Buick Century bad fuel pump?

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Having problems with the car in my signature. Car won't start . Drove fine all day, parked for 10 minutes and then I get the no start. The starter is cranking very good, plenty of power just not catching.

I let it sit a few hours and it will start for a few seconds and stumble hard and shut off. Pressing the gas all the way to the floor when running for those few seconds have no effect.

Only codes are an old P0420 which hasn't changed in years, been running fine with it forever. I even cleared the code and it didn't make a difference.

I took a video after it sat... Guessing it's just a bad fuel pump?

https://youtu.be/HqR795i_N54
 
Did you check for spark?
Is there an alarm or immobiliser that might be acting out?
To rule out the pump, you should hear it prime when you turn the ignition on. If the car is well insulated from noise or if you're deaf then pull a line off the fuel rail and have an assistant crank it over - you'll soon know wether you've got fuel..
 
Haven't checked spark yet, but i don't think the VATS is acting up, since i don't have any warning on the dash, as i've seen it before and know where to look.

If it is the fuel pump by some miracle there is an access door! So i might actually be able to do it myself...Gas tank is pretty full though, about 12 gallons outa 17 in it i estimate.
 
Check for spark, if you have spark try banging on the gas tank with a rubber mallet and see if it starts. You can also disconnect the fuel line from the rail and check, but I found kicking the fuel tank or banging it with a rubber mallet got the car to start with a bad fuel pump. That was my hill billy way of checking a fuel pump fast.
 
Start by unplugging the MAF sensor and see if it starts, if it does and runs reasonable well that probably the problem.
Get or rent a fuel pressure tester, connect it to the schrader valve on the fuel rail, the pressure should be 52-59 psi KOEO.

Check the fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if no pressure. There is an access panel to get at the pump from inside the trunk.
Post your finding and we can go from there.

Edit: IIRC the Schrader valve is somewhere behind the PS pump.
 
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Originally Posted By: Trav
Start by unplugging the MAF sensor and see if it starts, if it does and runs reasonable well that probably the problem.
Get or rent a fuel pressure tester, connect it to the schrader valve on the fuel rail, the pressure should be 52-59 psi KOEO.

Check the fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if no pressure. There is an access panel to get at the pump from inside the trunk.
Post your finding and we can go from there.


Agreed... With gas cap removed you should be able to hear the pump while cranking, of course that assumes it's actually running... Most fuel pump failures are sudden, at least that's when most noticable...
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I've replaced probably half dozen in T-Bird Turbo Coupes that were low on output, couldn't build enough pressure under boost...
 
Runs a little too long to be VATS but the fix, leaving your key on for ten minutes, is easy enough. Try having an assistant spray starter fluid down the intake?
 
I tried unplugging the MAF sensor and it does the same exact thing, no change.


I'd like to get a fuel pressure tester but cash is very tight and I also am having big issues with transportation help, so even getting a ride to the parts store will be tough except maybe on Sunday.

If it is the fuel pump I wouldn't have money to fix it until next Thursday or later...

Also no assistant available currently either.

Now that I think back it didn't die suddenly, over the past year or so sometimes when it was hot started it would take a few tries of the key to start but ran perfect after it started. .. Funny I thought it was just a going bad MAF sensor, but I guess I just ruled that out.
 
My brother had a 99' Century, one day I drove it it ran just like that. For some reason it blew the PCV valve out and blew off the big vacuum hose for the brake booster. Ran fine after putting the hoses back on. Check for vacuum leaks and disconnect the fuel filter underneath, then turn the key and see if it shoots out fuel good.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
My brother had a 99' Century, one day I drove it it ran just like that. For some reason it blew the PCV valve out and blew off the big vacuum hose for the brake booster. Ran fine after putting the hoses back on. Check for vacuum leaks and disconnect the fuel filter underneath, then turn the key and see if it shoots out fuel good.


Thanks for posting I gave a quick check under the hood and didn't see anything weird, I'll give a closer look at the hoses after work tonight.

I'm a little worried about just pulling the filter and running it though, although I'm pretty sure that it the fuel pump...if I'm right I guess it wouldn't spray much enough to worry about the mess?
 
Push the schrader valve on the fuel rail in with a small screwdriver. You'll either get a nice spray or a dribble. Wear goggles.
 
I was just outside trying to start it. Being night time it's actually quiet enough to listen for the pump when I key on. It's making a noticeable slow groan that I haven't heard before. I am fairly sure it's the pump now.


What pump should I buy? I see ac delco rebuild kits on eBay for $50 that come with new pump, strainers and hose.

I also sent off brand re build kits for $30.

Full pump with sending units and updated wiring harness are expensive about $200 for Delphi on Amazon. Prices from like $70-200 on Rockauto for full pumps.

Spectra $107.. Bosch or Airtex $137

Anyone know how easy it is to us the rebuild kits on these pumps?
 
Agreed, perform some tests... It's foolish to assume there is a fuel pump issue unless at least a couple checks have been made for pressure and spark... If it's building enough pressure that fuel spirits out of the Schrader valve on fuel line/rail, it should at least run poorly...

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
image_13661.jpg


image_20533.jpg
 
If your fuel gauge is working you don’t need the whole unit just the pump. Get the ACDelco Fuel Pump Module Repair Kit BGV00252 19239668 for $43 and just replace the pump.
The Delco pump quality is decent.

http://fuel-pump.dvautoparts.com/discoun...-w-miiqknrjlrlm

Originally Posted By: TFB1
Agreed, perform some tests... It's foolish to assume there is a fuel pump issue unless at least a couple checks have been made for pressure and spark... If it's building enough pressure that fuel spirits out of the Schrader valve on fuel line/rail, it should at least run poorly...


Yes, correct diagnosis is the key to a successful repair.
 
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The fuel pump making weird noises doesn't quality as a good diagnosis? It's also staying on longer than it used to when key on, I'm pretty sure I'm hearing it struggle to build pressure.

I tried pounding on the access door to see if it would start but it didn't make a difference.
 
Rebuilding the pump isn't hard, it's actually kinda fun.

Getting the pump plus sender out of the tank is actually worse. The quick connects will be full of sand, and the lock ring will be a rusty mess. Nothing you can't get loose with a hammer and flat screwdriver though. There's a risk that the sender pipes (about five of them) will be rusty junk that snap when you look at them wrong, and the sender usually costs more than the pump.
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I put the cheapest ghetto pump motor in my firebird and it did just fine.
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