How to remove rear drums 07 Focus sedan

Lolvoguy · Jul 6, 2015

Thanks for the assistance guys,

My 07 Focus has a persistent squeak when releasing the brake pedal. I recall this same issue with my 97 Escort that also had rear drums. The problem was from the rear shoes dragging on the backing plate when the pedal was released.

Today I took the car into a nearby shop to have them grease the contact points. Sure enough, they called me shortly after dropping the car off to say that they were unable to remove the drums, fearing that they'd damage the wheel bearings in the process.

So what's the best way to effectively remove them? Heat? Or should I just pony up the extra cash for rear bearings and drums (while I'm at it) and just be done with it?

Your assistance is appreciated

NHGUY · Jul 6, 2015

Keep in mind,anytime you remove the drum/bearing you need to replace the spindle nut.They are special.

BurrWinder · Jul 6, 2015

They should be able to be backed off somewhat (brake shoe wise) and then be removed.. it shouldn't be sticking on the bearing unless it is starting to seize on the spindle. Not sure how yours has failed, but either way it obviously needs to come off.

Originally Posted By: NHGUY
Keep in mind,anytime you remove the drum/bearing you need to replace the spindle nut.They are special.

Yes, true to a point. These nuts can often be taken off, brakes inspected, and be tightened up properly for bearing preload and THEN be restaked to prevent loosening. If they have been on/off too many times there will not be enough metal in the staking area of the nut and then DO need to be replaced for them to be safely retained. I know the OEM claims they are throw away ANYTIME THEY ARE REMOVED but this is the reasoning behind it... for them to have no safety liability by telling you otherwise...

BurrWinder

Cardenio327 · Jul 6, 2015

Originally Posted By: BurrWinder
They should be able to be backed off somewhat (brake shoe wise) and then be removed.. it shouldn't be sticking on the bearing unless it is starting to seize on the spindle. Not sure how yours has failed, but either way it obviously needs to come off.

Originally Posted By: NHGUY
Keep in mind,anytime you remove the drum/bearing you need to replace the spindle nut.They are special.

Yes, true to a point. These nuts can often be taken off, brakes inspected, and be tightened up properly for bearing preload and THEN be restaked to prevent loosening. If they have been on/off too many times there will not be enough metal in the staking area of the nut and then DO need to be replaced for them to be safely retained. I know the OEM claims they are throw away ANYTIME THEY ARE REMOVED but this is the reasoning behind it... for them to have no safety liability by telling you otherwise...

BurrWinder

The rear spindle nut on a Focus is especially hateful. It consists of three super thin nuts combined together in a cage.

Replace with new every time or find some with the same thread for some other car that are Nylock or some other type of self lockers. You don't want the kind that can be staked or the kind that uses a cotter key, they won't work.

In England on their beloved Fiestas they undo the nuts that hold the backing plate onto the suspension when they do the rear brakes to avoid messing with that hateful nut.

slacktide_bitog · Jul 6, 2015

I hate drums

B20z · Jul 6, 2015

Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
I hate drums

Absurd. I've had way less trouble/noise from drums than discs on all vehicles so-equipped. More work when they need service, perhaps but some of you guys need to get a service manual and a grip.

To the OP... I'd be concerned that the shop was unable to remove the drums. Even in severe rust areas it's not usually horrible unless they were terribly neglected. Penetrating oil, removal bolts (if so equipped), heat and hammer as needed. Maybe try another shop.

hansj3 · Jul 6, 2015

Originally Posted By: B20z
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
I hate drums

Absurd. I've had way less trouble/noise from drums than discs on all vehicles so-equipped. More work when they need service, perhaps but some of you guys need to get a service manual and a grip.

To the OP... I'd be concerned that the shop was unable to remove the drums. Even in severe rust areas it's not usually horrible unless they were terribly neglected. Penetrating oil, removal bolts (if so equipped), heat and hammer as needed. Maybe try another shop.

