Looking at a 2012 Tundra with the 4.6L V8, 36k miles, regular service at a Toyota dealership. Truck looks very clean. Any particular problems with this engine I would need to look for, now or in the future? This will probably be the last PU in my lifetime, so I hope to be keeping it at least 10 years, and I average 18-20K miles a year, much of it highway. I have been using M1 for the past 10 years or so and see no real reason to change.
Toyota Tundra 4.6L ?
- Thread starter Moondawg
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Nice Toyota Truck....go for it!
The 5.7 can have cam tower leaks; not sure if the 4.6 was prone or not. Water pumps, front diffs, and possibly wheel bearings are weak spots, along with soft paint. Rust should not be an issue diwn there, but I would still check. And spray oil, it is a Toyota after all.
The Air Injection Pump is a big debacle. I forget if 2012 had that extended to 150k. There are kits to bypass, the stupid thing only does it bit at startup.
Oil changes can be a pain. To drain oil is ok, but to do the filter it is five(?) bolts to drop the skidplate. And you need a tool for the filter; the dealer and other places have it for $15-25 or so. It is a paper element, and there is a way to drain the housing before removing--but I do not bother doing that.
Is it a tow model? Should have the tow button on the column shifter. The rear gears are slightly deeper, and I think it makes a difference--I kinda wish I had even deeper gears on mine.
The trans lacks a dipstick, and is a pain to check fluid level on. But the ATF is cheap enough, many use Maxlife and are content.
I find cruise to be broken. It will lose speed on a hill, downshift twice, then hunt. On flat ground it is ok. Wiper blades are expensive.
As for oil, cannot comment, as I run TGMO. But I am sure Almost anything would be fine.
The Air Injection Pump is a big debacle. I forget if 2012 had that extended to 150k. There are kits to bypass, the stupid thing only does it bit at startup.
Oil changes can be a pain. To drain oil is ok, but to do the filter it is five(?) bolts to drop the skidplate. And you need a tool for the filter; the dealer and other places have it for $15-25 or so. It is a paper element, and there is a way to drain the housing before removing--but I do not bother doing that.
Is it a tow model? Should have the tow button on the column shifter. The rear gears are slightly deeper, and I think it makes a difference--I kinda wish I had even deeper gears on mine.
The trans lacks a dipstick, and is a pain to check fluid level on. But the ATF is cheap enough, many use Maxlife and are content.
I find cruise to be broken. It will lose speed on a hill, downshift twice, then hunt. On flat ground it is ok. Wiper blades are expensive.
As for oil, cannot comment, as I run TGMO. But I am sure Almost anything would be fine.
Forgot to mention, payload is pretty low. My double cab 4x4 is only 1,255lb. Sufficient for my needs, but hardly class leading.
Mpg is low too. My two year average is all of 19mpg, and much of that was spent at 60mph in the slow lane.
Traction control / VSC is very intrusive. I turn mine off in snow, otherwise it won't move. No limited slip / locker either. Lots of throttle tip-in IMO, make driving in snow tricky.
Mpg is low too. My two year average is all of 19mpg, and much of that was spent at 60mph in the slow lane.
Traction control / VSC is very intrusive. I turn mine off in snow, otherwise it won't move. No limited slip / locker either. Lots of throttle tip-in IMO, make driving in snow tricky.
Originally Posted By: supton
The 5.7 can have cam tower leaks; not sure if the 4.6 was prone or not. Water pumps, front diffs, and possibly wheel bearings are weak spots, along with soft paint. Rust should not be an issue diwn there, but I would still check. And spray oil, it is a Toyota after all.
The Air Injection Pump is a big debacle. I forget if 2012 had that extended to 150k. There are kits to bypass, the stupid thing only does it bit at startup.
Oil changes can be a pain. To drain oil is ok, but to do the filter it is five(?) bolts to drop the skidplate. And you need a tool for the filter; the dealer and other places have it for $15-25 or so. It is a paper element, and there is a way to drain the housing before removing--but I do not bother doing that.
Is it a tow model? Should have the tow button on the column shifter. The rear gears are slightly deeper, and I think it makes a difference--I kinda wish I had even deeper gears on mine.
The trans lacks a dipstick, and is a pain to check fluid level on. But the ATF is cheap enough, many use Maxlife and are content.
I find cruise to be broken. It will lose speed on a hill, downshift twice, then hunt. On flat ground it is ok. Wiper blades are expensive.
As for oil, cannot comment, as I run TGMO. But I am sure Almost anything would be fine.
Try ordering your wiper blades from Sparks Toyota in Myrtle Beach, SC. I just had to replace the factory blades on my 2011 Tundra and ordered the Toyota Sightline OEM's. They were $36 shipped for the set and I had them in two days.
I almost went with the 4.6L but opted for the 5.7 Double Cab 4wd with the TRD off road package and towing package. It seemed to be a better, heavier built truck than what the competition had at the time. Personally, I would not have been happy with the smaller engine.
The 5.7 can have cam tower leaks; not sure if the 4.6 was prone or not. Water pumps, front diffs, and possibly wheel bearings are weak spots, along with soft paint. Rust should not be an issue diwn there, but I would still check. And spray oil, it is a Toyota after all.
The Air Injection Pump is a big debacle. I forget if 2012 had that extended to 150k. There are kits to bypass, the stupid thing only does it bit at startup.
Oil changes can be a pain. To drain oil is ok, but to do the filter it is five(?) bolts to drop the skidplate. And you need a tool for the filter; the dealer and other places have it for $15-25 or so. It is a paper element, and there is a way to drain the housing before removing--but I do not bother doing that.
Is it a tow model? Should have the tow button on the column shifter. The rear gears are slightly deeper, and I think it makes a difference--I kinda wish I had even deeper gears on mine.
The trans lacks a dipstick, and is a pain to check fluid level on. But the ATF is cheap enough, many use Maxlife and are content.
I find cruise to be broken. It will lose speed on a hill, downshift twice, then hunt. On flat ground it is ok. Wiper blades are expensive.
As for oil, cannot comment, as I run TGMO. But I am sure Almost anything would be fine.
Try ordering your wiper blades from Sparks Toyota in Myrtle Beach, SC. I just had to replace the factory blades on my 2011 Tundra and ordered the Toyota Sightline OEM's. They were $36 shipped for the set and I had them in two days.
I almost went with the 4.6L but opted for the 5.7 Double Cab 4wd with the TRD off road package and towing package. It seemed to be a better, heavier built truck than what the competition had at the time. Personally, I would not have been happy with the smaller engine.
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