12.8 volts. It actually stops charging altogether at 100% charge, then monitors the voltage, and at some level it starts up again with an exercise program that steps the voltage down a ways, then steps it back up to full charge, then stops again. Looks like a great way to maintain batteries.
Thank you. That seems to be a better way for maintenance.
I looked at the web site but couldn't see if it has a separate program for AMG batteries; did you notice if it does?
Yes, it has separate settings for 6/12 volt AGM, GEL, and standard. 2A, 6A, 10A, plus voltage and percent of charge display. Charger also has a cooling fan.
Thanks for the help. I am mostly interested in a maintainer that could be used on all my vehicles, this sounds like it could be a good charger/maintainer for my use.
How are we to determine this charger is awesome?
Is somebody going to take a known sulfated battery and see if it returns the electrolyte to the original Specific gravity?
Does anybody besides myself take baseline specific gravity readings when the battery is new to measure future readings against? I've seen a range on new batteries from 1.260 to 1.310.
As far as determining a State of charge on a battery hooked up to it, it does this simply by voltage. It is not performing a load test on it or any magical resistance testing mumbo jumbo.
Seeing as how batteries available today will have fully charged resting voltages anywhere from 12.6 to 13.1 volts, a voltage reading to determine state of charge is not very meaningful, and if the battery has been charged, or discharged recently it is nearly entirely meaningless.
Also, if one looks into the manufacturer recommended charging specs for their batteries, one notices the prescribed regimen varies widely as to minimum/ maximum bulk currents, acceptance/ absorption voltages time to hold them there, and float voltages, and how much to adjust these voltages for different temperatures.
A one size fits all charger is not going to meet all battery manufacturer recharge recommendations. A flashing green light saying the battery is full, does not mean the battery is full. More likely is the 92 to 97% range.
True 100% recharges are rare to achieve and the lawyers would not let any universal automatic charger hold the voltages high enough for long enough anyway to achieve the true 100% recharge, as it is safer to undercharge a battery than overcharge one, and nobody is responsible for their own actions in this day and age as ignorance is a mantra chanted by the masses proudly.
As for AGM settings they vary even wider among manufacturers than flooded batteries. A one voltage fits all mentality is not wise for an Expensive AGM battery. Some recommend no more than 14.4 volts, and no more than the 30% recharge rate( as a percentage of amp hour capacity measured at the 20 hour rate) while others like Odyssey demand a minimum 40% charging rate( when deeply cycled) until 14.7volts is reached, and then 14.7v is to be held for 4 hours then float at 13.6v.
Lifeline batteries, pretty much top of the line AGM batteries say to feed their batteries with as much amperage as you can possibly feed them, allowing no more than 14.4 volts. Lifeline even has a recommended reconditioning method on chronically undercharged batteries, that takes voltages into that realm where" no AGM battery should be taken to!!"
Do you think a 10 amp charger is going to return such a battery to maximum energy density with a universal AGM algorithm?
How willing are you to trust that flashing green light?
Now I understand most here just need a charger to top up or recharge a regular flooded starting/lighting/ignition battery and for this, the linked product likely works pretty well, as good as most any other universal lead acid battery chargers out there. If one is asking more from a battery by cycling it regularly, or if the battery is a life and death device, please research the exact manufacturer recharging recommendations and try and find a charger which closely meets those recommendations.
But batteries are not ubiquitous as to their proper recharging regimen. Almost any properly functioning charger placed on a depleted battery is better than letting the battery sit in a discharged state.
Also, battery state of charge and or health is not something easily measured. For most it just works, until it does not. While it works they think it is as good as new, and then one day like a switch was flipped, it "no longer takes a charge!!"
In reality a battery is losing capacity from the day the acid is poured into the cells. The rate at which the capacity is lost is in direct proportion to how the battery is treated. Promptly and fully recharged after any depletion will lead to long battery life. Trusting that that shiny chromed 130 amp alternator will fully and quickly recharge a battery which required a jumpstart, by a couple drives around the block is the pinnacle of battery ignorance.
