HEELP!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Sep 24, 2014
Messages
41
Location
New Zealand
I recently purchased a 2000 Legacy with less than 100,000miles. Ej20 non-turbo.
So tonight, my mate was driving the car and we went to have food. Around one hour. We came back out, it was kinda cold (say 40F) and we try to start it, but then the revs slowly go down until the engine stops. Try to start again, revs go to about 1500rpm then go down again to zero.

Tried about 4-5 times then eventually got a steady idle about 6-700rpm. We start driving home and
the second we begin to approach a stop sign (car still moving, 2nd gear) the engine stalls again.
Managed to get home, car settled down for like 10 minutes. Then went for a drive and had no problems whatsoever. The clutch seems to be allright, no slipping at all.
 
Sounds like an air leak in the intake bellows after the MAF sensor, if so equipped.
 
Originally Posted By: tcp71
Sticky idle air control valve, if so equipped.


This, most likely, and/or dirty throttle body.
 
UPDATE: So today, I drove the car around as per usual, however prior to starting up each time, I would press the gas pedal a couple times. Started, idled and drove no problem. Later tonight I tried to see if pressing the gas pedal prior to starting made a difference and yes the engine started then stalled...Maybe thats a clue for something? (I wouldn't have a clue, I try to think that I know a bit about cars.. but in actual fact, i dont :p)
 
Pressing the gas pedal before starting should make no difference with a fuel injected engine unless there may be problem with the TPS (throttle position sensor). If it's dirty inside its possible moving it back and forth cleaned it a little.

Its unlikely because it should throw a code if malfunctions, as other have posted clean the idle air control solenoid and throttle body. The idle air control is on top of the throttle body held with 2 screws and a connector, remove it and spray the business end with carb or throttle body cleaner.
You may need a new gasket if it tears otherwise you can usually get away with reusing the old one.

The TPS is a known trouble maker on these but they usually cause an erratic high/low idle and sometimes stalling. It wouldn’t hurt to take that off and clean it as well.
Open the throttle slowly by hand, if it feels like its binding a little its a good sign the TPS is on the way out but not throwing a code yet.
 
Took it to a mechanic,he couldn't find any codes either.
Spark plugs due so will do those. He says just carbon buildup and should be fine once everything is cleaned
 
Maybe his throttle plate is sticking so bad its choking the air flow at start up?
21.gif
 
Trav is right about the TPS, on a lot of them if they see "zero percent" throttle the computer decides it will run the idle speed controller, but "one percent" and the computer says, hands off. Since 1% is plausible, no codes. You could also be manually decrusting the throttle body, I would go in there with carb cleaner and a rag if you have not already done so. I'd also run it and put your finger over the idle air bypass, you should feel a strong vacuum and it should almost stall. If it doesn't, bump up the base throttle set screw to 500 RPM or so.

Then, rapidly remove your thumb from the idle bypass and the idle should jump, overshoot, and quickly correct. If it has MAF, running without the intake tube will tick it off, so you may have to also unplug the MAF to force a failsafe so it can idle so you can muck with it.
wink.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top