Hyundai Sonata - outer tie rod end seized

[Number_35]

Worked with my friend on his Hyundai Sonata this morning. The car is c. 2008 w/ 115,000 km (approximately 70,000 miles) on it. We're in moderate rust territory here, but the car looks really good underneath.

We replaced the front brake pads and stabilizer bar end links no problem.

We had a hard time loosening the nut that locks the position of the outer tie-rod end, but did get it backed off a few turns. That should have been a omen.

We had no problem removing the outer end from the steering knuckle. The cotter pin came out easily, and the castellated nut was also easy to remove. The pickle-fork tool worked well to pop that end out of the knuckle (although it did a number on the boot.) I figured we were home-free at that point.

What we were unable to do was to unthread the outer tie-rod end (female threads) from the inner tie-rod end's threaded shaft (male threads). We just couldn't budge it. Used lots of penetrating oil, and heated it up with a propane torch at one point. 24 mm wrench on the square flange of the outer, vice grips on the round inner. No go. We put it back together for another day.

This was weird - I've done a few of these, and have never previously had one of these seized or rusted in.

Afterwards I watched YouTube for a solution. One fellow did have this happen with an older Jeep, and used a torch and a couple of long pipe wrenches to break things free.

I was thinking I could take a grinder to it to cut a longitudinal slot (parallel to the threads) but it would be tricky to get in there and not damage the male threads on the inner tie-rod end.

Thoughts from anyone else?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Kool1]

I had that happen to me once on a Honda Civic I was working on. I was replacing both outer tie rods and one side would not come off. The problem was caused by the car having damage probably due to an accident where the threads were wedged together. I could see a slight bend in the inner tie rod. I ended up replacing the inner tie rod on that one side.

 

[Trav]

Pipe wrenches are your friend on this job. Some of then can be real ball busters.

 

[Falken]

Where I used to work they used an acetylene torch and an air hammer with a flat punch bit.

They would use the air hammer on the flats of the tie rod to drive it around. Worked amazing.

If you don't have access to air, working on seized stuff is difficult.

 

[MobilinHyundia]

To remove the steering knuckle from the outer tie rod, use a three prong puller. I just used it to replaced my complete front strut assemblies.
Hope that info helps

 

[WobblyElvis]

Pipe wrenches as already said. An Oxy-Acetylene torch will do it. Change the inner rod. Choose your poison.

 

[Lubener]

I had that happen on my car long ago, you might also have to change the inner tie rod as well. I wouldn't heat it very much as you can damage the rack. Try some PB Blaster.

 

[Number_35]

Originally Posted By: MobilinHyundia
To remove the steering knuckle from the outer tie rod, use a three prong puller. I just used it to replaced my complete front strut assemblies.
Hope that info helps


That part was surprisingly easy. It was the threaded part that has defeated us (so far).

 

[eljefino]

Do the pipe wrench thing when the taper is still in the knuckle. When you get the outer tre off you can usually use a deep socket on the jam nut, with appropriate breaker or impact while the pipe wrench remains on the inner tie rod.

While I usually leave the old jam nut behind, if it's really creaky I'll spin it off and replace it. You'd be surprised how the old rod thread is smooth with a new nut.

 

[Nick1994]

This happened on my Camry. I got out the Sawzall and cut the inner tie rod in half and replaced them both. Easy as pie.