No matter the charging source, going from 80% to 100% state of charge takes hours.
Playing the radio often, engine off, letting the car sit for weeks without driving, or expecting short drives to top off the battery will lead to a battery which loses capacity faster. Even if the linked charger is not perfectly mated to battery manufacturer recharging recommendations it will greatly help extend battery life.
An Aging battery is like a fuel tank which keeps getting smaller. You can still fill the tank, but at some point, there will not be enough fuel to do the job.
And as far as recovering dead as doornail batteries through magical pulse desulfation, well, I don't believe it, and that opinion is worth what you paid for it.
Is somebody going to take a known sulfated battery and see if it returns the electrolyte to the original Specific gravity?
Does anybody besides myself take baseline specific gravity readings when the battery is new to measure future readings against? I've seen a range on new batteries from 1.260 to 1.310.
As far as determining a State of charge on a battery hooked up to it, it does this simply by voltage. It is not performing a load test on it or any magical resistance testing mumbo jumbo.
Seeing as how batteries available today will have fully charged resting voltages anywhere from 12.6 to 13.1 volts, a voltage reading to determine state of charge is not very meaningful, and if the battery has been charged, or discharged recently it is nearly entirely meaningless.
Also, if one looks into the manufacturer recommended charging specs for their batteries, one notices the prescribed regimen varies widely as to minimum/ maximum bulk currents, acceptance/ absorption voltages time to hold them there, and float voltages, and how much to adjust these voltages for different temperatures.
A one size fits all charger is not going to meet all battery manufacturer recharge recommendations. A flashing green light saying the battery is full, does not mean the battery is full. More likely is the 92 to 97% range.
True 100% recharges are rare to achieve and the lawyers would not let any universal automatic charger hold the voltages high enough for long enough anyway to achieve the true 100% recharge, as it is safer to undercharge a battery than overcharge one, and nobody is responsible for their own actions in this day and age as ignorance is a mantra chanted by the masses proudly.
As for AGM settings they vary even wider among manufacturers than flooded batteries. A one voltage fits all mentality is not wise for an Expensive AGM battery. Some recommend no more than 14.4 volts, and no more than the 30% recharge rate( as a percentage of amp hour capacity measured at the 20 hour rate) while others like Odyssey demand a minimum 40% charging rate( when deeply cycled) until 14.7volts is reached, and then 14.7v is to be held for 4 hours then float at 13.6v.
Lifeline batteries, pretty much top of the line AGM batteries say to feed their batteries with as much amperage as you can possibly feed them, allowing no more than 14.4 volts. Lifeline even has a recommended reconditioning method on chronically undercharged batteries, that takes voltages into that realm where" no AGM battery should be taken to!!"
Do you think a 10 amp charger is going to return such a battery to maximum energy density with a universal AGM algorithm?
How willing are you to trust that flashing green light?
Now I understand most here just need a charger to top up or recharge a regular flooded starting/lighting/ignition battery and for this, the linked product likely works pretty well, as good as most any other universal lead acid battery chargers out there. If one is asking more from a battery by cycling it regularly, or if the battery is a life and death device, please research the exact manufacturer recharging recommendations and try and find a charger which closely meets those recommendations.
But batteries are not ubiquitous as to their proper recharging regimen. Almost any properly functioning charger placed on a depleted battery is better than letting the battery sit in a discharged state.
Also, battery state of charge and or health is not something easily measured. For most it just works, until it does not. While it works they think it is as good as new, and then one day like a switch was flipped, it "no longer takes a charge!!"
In reality a battery is losing capacity from the day the acid is poured into the cells. The rate at which the capacity is lost is in direct proportion to how the battery is treated. Promptly and fully recharged after any depletion will lead to long battery life. Trusting that that shiny chromed 130 amp alternator will fully and quickly recharge a battery which required a jumpstart, by a couple drives around the block is the pinnacle of battery ignorance.