I call absurdity on your absurd. Maybe you have not been stuck out late trying to slap shoes back on with all those small parts. I will give you longevity, but they pack with mud, fill with brake dust, are noisy, there are twice the failure points on the hydraulic end of it. From a NVH standpoint they suck. From a reliability they have more fault points, and because of the longevity of it they get neglected and seized. the adjusters sometimes sieze and the only way to fix em is to rip it out

At my shop it is standard operating procedure to warn about stuck drums. A torch can cause brittleness, and hard spots, and some imports have thin drums and will crack before breaking free. I live in a severe rust area and its horrable. CYA is the rule of the day

Lolvoguy · Jul 6, 2015

thanks for the replies guys.

I usually do small repairs and adjustments like this myself with common hand tools and a god jack.

Boy am I glad I didn't waste my time with attempting this repair myself!

B20z · Jul 6, 2015

Originally Posted By: hansj3

I call absurdity on your absurd. Maybe you have not been stuck out late trying to slap shoes back on with all those small parts.

Plan ahead, be prepared. Brakes aren't something anyone should be slapping back together anyway. A proper caliper relube/rebuild should take a good amount of time as well and you usually have to do it far more often.

Originally Posted By: hansj3
I will give you longevity, but they pack with mud, fill with brake dust, are noisy, there are twice the failure points on the hydraulic end of it.

Where's the mud coming from? Unless the drum or backing plate is cracked there shouldn't be much of anything besides a ton of brake dust when you crack it open. The dust is designed to be there and doesn't hurt anything unless, once again, the system is abused or neglected. I hear way more screeching discs than drums out and about and noise has never been a problem for me with drums. Most any brake system can squeal like a pig if mistreated (discs with used up pads, for instance).

Originally Posted By: hansj3
From a NVH standpoint they suck. From a reliability they have more fault points, and because of the longevity of it they get neglected and seized. the adjusters sometimes sieze and the only way to fix em is to rip it out

At my shop it is standard operating procedure to warn about stuck drums. A torch can cause brittleness, and hard spots, and some imports have thin drums and will crack before breaking free. I live in a severe rust area and its horrable. CYA is the rule of the day

Drums do what they are supposed to, with I'd say 1/3 the maintenance than comparable discs if you treat them right. The braking surface is protected from the elements and the parts are usually cheap as [censored]. I just replaced both rear brake cylinders on the Vibe at $20 total. Reason? Bleeder screw broke on one (happens with calipers too) and figured I'd do the other as well. They looked like new once inside, were probably stock (Aisin). Cleaned/inspected everything (shoes/drums were within spec), painted the drums, replaced the cylinders, few hours at most. No noise, no vibration, and a job well done. Check my location as a response on your rust comment.

TLDR; Drums often look like [censored] when they get to your shop because they've been neglected. You're likely unhappy because it's a dirtier job than discs, requires a bit more finesse/patience, and it's a tough sell to the customer on why you are charging more/taking longer.

JamesBond · Jul 6, 2015

http://www.focushacks.com/mod/Rear_Brake_Squeal_Fix_%28Lubricating_Rear_Brakes%29

This looks like the easiest way, it came right up on google.

Roadkingnc · Jul 6, 2015

Take the four bolts off from the backside and remove spindle and drum together

Merkava_4 · Jul 6, 2015

They put drum brakes on an '07 car? Geez, I thought they were obsolete way before then.

BurrWinder · Jul 7, 2015

Originally Posted By: Cardenio327
Originally Posted By: BurrWinder
They should be able to be backed off somewhat (brake shoe wise) and then be removed.. it shouldn't be sticking on the bearing unless it is starting to seize on the spindle. Not sure how yours has failed, but either way it obviously needs to come off.

Originally Posted By: NHGUY
Keep in mind,anytime you remove the drum/bearing you need to replace the spindle nut.They are special.

