CV axle and control arm recommendations

[t1snwrbrdr12]

What do you guys see good longevity out of for cv axles and front wheel drive front lower control arms?

Used to think a lot of moog but we use them at the postal service and they fail within months of install, although our usage im sure is considered severely abusive due to the way our drivers beat up the trucks.

Cv axles I always used to use napa but they seem to have gone downhill too.

This is for an 03 accord with 200k. In otherwise very good shape.

Thanks

 

[JHZR2]

There are some companies that only rebuild the better cv units and do not grind through the case hardening. They're the ones you want to find if the vehicle is a keeper. One outfit was from Colorado, forget their name though...

 

[eljefino]

For GM CV's I'm used to "forever" (250k+) while LCAs conk out pretty regularly at 150-175k. If I'm "lucky" the ball joints and bushings go at the same time so I don't have to futz around with partially rebuilding the unit.

 

[Olas]

Keep the OEM shafts, only replace the joints and boots with OEM stuff and only do it when you need to, ie torn boot or clicking when turning (louder at full lock).

For the arms, if you really want to be belt and braces, fit and forget about them, then the best option is to buy OEM arms and have them sandblasted then seam welded and powder coated before refitting with poly bushes. If you don't like poly bushes or don't mind rebushing the arms every few years you can use OEM bushes at the expense of handling but reduced NVH.

 

[Joel_MD]

Last year my 2003 Saab 9-5 was starting to get a bit sloppy in the suspension, so I did a complete overhaul of the front end. I'm the kind of guy who likes to replace stuff before it fails, so I can take my time getting a good price for the parts and do the work at my convenience. While the front end was apart I was thinking about replacing the CV axles with rebuilts as a preventive measure, but one of my Saab buddies said the rebuilders tend to use inferior parts. He had a rebuilt one fail and then paid big bucks to get a genuine Saab replacement. Anyway, I decided to try rebuilding the outer CV joints myself. I bought a pair of Moog CV boots that came with the proper clamps, and a special pliers to crimp the clamps. I watched a YouTube video to see how the outer joint comes off the shaft. Once it's off you just discard the old boot + clamps and clean the joint really well. I removed most of the old grease with paper towels, then soaked in kerosene to get them squeaky clean. The joints were reassembled with Red Line synthetic CV joint grease and the new boot + clamps. The first side took about 90 minutes, the second only about half that. I didn't touch the inner joints because I figure they last a lot longer, but I imagine those aren't too hard to rebuild either.

 

[zzyzzx]

Originally Posted By: Joel_MD
Last year my 2003 Saab 9-5 was starting to get a bit sloppy in the suspension, so I did a complete overhaul of the front end. I'm the kind of guy who likes to replace stuff before it fails, so I can take my time getting a good price for the parts and do the work at my convenience. While the front end was apart I was thinking about replacing the CV axles with rebuilts as a preventive measure, but one of my Saab buddies said the rebuilders tend to use inferior parts. He had a rebuilt one fail and then paid big bucks to get a genuine Saab replacement. Anyway, I decided to try rebuilding the outer CV joints myself. I bought a pair of Moog CV boots that came with the proper clamps, and a special pliers to crimp the clamps. I watched a YouTube video to see how the outer joint comes off the shaft. Once it's off you just discard the old boot + clamps and clean the joint really well. I removed most of the old grease with paper towels, then soaked in kerosene to get them squeaky clean. The joints were reassembled with Red Line synthetic CV joint grease and the new boot + clamps. The first side took about 90 minutes, the second only about half that. I didn't touch the inner joints because I figure they last a lot longer, but I imagine those aren't too hard to rebuild either.


You didn't rebuild them, you regreased them.

 

[The Critic]

Accord lower arms from that generation should not require complete replacement unless they were bent. You can get the bushings (the compliance one and the other one) from the dealer for around $35. Just press them in/out with your press or using one of those 9circle branded tools.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

The best CV axles are Raxles, if they still make them for your car.

The best control arms are either OEM or Deeza.

 

[stephen9666]

Originally Posted By: zzyzzx


You didn't rebuild them, you regreased them.


He replaced the boot, which is basically the only thing that causes most joints to fail. Keeping the boots from being ruptured for long periods will keep most joints running for the life of the vehicle.

I'm a big proponent of keeping and re-booting OE axles as so many aftermarket ones are junk and the good ones aren't cheap.

 

[pb]

Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
The best CV axles are Raxles, if they still make them for your car.


+1
unfortunately i think they are VW/audi exclusive now. at least last time i spoke to them 12 months ago.

for my ford i went rockauto with cardone? the pricier ones. and i had in hand 2 or 3 of each side and picked the best one- quality control is all over the place.

 

[Skittles]

Originally Posted By: t1snwrbrdr12
What do you guys see good longevity out of for cv axles and front wheel drive front lower control arms?

Used to think a lot of moog but we use them at the postal service and they fail within months of install, although our usage im sure is considered severely abusive due to the way our drivers beat up the trucks.

Cv axles I always used to use napa but they seem to have gone downhill too.

This is for an 03 accord with 200k. In otherwise very good shape.

Thanks


Moog is hit and miss anymore. I get some parts that are good quality and some that are cheap Chinese parts.