No matter the charging source, going from 80% to 100% state of charge takes hours.
Playing the radio often, engine off, letting the car sit for weeks without driving, or expecting short drives to top off the battery will lead to a battery which loses capacity faster. Even if the linked charger is not perfectly mated to battery manufacturer recharging recommendations it will greatly help extend battery life.
An Aging battery is like a fuel tank which keeps getting smaller. You can still fill the tank, but at some point, there will not be enough fuel to do the job.
And as far as recovering dead as doornail batteries through magical pulse desulfation, well, I don't believe it, and that opinion is worth what you paid for it.
Very good information, and true wrcsixeight, but how do you check specific gravity on AGM and sealed flooded batteries? Also, what type of charger do you recommend,and the best way to maximize battery life? The charger I chose seemed better than most and is used by the place I buy my batteries from and the type recommended by their battery manufacturer. I'm sure there are other choices, but this one seems to work well for the price. And no, it won't magically turn a bad battery into a good one.
Does this awesome charger have temp compensation for both high and low temp? Can one add a sensor to actually monitor the battery temp if the charger is close but not in the same location as battery? Can it maintain multiple charged batteries?
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Donald
I am not convinced about the desulfation capabilities of any charger.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...o_t#Post3314888
I am sure there are a percentage (small) of batteries that can be helped by desulphation, but in the few batteries I have tested it on I did not see enough improvement to be able to put the battery back in service. In the referenced article who knows if they picked batteries likely to be helped.
Originally Posted By: Donald
I am not convinced about the desulfation capabilities of any charger.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...o_t#Post3314888
I am sure there are a percentage (small) of batteries that can be helped by desulphation, but in the few batteries I have tested it on I did not see enough improvement to be able to put the battery back in service. In the referenced article who knows if they picked batteries likely to be helped.
Originally Posted By: Traction
Very good information, and true wrcsixeight, but how do you check specific gravity on AGM and sealed flooded batteries? Also, what type of charger do you recommend,and the best way to maximize battery life?
Can't check SG with an AGM or any sealed battery, so remaining capacity and battery health is only known with a load test and a baseline to compare it to. Amp hour counters to see how much is taken from an AGM/VRLA battery, then comparing it to a rested Ocv voltage chart provided by the manufacturer is another way, but accuracy fades with battery age.
Generally AGM's will stop accepting current at their max allowed voltage, indicating a full charge, where as a flooded battery will always accept a little current even when fully charged. And upping the voltage can always force amps into the battery, whether it is fully charged or not. With sealed batteries this can pop the vents and cause positive plate erosion, with flooded batteries it causes more water usage in addition to positive plate erosion.
Best way to extend battery longevity is to keep it fully charged, and cool. On older vehicles without parasitic loads, a monthly recharge might be as good as keeping the battery on a maintainer. Newer vehicles the parasitic draws are higher so a maintenance charger left plugged in 24/7 is better to counteract self discharge and parasitic draws of engine computer and door locks and alarms ect.
I am personally interested in the Ctek line of chargers, specifically the 25 amp CTEK Multi US 25000, but they are not cheap. This one does have Temp compensation.
I currently have a Schumacher sc2500a Automatic charger that I do not trust to leave unattended as it will go up into the low 16v range, so I am searching for something new.
I also cycle my AGM and deep cycle batteries daily, so my chargers must meet different criteria than those just looking to top up a starting battery when needed.
Those interested in using a Battery charger as a 12vDC nominal power supply need to look into RV converters like Iota, Progressive Dynamics, and Powermax. These come in different amperage ratings. One must provide their own converter to battery cables, but these are like HD battery chargers capable of acting as 12v nominal power supplies while 3 stage charging battery banks.
Unfortunately, very few RV converters come with temperature compensation.
Each choose a different algorithm for charging as far as absorption voltages, durations, and float voltages, and on RV forums the opinions fly as to what is best.
