Instead of hacksaw what can I use?

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I need to cut shower door metal bottom and top channel. The instruction says to use hacksaw with 32TPI blade. I don't have one and don't want to buy one. I have no problem buying relevant blade for portable 5" circular saw, or for 6amp reciprocating saw or for oscillating multi-tool or for a Dremmel. Which would be the best and most effective solution?

I had been doing some work with 1x6 PVC board and a cut which takes less than 15 seconds using the circular saw, took inordinate amount of time with reciprocating saw or the oscillating multi-tool. So my preference is to find the correct 5" disc from the 18V circular saw if there are no gotchas.
 
You could buy a fine tooth metal cutting blade for the small circular saw. Whatever you buy tape the metal before hand and try to make the cleanest smoothest straight cut possible. A jagged poorly executed cut is going to look bad for years to come.
 
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A small angle grinder with a thin cutoff wheel. Mark the line carefully then cut just outside the line like you would with a saw.
Power saws on job like this can be a real PITA with the blade grabbing and bouncing the work all over the place.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-Pro-5-...33?N=5yc1vZc8y5

On one of these.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-4-1-2-in-Angle-Grinder-9557NB/202105761

some people (like me remove the guard for better accuracy and control) I am not telling you to do it or advocate doing it. Wear heavy gloves and goggles.
 
I think there's a reason they're telling you to use a hacksaw. Using a power saw on this type of material can leave you with a very rough cut, and it could even completely ruin the piece. A cutoff wheel will make a nice smooth cut, but the heat can discolor the metal. I would just buy a hacksaw, or maybe a neighbor has one you can borrow.
 
I forgot about the grinder but it is 4.5" with 7/8 arbor.5" blade is too big :-(
 
A reciprocating saw most closely emulates a hack saw. A 24tpi or finer blade will be fine. Clamp the piece in a vice.

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Watch some You Tube videos: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=reciprocating+saw+cutting+metal&page=2
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
I forgot about the grinder but it is 4.5" with 7/8 arbor.5" blade is too big :-(


How is too big if you could use a 5" circular saw blade? You can use 5" wheels with no guard on it.
 
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Originally Posted By: KD0AXS
I think there's a reason they're telling you to use a hacksaw. Using a power saw on this type of material can leave you with a very rough cut, and it could even completely ruin the piece. A cutoff wheel will make a nice smooth cut, but the heat can discolor the metal. I would just buy a hacksaw, or maybe a neighbor has one you can borrow.
I think I understand it now. I will get only one chance to cut it and there is not going to be any practice cuts. Would this work or would I be hacking for hours to make the cut? At least this hacksaw is designed to cut metal.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-809-Metal-Mini-Hacksaw/dp/B00002X22M/
 
If you are going to spend that amount of money, get the 12" Stanley high tension hacksaw with mini-hacksaw included for $15.97 at Home Depot. Get the proper 32T blade if not included. I prefer the regular hacksaw because I use a miter box for cuts like this, to span the miter box and to ensure a straight cut. Other standard 10" hacksaws start at $4-5 at Home Depot.
 
Just buy a cheap hobby hacksaw. It will get the job done and not cost much. You won't make each cut in 15 seconds but it will cut through. I used one to cut the exhaust pipe on the Burb.
 
Buy a hacksaw, and a little sandpaper to clean up the edges.

Your toolbox should have one in it.

Otherwise I think a dremel would work, bigger tools might bend up the metal depending on its thickness.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
I need to cut shower door metal bottom and top channel. The instruction says to use hacksaw with 32TPI blade. I don't have one and don't want to buy one. I have no problem buying relevant blade for portable 5" circular saw, or for 6amp reciprocating saw or for oscillating multi-tool or for a Dremmel. Which would be the best and most effective solution?

I had been doing some work with 1x6 PVC board and a cut which takes less than 15 seconds using the circular saw, took inordinate amount of time with reciprocating saw or the oscillating multi-tool. So my preference is to find the correct 5" disc from the 18V circular saw if there are no gotchas.


I'm not sure why you would compare cutting 1X6 PVC with cutting metal channel-they're completely different and require different tools. Just buck up and invest in a reasonable hacksaw-it's a basic that anyone who owns a home should have. You can buy a decent one for less than $20, and they actually don't require a learning curve.

Going through shower door channel should take just a minute or so with a hacksaw; I wouldn't consider that an "inordinate" amount of time.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
I need to cut shower door metal bottom and top channel. The instruction says to use hacksaw with 32TPI blade. I don't have one and don't want to buy one. I have no problem buying relevant blade for portable 5" circular saw, or for 6amp reciprocating saw or for oscillating multi-tool or for a Dremmel. Which would be the best and most effective solution?
How do you get by without a good hacksaw?? When you do buy one, be sure to get a high-tension frame, NOT one of the cheap, flimsy ones. They don't even belong in the same category.

Since you have a MotoTool, you can use one of the abrasive cut-off wheels or a diamond wheel. Smooth the edges with a file.

The "best and most effective solution" is a high-tension hacksaw frame, a new high-tooth blade and a bit of lube. Easy.
 
I just purchased the following i.e. the hacksaw listed, pair of 32T blades and the miter box. It was either buy this or pay $330 to get the shower door installed :) I have my son around to do heavy lifting if necessary. I am assuming I should not need more than 3 hours to install the shower door from the moment it is taken out from the van.

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If you are going to spend that amount of money, get the 12" Stanley high tension hacksaw with mini-hacksaw included for $15.97 at Home Depot. Get the proper 32T blade if not included. I prefer the regular hacksaw because I use a miter box for cuts like this, to span the miter box and to ensure a straight cut.
 
anybody willing to act as a e-guide/e-mentor?

This is a Sterling shower door and I will be following this video.

Any idea why the bottom track needs to be 1/4 shorter than the bottom length? Is that the thickness of the side jambs?

It is also asking for 5/16 drill bit for screw anchors. I have three sets of drill bits but the biggest is 1/4. Do I have to visit the hardware store to get the 5/16 drill or 1/4 would work?

The .pdf file http://sterlingplumbing.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/1204884_2.pdf says I need tin snips which I don't have. Can't I just file the contour if needed?
 
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