 

[DeepFriar]

+2 for Raxles. I've dealt with Marty there since the 90's. I had replaced 3 halfshaft assemblies in hard use, including one of his. But then he changed to a German boot rubber and synthetic grease. The ones I got from him in the early 2000's lasted till last year. Would've lasted longer except for the cheap shaft passenger side carrier bearing. He uses all new parts.

 

[DeepFriar]

Originally Posted By: Skittles
Originally Posted By: t1snwrbrdr12
What do you guys see good longevity out of for cv axles and front wheel drive front lower control arms?

Used to think a lot of moog but we use them at the postal service and they fail within months of install, although our usage im sure is considered severely abusive due to the way our drivers beat up the trucks.

Cv axles I always used to use napa but they seem to have gone downhill too.

This is for an 03 accord with 200k. In otherwise very good shape.

Thanks


Moog is hit and miss anymore. I get some parts that are good quality and some that are cheap Chinese parts.


Because my wife won't let go of our (her) Ranier I renewed the whole suspension last year. I used Moog throughout on recommendation of my independent shop. He told me not to use their "R" line, stick with Premium line and Problem Solver line. It rides like new, literally, but only time will tell for sure.

 

[PandaBear]

For Honda I think I'd trust OEM Honda reman, for my Integra they were around $170 each side.

Control arm is probably not as strict, but OEM would always be nice, or Deeza?

 

[buck91]

I'm running a reman from Autozone on the driver side of the Aurora. Put about 1000-2000 miles per month on the car, so it'll be interesting to see how it holds up. Overall, the unit felt like a decent piece and I noticed the specs noted a high moly grease in the joints (though that is expected).

Can't say it'll last forever but the price was right, with lifetime warranty and the job isn't as hard as some say.

 

[DeepFriar]

For you Honda guys....I would bring to your attention, if you don't know about it already, a website that is not all about Hondas but has a great deal of information about them from the ground up. I've been pretty much hanging on the words of Mike Kojima since the mid-90's. As knowledgeable and nice a guy as you are ever likely to find. I hope you might find it enjoyable. I'm including a link to a current article.

http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/I...inder-Head.aspx

 

[t1snwrbrdr12]

Thanks for the input. Raxles does my car but they're pretty steep and shipping on top of that isn't cheap either.

Online Honda prices are pretty ridiculous reman or new.

I have loose cv joints I believe. Trying to solve a vibration on acceleration. Pretty widespread problem and fix is the cv joints as per identifix and resources I've checked. I just hate to put a cheap lifetime axle in it and have to replace it every year for noise or boots tearing. That's how it happened with the last set of napa axles I used.

As for the control arms, I just need the compliance bushings but at 200k I figured I'd do the whole arm and save the headache of pressing bushings. I'll look into it more though. I know there's only the arm and three bushings so not a whole lot to go wrong with it.

 

[t1snwrbrdr12]

Haven't heard of this 9circle tools but I looked it up. Looks pretty nice. Don't think it'd pay off to invest in them for one job though. I'll find a way to get the bushings out and in if I go that route. Do people commonly have problems with multiple bushings in this generation accord?

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: t1snwrbrdr12
Haven't heard of this 9circle tools but I looked it up. Looks pretty nice. Don't think it'd pay off to invest in them for one job though. I'll find a way to get the bushings out and in if I go that route. Do people commonly have problems with multiple bushings in this generation accord?


Usually the compliance bushing is the only one that really wears out. Occasionally you'll see the shock bushing wear on very high mileage cars.

There's no reason to replace the entire arm unless it is bent. The compliance bushings on this car are a really really easy job if you buy the 9circle or sp products tool - I did the ones on my girlfriend's car in 1 hour.

BTW - you don't even need to remove the arm to do the compliance bushing. Just unbolt the forward bushing and remove the bolt for the rear bushing. Pry the arm out just enough to clear, and then wedge a block of wood in-between the arm and the chassis. Press the bushing in/out using the tool, then thread both bolts in. Use your floor jack to load the suspension to the normal ride height, then torque both bolts.

 

[t1snwrbrdr12]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: t1snwrbrdr12
Haven't heard of this 9circle tools but I looked it up. Looks pretty nice. Don't think it'd pay off to invest in them for one job though. I'll find a way to get the bushings out and in if I go that route. Do people commonly have problems with multiple bushings in this generation accord?


Usually the compliance bushing is the only one that really wears out. Occasionally you'll see the shock bushing wear on very high mileage cars.

There's no reason to replace the entire arm unless it is bent. The compliance bushings on this car are a really really easy job if you buy the 9circle or sp products tool - I did the ones on my girlfriend's car in 1 hour.

BTW - you don't even need to remove the arm to do the compliance bushing. Just unbolt the forward bushing and remove the bolt for the rear bushing. Pry the arm out just enough to clear, and then wedge a block of wood in-between the arm and the chassis. Press the bushing in/out using the tool, then thread both bolts in. Use your floor jack to load the suspension to the normal ride height, then torque both bolts.


That's what I'm reading from the tools description. Maybe I'll get lucky and find one local to borrow or one used to buy cheap.