RV converters generally are not put into any fancy cases nor come with fat DC cables and alligator clamps but they are highly capable and can replace most of the Giant wheeled manual chargers that many believe to be the Mecca of battery chargers.
Very good information, and true wrcsixeight, but how do you check specific gravity on AGM and sealed flooded batteries? Also, what type of charger do you recommend,and the best way to maximize battery life?
Can't check SG with an AGM or any sealed battery, so remaining capacity and battery health is only known with a load test and a baseline to compare it to. Amp hour counters to see how much is taken from an AGM/VRLA battery, then comparing it to a rested Ocv voltage chart provided by the manufacturer is another way, but accuracy fades with battery age.
Generally AGM's will stop accepting current at their max allowed voltage, indicating a full charge, where as a flooded battery will always accept a little current even when fully charged. And upping the voltage can always force amps into the battery, whether it is fully charged or not. With sealed batteries this can pop the vents and cause positive plate erosion, with flooded batteries it causes more water usage in addition to positive plate erosion.
Best way to extend battery longevity is to keep it fully charged, and cool. On older vehicles without parasitic loads, a monthly recharge might be as good as keeping the battery on a maintainer. Newer vehicles the parasitic draws are higher so a maintenance charger left plugged in 24/7 is better to counteract self discharge and parasitic draws of engine computer and door locks and alarms ect.
I am personally interested in the Ctek line of chargers, specifically the 25 amp CTEK Multi US 25000, but they are not cheap. This one does have Temp compensation.
I currently have a Schumacher sc2500a Automatic charger that I do not trust to leave unattended as it will go up into the low 16v range, so I am searching for something new.
I also cycle my AGM and deep cycle batteries daily, so my chargers must meet different criteria than those just looking to top up a starting battery when needed.
Those interested in using a Battery charger as a 12vDC nominal power supply need to look into RV converters like Iota, Progressive Dynamics, and Powermax. These come in different amperage ratings. One must provide their own converter to battery cables, but these are like HD battery chargers capable of acting as 12v nominal power supplies while 3 stage charging battery banks.
Unfortunately, very few RV converters come with temperature compensation.
Each choose a different algorithm for charging as far as absorption voltages, durations, and float voltages, and on RV forums the opinions fly as to what is best.
RV converters generally are not put into any fancy cases nor come with fat DC cables and alligator clamps but they are highly capable and can replace most of the Giant wheeled manual chargers that many believe to be the Mecca of battery chargers.
Boy, went through a lot of information up there. I think I did read this charger should be pretty good at keeping automotive batteries charged making for a longer battery life when used in a average temp garage.
I gave back a Genius charger, that I thought would be good, because it floated both my lead acid and AGM batteries at 14.5+ volts. Couldn't tell the amps but I am sure they were small. I call the manufacture and asked why but didn't get an answer that made sense.
Both the one I rid of and this one seem to have some adjustment for AGM rather than one size fits all so that is somewhat positive to me.
For the money this one seems to like it should fill my needs and keep my batteries topped up. Yes or No?
I gave back a Genius charger, that I thought would be good, because it floated both my lead acid and AGM batteries at 14.5+ volts. Couldn't tell the amps but I am sure they were small. I call the manufacture and asked why but didn't get an answer that made sense.
Both the one I rid of and this one seem to have some adjustment for AGM rather than one size fits all so that is somewhat positive to me.
For the money this one seems to like it should fill my needs and keep my batteries topped up. Yes or No?
I already have Schumacher SC7500A automatic charger I bought 8-10 years ago. If I didn't have it I would buy the Pro-Logix PL2310. I think there is no better charger sub $100.
Also, you can return if you buy it from Amazon.com within 30 days after receiving it if not 100% satisfy. If it didn't do what you expect or what it claims just select "Defective Product" when you return it, Amazon will issue prepaid postage and refund full purchase price.
