I'm signing on a 2012 Toyota rav4 tonight. It has the 2.5, awd, and has 40,000 miles on it. Are there any problem areas to watch out for? The 2.5 has a timing chain instead of a belt, right? I'm trading in my 2012 scion xb which has the 2.4 2azfe in it, and I was pretty familiar with the problem areas on that, but I dont know much about the 2.5.
2012 Rav4
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The 2AR-FE (the 2.5L 4-cyl) has a timing chain, yes. I had the same engine in a 2011 Camry and it's one of the smoothest and peppiest 4-cylinders I've driven.
Seemed fairly peppy for an almost 3500lb vehicle. Hope it serves me well. Personally, I think they're not one of the best looking vehicles, but with my credit, and this dealer being one of the few willing to work with me, my options we're limited, and I needed something roomier and with awd. I figure hey, I don't have to look at the outside when I'm driving it
and I like the interior
and I like the interiorThey're as good as anything else with proper maintenance, does the dealer give any warranty?
The only issue I can see is the credit agreement, paying cash and not being in debt is always preferable
The only issue I can see is the credit agreement, paying cash and not being in debt is always preferable
I think the Rav is betting looking than the XB imo. Also a better engine than the 2.4 imo. So a nice upgrade provided it wasn't too much more.
the biggest issue is the 5-speed auto transmission "whine" noise. 20-65mph. Turn all accessories off like the radio, HVAC fan, windows up & get the ATF hot by driving at least 20 miles. Then between the speed ranges, see if you hear the whine type noise. If it makes noise & it bothers you, the fix is new mounts & if it's still not better, a new transmission. Bulletin T-SB-0130-12
Originally Posted By: afoulk
Seemed fairly peppy for an almost 3500lb vehicle.
I imagine it would be. Our CR-V weighs the same and has a 166 hp 2.4L engine, and it's plenty peppy for around town. The 2.5L in my Camry felt like a small V-6 in terms of the power it offered, and the smoothness. I was really impressed with that Toyota 2.5L engine. As much as I like Honda's K-series engine, I like Toyota's AR-series more.
Seemed fairly peppy for an almost 3500lb vehicle.
I imagine it would be. Our CR-V weighs the same and has a 166 hp 2.4L engine, and it's plenty peppy for around town. The 2.5L in my Camry felt like a small V-6 in terms of the power it offered, and the smoothness. I was really impressed with that Toyota 2.5L engine. As much as I like Honda's K-series engine, I like Toyota's AR-series more.
Originally Posted By: mehullica
the biggest issue is the 5-speed auto transmission "whine" noise. 20-65mph. Turn all accessories off like the radio, HVAC fan, windows up & get the ATF hot by driving at least 20 miles. Then between the speed ranges, see if you hear the whine type noise. If it makes noise & it bothers you, the fix is new mounts & if it's still not better, a new transmission. Bulletin T-SB-0130-12
that's with the V6 engine only FYI.
the biggest issue is the 5-speed auto transmission "whine" noise. 20-65mph. Turn all accessories off like the radio, HVAC fan, windows up & get the ATF hot by driving at least 20 miles. Then between the speed ranges, see if you hear the whine type noise. If it makes noise & it bothers you, the fix is new mounts & if it's still not better, a new transmission. Bulletin T-SB-0130-12
that's with the V6 engine only FYI.
I was gonna say, I think mine only has a 4spd auto
Originally Posted By: afoulk
I'm signing on a 2012 Toyota rav4 tonight. It has the 2.5, awd, and has 40,000 miles on it. Are there any problem areas to watch out for? The 2.5 has a timing chain instead of a belt, right? I'm trading in my 2012 scion xb which has the 2.4 2azfe in it, and I was pretty familiar with the problem areas on that, but I dont know much about the 2.5.
Change all the fluids every 50k and you'll keep that thing a long long time. I would recommend you undercoat the entire vehicle. I use rustoleum undercoating from Walmart ($5/can)and it will take about 6-8 cans.
I'm signing on a 2012 Toyota rav4 tonight. It has the 2.5, awd, and has 40,000 miles on it. Are there any problem areas to watch out for? The 2.5 has a timing chain instead of a belt, right? I'm trading in my 2012 scion xb which has the 2.4 2azfe in it, and I was pretty familiar with the problem areas on that, but I dont know much about the 2.5.
Change all the fluids every 50k and you'll keep that thing a long long time. I would recommend you undercoat the entire vehicle. I use rustoleum undercoating from Walmart ($5/can)and it will take about 6-8 cans.