Yes, true to a point. These nuts can often be taken off, brakes inspected, and be tightened up properly for bearing preload and THEN be restaked to prevent loosening. If they have been on/off too many times there will not be enough metal in the staking area of the nut and then DO need to be replaced for them to be safely retained. I know the OEM claims they are throw away ANYTIME THEY ARE REMOVED but this is the reasoning behind it... for them to have no safety liability by telling you otherwise...

BurrWinder

The rear spindle nut on a Focus is especially hateful. It consists of three super thin nuts combined together in a cage.

Replace with new every time or find some with the same thread for some other car that are Nylock or some other type of self lockers. You don't want the kind that can be staked or the kind that uses a cotter key, they won't work.

In England on their beloved Fiestas they undo the nuts that hold the backing plate onto the suspension when they do the rear brakes to avoid messing with that hateful nut.

Ok, sorry I stand corrected.. Have not seen one quite like that "hateful" one of which you speak !!

Originally Posted By: hansj3
Originally Posted By: B20z
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
I hate drums

Absurd. I've had way less trouble/noise from drums than discs on all vehicles so-equipped. More work when they need service, perhaps but some of you guys need to get a service manual and a grip.

To the OP... I'd be concerned that the shop was unable to remove the drums. Even in severe rust areas it's not usually horrible unless they were terribly neglected. Penetrating oil, removal bolts (if so equipped), heat and hammer as needed. Maybe try another shop.

I call absurdity on your absurd. Maybe you have not been stuck out late trying to slap shoes back on with all those small parts. I will give you longevity, but they pack with mud, fill with brake dust, are noisy, there are twice the failure points on the hydraulic end of it. From a NVH standpoint they suck. From a reliability they have more fault points, and because of the longevity of it they get neglected and seized. the adjusters sometimes sieze and the only way to fix em is to rip it out

At my shop it is standard operating procedure to warn about stuck drums. A torch can cause brittleness, and hard spots, and some imports have thin drums and will crack before breaking free. I live in a severe rust area and its horrable. CYA is the rule of the day

Drum brakes aren't the end of the world.. but the seizing, not always self-adjusting properly and other issues left neglected by people make them especially big pains in the b.u.t.t.

BurrWinder

JTK · Jul 7, 2015

I've been through several frustrating drum removal sessions. I had a Ford tech suggest to me once that they'll drive the vehicle around the lot with the parking brake on, to heat things up and burn off enough P-brake shoe to clear the drum. That's how I'll do it if I ever have to tackle stubborn drums again.

HerrStig · Jul 7, 2015

Originally Posted By: B20z
Originally Posted By: hansj3

I call absurdity on your absurd. Maybe you have not been stuck out late trying to slap shoes back on with all those small parts.

Plan ahead, be prepared. Brakes aren't something anyone should be slapping back together anyway. A proper caliper relube/rebuild should take a good amount of time as well and you usually have to do it far more often.

Originally Posted By: hansj3
I will give you longevity, but they pack with mud, fill with brake dust, are noisy, there are twice the failure points on the hydraulic end of it.

Where's the mud coming from? Unless the drum or backing plate is cracked there shouldn't be much of anything besides a ton of brake dust when you crack it open. The dust is designed to be there and doesn't hurt anything unless, once again, the system is abused or neglected. I hear way more screeching discs than drums out and about and noise has never been a problem for me with drums. Most any brake system can squeal like a pig if mistreated (discs with used up pads, for instance).

Originally Posted By: hansj3
From a NVH standpoint they suck. From a reliability they have more fault points, and because of the longevity of it they get neglected and seized. the adjusters sometimes sieze and the only way to fix em is to rip it out

At my shop it is standard operating procedure to warn about stuck drums. A torch can cause brittleness, and hard spots, and some imports have thin drums and will crack before breaking free. I live in a severe rust area and its horrable. CYA is the rule of the day

Drums do what they are supposed to, with I'd say 1/3 the maintenance than comparable discs if you treat them right. The braking surface is protected from the elements and the parts are usually cheap as [censored]. I just replaced both rear brake cylinders on the Vibe at $20 total. Reason? Bleeder screw broke on one (happens with calipers too) and figured I'd do the other as well. They looked like new once inside, were probably stock (Aisin). Cleaned/inspected everything (shoes/drums were within spec), painted the drums, replaced the cylinders, few hours at most. No noise, no vibration, and a job well done. Check my location as a response on your rust comment.