Also, you can return if you buy it from Amazon.com within 30 days after receiving it if not 100% satisfy. If it didn't do what you expect or what it claims just select "Defective Product" when you return it, Amazon will issue prepaid postage and refund full purchase price.
I've seen it mentioned a couple of times now "temperature compensated" It's just a car battery, not in a lab, or million dollar UPS system. The battery already has to survive in extreme temps anyway. The cars charging system is not compensated and the battery is not stored in a temp controlled environment, and this little charger will most likely not fry the battery. It is programmed to gently as possible bring it up to where it needs to be. Maybe not perfect, but better than the chargers I've used before.
One of the battery experts might test it, before they throw it under a bus.
One of the battery experts might test it, before they throw it under a bus.
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JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Traction
Originally Posted By: White 03
I recently bought a smart charger/maintainer but a different make. The float charge voltage was high 14's; seemed high. If you get a chance check what the voltage is after the full charge and in the maintenance mode, I would like to know.
Thanks.
I just checked it. 12.8 volts. It actually stops charging altogether at 100% charge, then monitors the voltage, and at some level it starts up again with an exercise program that steps the voltage down a ways, then steps it back up to full charge, then stops again. Looks like a great way to maintain batteries.
I would prefer a straight up constant float voltage with just minimal changes to compensate for temperature. Doing this adds unneeded stresses to the chemistry, pushes the electrolyte to where gassing can occur, etc.
Originally Posted By: White 03
I recently bought a smart charger/maintainer but a different make. The float charge voltage was high 14's; seemed high. If you get a chance check what the voltage is after the full charge and in the maintenance mode, I would like to know.
Thanks.
I just checked it. 12.8 volts. It actually stops charging altogether at 100% charge, then monitors the voltage, and at some level it starts up again with an exercise program that steps the voltage down a ways, then steps it back up to full charge, then stops again. Looks like a great way to maintain batteries.
I would prefer a straight up constant float voltage with just minimal changes to compensate for temperature. Doing this adds unneeded stresses to the chemistry, pushes the electrolyte to where gassing can occur, etc.
Originally Posted By: Traction
I've seen it mentioned a couple of times now "temperature compensated" It's just a car battery, not in a lab, or million dollar UPS system. The battery already has to survive in extreme temps anyway. The cars charging system is not compensated and the battery is not stored in a temp controlled environment, and this little charger will most likely not fry the battery. It is programmed to gently as possible bring it up to where it needs to be. Maybe not perfect, but better than the chargers I've used before.
One of the battery experts might test it, before they throw it under a bus.
Some vehicles do temp compensate the charging. You can damage a battery by not dropping the voltage when it gets hot. And increase when its cold. Although the heat is the worse of the two.
I've seen it mentioned a couple of times now "temperature compensated" It's just a car battery, not in a lab, or million dollar UPS system. The battery already has to survive in extreme temps anyway. The cars charging system is not compensated and the battery is not stored in a temp controlled environment, and this little charger will most likely not fry the battery. It is programmed to gently as possible bring it up to where it needs to be. Maybe not perfect, but better than the chargers I've used before.
One of the battery experts might test it, before they throw it under a bus.
Some vehicles do temp compensate the charging. You can damage a battery by not dropping the voltage when it gets hot. And increase when its cold. Although the heat is the worse of the two.
Anyone with anything new to add? Anyone have a Schumacher SpeedCharge SC-600, Sc-1000, SC-1200 before getting one of these Pro-logix?
Right now I'm considering between the Speedcharge 1200 and Pro-Logic, so looking for some input between them, but I'm also open to others.
Already have a couple Battery Minders, and a 1.5 amp Schumacher battery companion.
Right now I'm considering between the Speedcharge 1200 and Pro-Logic, so looking for some input between them, but I'm also open to others.
Already have a couple Battery Minders, and a 1.5 amp Schumacher battery companion.
Originally Posted By: Scott_mi
Anyone with anything new to add? Anyone have a Schumacher SpeedCharge SC-600, Sc-1000, SC-1200 before getting one of these Pro-logix?