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Oops. I forgot you have the 4cyl. Disregard my post
Well, picked it up last night and like it so far. Even the exterior is starting to grow in me. Only issues I've noticed so far is it has newer tires on the front of a different brand, and the rear ones are worn kinda choppy in the inside edge, indicating to me the toe might have been off at some point. I think the previous owner just replaced the two worst tires and that's why it has newer ones I the front. It drives nice and straight though, doesn't pull, and the fronts look like they have been on for a little bit, and aren't wearing funny, so I'm hoping the alignment is in spec. Rear tires do make some noise being worn the way they are, but still have at least half tread in the center, maybe more. Also, when it sits awhile, it has a rattle at start up for a split second. My first thought would normally be a faulty ADBV in the filter, but the 2.5s use a cartridge style filter. Maybe some short ocis are in order to make sure things are cleaned out good? Looking through the oil fill hole, all I see is a baffle, but its spotless.
Depending on the direction of wear on the back tires, you could swap them side-to-side to get them to quiet down. If they have sawtoothing on the inner edge, and it feels rough as you slide your hand front to back and smooth as you slide your hand forward, I'd flip 'em and let 'em wear "backwards" for a while. This kind of wear is not uncommon for cars with independent rear suspension that change toe and camber as the suspension compresses and rebounds.
The brief rattle at start-up is likely one of the cam phasers making noise before it's fully pressurized with oil. Check for a TSB on that -- Toyota or Honda had a bulletin I think for cam phaser noise. I could be remembering that wrong...but check for a bulletin anyway. It could be a warrantable repair.
The brief rattle at start-up is likely one of the cam phasers making noise before it's fully pressurized with oil. Check for a TSB on that -- Toyota or Honda had a bulletin I think for cam phaser noise. I could be remembering that wrong...but check for a bulletin anyway. It could be a warrantable repair.
I wondered that too about the tires. fronts see most of the wear, and if they never rotated them, fronts probably wouldhave needed replaced first. the rears are "cupped" on the inner edge, so switching side to side probably wouldnt help. Ill check for a bulliten on the cam phasers, but its out of factory warranty. I did purchase a 3yr 36,000mile bumper to bumper warranty though, don't know if that would cover it though. Does the noise actually do any damage? I can live with it if not.
If the Rav is Toyota certified you might be able to have the rear tires replaced for free. Since they should have caught that in the inspection.
I have a 2014 Rav 4 2wd with the 4 cylinder, and a new to us 2010 Rav 4 4wd with the 4 cylinder.
It is a very well built car.
They have the cartridge filter, I buy the cartridge and associated seals from the dealer, and run 0w20 Mobil 1 year round in the older one, and the other one gets Toyota Synthetic 0w20.
Both get about 24mpg, maybe a little less.
I am still reading the shop manual on the 2010, there are some things in there that aren't usual with cars I have owned before, such as torquing the driveshaft bolts at service intervals. I would invest in a torque wrench and do that when it advises to do so.
It is a very well built car.
They have the cartridge filter, I buy the cartridge and associated seals from the dealer, and run 0w20 Mobil 1 year round in the older one, and the other one gets Toyota Synthetic 0w20.
Both get about 24mpg, maybe a little less.
I am still reading the shop manual on the 2010, there are some things in there that aren't usual with cars I have owned before, such as torquing the driveshaft bolts at service intervals. I would invest in a torque wrench and do that when it advises to do so.
Originally Posted By: JustinH
I have a 2014 Rav 4 2wd with the 4 cylinder, and a new to us 2010 Rav 4 4wd with the 4 cylinder.
It is a very well built car.
They have the cartridge filter, I buy the cartridge and associated seals from the dealer, and run 0w20 Mobil 1 year round in the older one, and the other one gets Toyota Synthetic 0w20.
Both get about 24mpg, maybe a little less.
I am still reading the shop manual on the 2010, there are some things in there that aren't usual with cars I have owned before, such as torquing the driveshaft bolts at service intervals. I would invest in a torque wrench and do that when it advises to do so.
I have had a few Toyota 4wd vehicles and never had a driveshaft bolt get loose so on my 4Runner I put blue loctite on them. Never messed with them again. The dealers only check them for looseness. I know guys who used red loctite on them once and forget it.
I have a 2014 Rav 4 2wd with the 4 cylinder, and a new to us 2010 Rav 4 4wd with the 4 cylinder.
It is a very well built car.
They have the cartridge filter, I buy the cartridge and associated seals from the dealer, and run 0w20 Mobil 1 year round in the older one, and the other one gets Toyota Synthetic 0w20.
Both get about 24mpg, maybe a little less.
I am still reading the shop manual on the 2010, there are some things in there that aren't usual with cars I have owned before, such as torquing the driveshaft bolts at service intervals. I would invest in a torque wrench and do that when it advises to do so.
I have had a few Toyota 4wd vehicles and never had a driveshaft bolt get loose so on my 4Runner I put blue loctite on them. Never messed with them again. The dealers only check them for looseness. I know guys who used red loctite on them once and forget it.
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Toyota has always been overly cautious with their maintenance checks. Dealership I work at sells hino trucks, which toyota owns a large part of, and they want everything from hose clamp to ujoint strap torque checked every so often
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