What is the best oil for my car?

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In a car that has Oil Monitor, using full syn, the day it complets one year the oil will be automaticaly FUBARded (?!) ... If I don't do many cold starts, short trips or idling and the oil has say, less than 7-8k 50%+highway miles I'd go by the 10k mileage beyond the 1 year mark, if out of warranty of course. But that's just me.
 
Stay with the M1EP at 5,000 miles if that gives you peace of mind.

Compared to the cost for a good dino oil, your spending just an extra $10 per change to go first class while still observing the short OCI's.

If it were my Honda, I'd be running whatever high quality synthetic (PP, Castrol Edge, or M1) I could buy on sale @ your 5,000 mile OCI and be happy.
 
Originally Posted By: 2civics
I idle while waiting in line to pick up my son from school. Was told stopping the car and restarting it was harder on the engine than letting it run for 15- 20 minutes.
I don't run the air during this time. In the winter I do keep the heat running, of course.

Bad advice. shut off the car!
smile.gif
I shut off my car at 1.5Min lights.
 
I'd go with one year oil changes since you only drive 6k/year.

I'm stick to 6k mile OCI's for my Accord.
 
M1ep is the wrong oil for a short term OCI - IT is not "BEST" in your circumstance; you may well be doing more harm than good.

Use wally's Supertech Syn for 6K or so and pay attention to trans, brakes, suspension and interior bits.
 
Originally Posted By: SilverC6
Stay with the M1EP at 5,000 miles if that gives you peace of mind.

Compared to the cost for a good dino oil, your spending just an extra $10 per change to go first class while still observing the short OCI's.

If it were my Honda, I'd be running whatever high quality synthetic (PP, Castrol Edge, or M1) I could buy on sale @ your 5,000 mile OCI and be happy.


Thanks for the reply. Ten dollars is really the difference twice a year for what I am using. You hit it on the head.
 
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
M1ep is the wrong oil for a short term OCI - IT is not "BEST" in your circumstance; you may well be doing more harm than good.

Use wally's Supertech Syn for 6K or so and pay attention to trans, brakes, suspension and interior bits.


More harm than good?
 
[/quote]
Bad advice. shut off the car!
smile.gif
I shut off my car at 1.5Min lights. [/quote]

Can you explain further? What am I hurting by running it 20 minutes vs. shutting it off and restarting it? Thanks for the help.
 
I'll idle my Chevy 5.3 for 30min just to take a nap with the AC on or idle for an hour while doing road maintenance on the ranch. As long as you put some highway miles after its no big deal. Blackstone recommended a 16k oci on my last sample. I'd go with any name brand 0w20 and 10k or one year with your car.
 
Turning off your engine for 20min will in no shape,form,or fashion harm it in the least bit. Turn it off for that 20min and save your gas.
 
Originally Posted By: 2civics
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
M1ep is the wrong oil for a short term OCI - IT is not "BEST" in your circumstance; you may well be doing more harm than good.

Use wally's Supertech Syn for 6K or so and pay attention to trans, brakes, suspension and interior bits.


More harm than good?


Not that I could ever see...

As far as idling, my vehicles serve me... Gas consumption is of no concern... To me it's same being home and turning up the heat when cold, or down the AC when I'm too warm...

Now if I was having to wait 20 minutes EVERY day, if possible, I'd adjust my time of arrival...
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Leo99
Why are you idling your car for 20 minutes? Turn it off.

Probably sitting in the car waiting for the kid while it's hot (cold) outside, so he wants to be able to run A/C (heat).


Or "her", I'm guessing.
 
Originally Posted By: 2civics
[/quote]
Bad advice. shut off the car!
smile.gif
I shut off my car at 1.5Min lights.


Can you explain further? What am I hurting by running it 20 minutes vs. shutting it off and restarting it? Thanks for the help. [/quote]

Your wallet is about all. Neither is really going to affect anything - if the engine is already up to temperature nothing bad will happen other than burning gas. Modern cars run lean.
 
LOL, M1 EP @5k intervals.

8k per year, any brand dino will do that. Everything else will fall apart in that car before the engine running on-sale dino at OLM intervals.
 
Well thank you to everyone who was constructive in their responses. You have been a big help.
wink.gif
 
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To the OP:

If you want to provide the best protection for your engine you could use Mobil 1 EP with a Mobil 1 oil filter and do 10K oil changes.
 
OP, my van runs 10k mile OCI's with $9.99 Valvoline conventional. It runs strong, burns no oil, and will outlast everything else on the van.

I have seen engines on these vans go 200k + miles and get junked because the chassis has rusted, the transmissions won't shift anymore, the strut mount points are shot, etc, etc.

9 times out of 10 the engine, and your oil choice, is not what you need to worry about if you want to run the car to it's grave.

If my Civic didn't call for 0w20 it would get the same 5w20 conventional treatment that the van is getting.
 
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