Right now I'm considering between the Speedcharge 1200 and Pro-Logic, so looking for some input between them, but I'm also open to others.
Already have a couple Battery Minders, and a 1.5 amp Schumacher battery companion.
Are you looking to charge or maintain?
Anyone with anything new to add? Anyone have a Schumacher SpeedCharge SC-600, Sc-1000, SC-1200 before getting one of these Pro-logix?
Right now I'm considering between the Speedcharge 1200 and Pro-Logic, so looking for some input between them, but I'm also open to others.
Already have a couple Battery Minders, and a 1.5 amp Schumacher battery companion.
Are you looking to charge or maintain?
Mainly charge but maybe short term maintaining. Something to plug in and leave for a few days without doing bad stuff. Already have some low amp battery minders and battery companions I'm satisfied with for long term maintaining.
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I know this thread is now somewhat old, but I just recently bought one of the Solar Pro-Logix battery chargers. Based upon my brief use of it to day, I like the way it functions and it's design.
With a battery going bad in one of my cars, I decided to use this as an excuse to buy this charger, hoping the the charger may rescue the battery, but also knowing that most likely I would still have to replace it.
Out of the box, I was pleased to see how the cables are stowed by wrapping them around the legs, with posts underneath for attaching the battery clamps. I also like the design and layout of the controls.
I used it first on the bad battery. The charger identified the battery as being only 64% charged. After a few hours, it had charged the battery to 87% by bedtime. When I got up in the morning, the charger had shut down and displayed an Error message. It had not been able to charge the bad battery.
So, I decided to try it on a good battery. It found the battery to be 90% charged, and quickly got it to 100%, but then spent about 3 hours "fixing" the battery, before it shut itself down.
I found this interesting. My next trial will be to run the charger again on the good battery, and see if it again takes so long to finish, once it reaches a 100% charge.
If indeed the charger is capable of fixing a battery, would there be value in putting the charger on a battery on a regular maintenance schedule, for example, at each oil change? Could doing so prolong the life of a battery, by keeping it from degrading as quickly?
Back to the bad battery, I decided to try to charge it again, since Autozone needs the battery to be fully charged to be able to test it. This time the charger said the battery was 86% charged, and within about 1/2 and hour, it had it up to 100%, and went into it's "fix" mode, with the green light saying the battery was fully charged, but flashing, to indicate that the charge cycle was not yet complete. After about 3 more hours the charger went into err mode again, indicating that the battery had a bad cell. I took the battery into Autozone the next day, and they confirmed that the battery was bad.
It makes me wonder, if I had bought this charger sooner, and had been charging the battery on a regular basis, would I have not had to have replaced this battery as early? Hard to tell. After reading the comments above by wrcsixeight, I think I'll buy a battery hydrometer, and do a few experiments.
With a battery going bad in one of my cars, I decided to use this as an excuse to buy this charger, hoping the the charger may rescue the battery, but also knowing that most likely I would still have to replace it.
Out of the box, I was pleased to see how the cables are stowed by wrapping them around the legs, with posts underneath for attaching the battery clamps. I also like the design and layout of the controls.
I used it first on the bad battery. The charger identified the battery as being only 64% charged. After a few hours, it had charged the battery to 87% by bedtime. When I got up in the morning, the charger had shut down and displayed an Error message. It had not been able to charge the bad battery.
So, I decided to try it on a good battery. It found the battery to be 90% charged, and quickly got it to 100%, but then spent about 3 hours "fixing" the battery, before it shut itself down.
I found this interesting. My next trial will be to run the charger again on the good battery, and see if it again takes so long to finish, once it reaches a 100% charge.
If indeed the charger is capable of fixing a battery, would there be value in putting the charger on a battery on a regular maintenance schedule, for example, at each oil change? Could doing so prolong the life of a battery, by keeping it from degrading as quickly?
