Electrolysis in wrangler

[Skiman26]

I have a jeep wrangler that has an issue with electrolysis. Have tried to hunt down the problem but can't seem to find it so I am going to a sacrificial anode type cap. My question is. Is there one coolant that is better than others at protecting aluminum radiators and keeping electrolysis at bay? I have been using standard green coolant 50/50 mix. In my diesel I use Cat EC-1 coolant would this be better?

 

[tomcat27]

what year and engine? if it has aluminum components I would switch to a HOAT coolant. Zerex G05, for instance

 

[Skiman26]

It's a 2000 wrangler 4.0 inline 6
It has an after market all aluminum radiator.

 

[Chris142]

Did the cooling system get rusty at one time? If it did I have not figured out how to stop electrolysis. Adding zinc may help.

 

[Skid]

Zinc would cause aluminum to corrode faster. Magnesium might work, however. http://hilaroad.com/camp/projects/lemon/electric_potential.html

 

[Skiman26]

I don't think it's ever been rusty and has been flushed a lot

 

[roadrunner1]

Its the aftermarket aluminum radiator causing the problem, try grounding it to the frame/engine to see if it helps.

 

[CT8]

Is there a bad or missing electric ground? It could be the radiator. Type of coolant maybe.Have you measured the milli volts?

 

[SHOZ]

You should make sure the radiator is grounded to the block with minimal ohms resistance.

 

[Chris142]

I have been adding zinc to problem cars. seems to work.

 

[meep]

grounding--- it may be the other way .. you may NOT want the radiator grounded, as that's the path used for the electrons to flow-- it may need to actually be isolated from all ground/electrical contact, if possible.

 

[SHOZ]

If the coolant has dissolved minerals in it then it grounds that way. That is what the millivolt check is good for, determining the amount of mineral content in relation to millivolts.

A good reason to use distilled water when you fill.

But I guess I need to go see if any of my cars radiators are grounded. Only one has the all aluminum radiator. The other has the plastic tank style that would not be grounded.

 

[Skiman26]

I was going to ground it then studied up and found that could possibly wake it worse ? Is changing coolant every 4 months the answer. I hope not

 

[Greasymechtech]

http://www.no-rosion.com/norosioncoolant.htm

Drain the radiator, engine block, oveflow/recovery, and refill with any 50:50 coolant you want. Dose no-rosion. Follow No-rosion yearly redosing.

Alternatives to norosion:
http://www.rmi25.com/product
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74&pcid=10
http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-201/Kool-It+Supreme+Coolant+Treatment
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/antifreeze/dominator-coolant-boost/
http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/wp-content/uploads/PS_Purple_Ice.pdf
https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/cooling-system/bg-universal-super-cooL

Use distilled deionized water if you mix your own.

Nothing wrong with any store brand antifreeze. Just change it out completely every 2-4 years depending on mileage.

http://prestone.com/corguard_inhibitor_technology
http://www.valvoline.com/our-products/antifreeze-products/g-05-antifreeze-coolant
http://www.valvoline.com/our-products/antifreeze-products/maxlife-antifreeze-coolant
http://www.recochem.com/products/category/oem_premium_coolants
http://beckfluids.com/products/antifreeze-coolant/

 

[meep]

Originally Posted By: SHOZ
If the coolant has dissolved minerals in it then it grounds that way. That is what the millivolt check is good for, determining the amount of mineral content in relation to millivolts.

A good reason to use distilled water when you fill.

But I guess I need to go see if any of my cars radiators are grounded. Only one has the all aluminum radiator. The other has the plastic tank style that would not be grounded.


Just additional info/thinking: The electrolysis/corrosion actually needs both-- the full circuit, to occur. It is exactly that-- a full circuit. Break apart the circuit and the reaction stops. In this case, vehicle ground would be one "wire" and the minerals through the coolant the other. due to different attraction properties between the radiator and engine, ions would pull material from one, and plate them to the other, traveling through the coolant (electrolyte, as it becomes in this case), with the vehicle ground being the return path for electrons. This is the exact same principle in how a battery works.

 

[SHOZ]

If the engine is aluminum and the radiator is aluminum the difference in potential is minimal.