TLDR; Drums often look like [censored] when they get to your shop because they've been neglected. You're likely unhappy because it's a dirtier job than discs, requires a bit more finesse/patience, and it's a tough sell to the customer on why you are charging more/taking longer.
Flat head engines are great, too.

HerrStig · Jul 7, 2015

Originally Posted By: BurrWinder
Originally Posted By: Cardenio327
Originally Posted By: BurrWinder
They should be able to be backed off somewhat (brake shoe wise) and then be removed.. it shouldn't be sticking on the bearing unless it is starting to seize on the spindle. Not sure how yours has failed, but either way it obviously needs to come off.

Originally Posted By: NHGUY
Keep in mind,anytime you remove the drum/bearing you need to replace the spindle nut.They are special.

Yes, true to a point. These nuts can often be taken off, brakes inspected, and be tightened up properly for bearing preload and THEN be restaked to prevent loosening. If they have been on/off too many times there will not be enough metal in the staking area of the nut and then DO need to be replaced for them to be safely retained. I know the OEM claims they are throw away ANYTIME THEY ARE REMOVED but this is the reasoning behind it... for them to have no safety liability by telling you otherwise...

BurrWinder

The rear spindle nut on a Focus is especially hateful. It consists of three super thin nuts combined together in a cage.

Replace with new every time or find some with the same thread for some other car that are Nylock or some other type of self lockers. You don't want the kind that can be staked or the kind that uses a cotter key, they won't work.

In England on their beloved Fiestas they undo the nuts that hold the backing plate onto the suspension when they do the rear brakes to avoid messing with that hateful nut.

Ok, sorry I stand corrected.. Have not seen one quite like that "hateful" one of which you speak !!

Originally Posted By: hansj3
Originally Posted By: B20z
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
I hate drums

Absurd. I've had way less trouble/noise from drums than discs on all vehicles so-equipped. More work when they need service, perhaps but some of you guys need to get a service manual and a grip.

To the OP... I'd be concerned that the shop was unable to remove the drums. Even in severe rust areas it's not usually horrible unless they were terribly neglected. Penetrating oil, removal bolts (if so equipped), heat and hammer as needed. Maybe try another shop.

I call absurdity on your absurd. Maybe you have not been stuck out late trying to slap shoes back on with all those small parts. I will give you longevity, but they pack with mud, fill with brake dust, are noisy, there are twice the failure points on the hydraulic end of it. From a NVH standpoint they suck. From a reliability they have more fault points, and because of the longevity of it they get neglected and seized. the adjusters sometimes sieze and the only way to fix em is to rip it out

At my shop it is standard operating procedure to warn about stuck drums. A torch can cause brittleness, and hard spots, and some imports have thin drums and will crack before breaking free. I live in a severe rust area and its horrable. CYA is the rule of the day

Drum brakes aren't the end of the world.. but the seizing, not always self-adjusting properly and other issues left neglected by people make them especially big pains in the b.u.t.t.

BurrWinder
The plain fact is they are prone to lock up because of the "self application" feature.

B20z · Jul 7, 2015

Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Flat head engines are great, too.

They sure are in the right application. Reliable and cheap. Fine for many situations while OHV is available for higher performance. Pros and cons either way like drums/discs. Just like drums, flatheads have a ton of detractors that haven't really bothered to learn about them and who always believe that the latest in design is the greatest. Or one can keep an open mind and pick the best fit for the job.

Not a bad comparison in a general sense.

How to remove rear drums 07 Focus sedan

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