Back to the bad battery, I decided to try to charge it again, since Autozone needs the battery to be fully charged to be able to test it. This time the charger said the battery was 86% charged, and within about 1/2 and hour, it had it up to 100%, and went into it's "fix" mode, with the green light saying the battery was fully charged, but flashing, to indicate that the charge cycle was not yet complete. After about 3 more hours the charger went into err mode again, indicating that the battery had a bad cell. I took the battery into Autozone the next day, and they confirmed that the battery was bad.
It makes me wonder, if I had bought this charger sooner, and had been charging the battery on a regular basis, would I have not had to have replaced this battery as early? Hard to tell. After reading the comments above by wrcsixeight, I think I'll buy a battery hydrometer, and do a few experiments.
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Yes I think there is great value in occasionally topping up the battery as you mentioned such as at each oil change. The car will continue to drive every day with a battery below 80% state of charge but it takes life off the battery so topping it up is a great idea.
Additionally if you read the manual to the charger you will see the reason it takes so long to finalize the charge is that when it reaches 100% it applies a load to the battery to reduce voltage and surface charge and begins charging again, so it will take a little longer to get back to full but the manual states it's okay to put the battery back into service during this time as it's fairly close to full by now.
I have a similar thread on my charger too.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3815261/1
Also check out the video review of made showing the features.
http://youtu.be/3zHFN0KrVwc
Additionally if you read the manual to the charger you will see the reason it takes so long to finalize the charge is that when it reaches 100% it applies a load to the battery to reduce voltage and surface charge and begins charging again, so it will take a little longer to get back to full but the manual states it's okay to put the battery back into service during this time as it's fairly close to full by now.
I have a similar thread on my charger too.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3815261/1
Also check out the video review of made showing the features.
http://youtu.be/3zHFN0KrVwc
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Yes I think there is great value in occasionally topping up the battery as you mentioned such as at each oil change. The car will continue to drive every day with a battery below 80% state of charge but it takes life off the battery so topping it up is a great idea.
I agree. Some chemistries are perfect, if not better, at low states of charge compared to full. Lead acid is not. It sulfates as potential drops. So a topping charge which is something that an alternator cannot do, is beneficial.
Yes I think there is great value in occasionally topping up the battery as you mentioned such as at each oil change. The car will continue to drive every day with a battery below 80% state of charge but it takes life off the battery so topping it up is a great idea.
I agree. Some chemistries are perfect, if not better, at low states of charge compared to full. Lead acid is not. It sulfates as potential drops. So a topping charge which is something that an alternator cannot do, is beneficial.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Scott_mi
Anyone with anything new to add? Anyone have a Schumacher SpeedCharge SC-600, Sc-1000, SC-1200 before getting one of these Pro-logix?
Right now I'm considering between the Speedcharge 1200 and Pro-Logic, so looking for some input between them, but I'm also open to others.
Already have a couple Battery Minders, and a 1.5 amp Schumacher battery companion.
I have a schumacher, maybe a 1200 that I got long ago.
It always concerns me. At low SOCs its OK, I like that you can read voltage or %. But when it gets full, the voltage gets way high, Ive seen 15.6-15.7V. Not for use routinely, that will cause loss of electrolyte. Thats a balancing charge to be used only when needed...
Anyone with anything new to add? Anyone have a Schumacher SpeedCharge SC-600, Sc-1000, SC-1200 before getting one of these Pro-logix?
Right now I'm considering between the Speedcharge 1200 and Pro-Logic, so looking for some input between them, but I'm also open to others.
Already have a couple Battery Minders, and a 1.5 amp Schumacher battery companion.
I have a schumacher, maybe a 1200 that I got long ago.
It always concerns me. At low SOCs its OK, I like that you can read voltage or %. But when it gets full, the voltage gets way high, Ive seen 15.6-15.7V. Not for use routinely, that will cause loss of electrolyte. Thats a balancing charge to be used only when needed...
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