Kawasaki FS691 Oil

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What's wrong with Rotella SAE 30?

Kawasaki specifically advises that mutlti-grade oils in this engine will cause increased consumption, and approves SAE 30 from 32°F to 95°F.

Sure, seemingly archaic single-grades aren't so cool around here when discussing wonder lubricants, but it may be just the ticket for your application.
 
I could go that route. I like the synthetic idea, but am open to non synthetic.

The Amsoil struck me for it's single-ish weight.
 
Originally Posted By: racer12306
I could go that route. I like the synthetic idea, but am open to non synthetic.

The Amsoil struck me for it's single-ish weight.


If I thought there was any advantage whatsoever to utilizing Amsoil in this application, I wouldn't hesitate for a second to recommend it -- without question, it's a good product.

However, there exists zero evidence to make that claim, and given the significant cost savings of Rotella (2.5x less expensive @ retail prices), it's an easy decision.

I'd instead focus on making sure the air filter is sealed properly, greasing regularly, running good fuel, and keeping the grass screen clean.
 
Originally Posted By: pb
don't you mean
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/mo.../?code=ASEQT-EA


Either really. Saw that in a store locally but had some trouble finding it online.

Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: racer12306
I could go that route. I like the synthetic idea, but am open to non synthetic.

The Amsoil struck me for it's single-ish weight.


If I thought there was any advantage whatsoever to utilizing Amsoil in this application, I wouldn't hesitate for a second to recommend it -- without question, it's a good product.

However, there exists zero evidence to make that claim, and given the significant cost savings of Rotella (2.5x less expensive @ retail prices), it's an easy decision.

I'd instead focus on making sure the air filter is sealed properly, greasing regularly, running good fuel, and keeping the grass screen clean.


Thanks. I definitely will pay close attention to the other things. I know rotella is a great product.
 
I use a lot of SAE40 and 15W40 in Kawasaki engines. They love a 40 weight. Regular bulk 15W40 will have a better add pack than most synthetics, plus you wont be running extended drain intervals, so synthetic is really not necessary. If you really want to run a synthetic 5W40(Delo, Rotella, Mobil Turbo Diesel) is hard to beat.
 
Originally Posted By: racer12306
Getting a new ZTR with this engine in it tomorrow. I'm looking at oils to use in it. I'm definitely thinking a synthetic. Manual says nothing newer than SL rating.

Thinking of going with this: http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/mo.../?code=ACD1G-EA

Could always go with Rotella 10w30 Blend. Any other non-SM or SN rated synthetic 10w30s to consider?

Thoughts?
Newer API ratings are backwards compatible to older ratings. So there would be no issues using an API SM or SN oil. Most oils you will find are API SN. If you are still uncomfortable using that oil, Mobil 1 High Miles oil, and Amsoil Small Gas Engines oil are API SL.
 
Originally Posted By: racer12306
I could go that route. I like the synthetic idea, but am open to non synthetic.

The Amsoil struck me for it's single-ish weight.


I know there are a lot of people that like using the diesel rated conventional oils. Synthetics oil is a good idea if that is what you want to do. Multi-weight synthetics don't have the oil consumption like you need to be concerned with the conventional. That what I use and don't have a consumption problem. Synthetic oil have the high temperature protection that would be beneficial.
 
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My ZT has the FR651V and I use Delo 5w-40 ( or Rotella T6 ) with no problems at all. I change oil and filter every 100 hours, and unlike the manual states, I see no oil usage running a multi-grade 40 weight.
 
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My annual usage will very likely be half or less than the 100 hour service interval that Kaw recommends for their engines.

If I were to use a synthetic oil, does anyone see any issues with just running it to 100hours, regardless of time? Likely to be once every two years.

The mower runs 1.25-1.5 hours every time it mows, with the very large majority of that time at full engine speed.
 
Originally Posted By: racer12306
My annual usage will very likely be half or less than the 100 hour service interval that Kaw recommends for their engines.

If I were to use a synthetic oil, does anyone see any issues with just running it to 100hours, regardless of time? Likely to be once every two years.

The mower runs 1.25-1.5 hours every time it mows, with the very large majority of that time at full engine speed.



The only problem I see is wasting expensive synthetic oil when a good HDEO would suffice at a fraction of the cost. I've run Rotella in many, many applications from motorcycles to lawnmowers forever and it has performed as intended.

If you have no plans of extending the oil change duration, what's the advantage?

You can throw your money away by under-utilizing synthetic oil. The choice is yours.

Regarding going the full 100 hours, I would. I've been doing that for years as well in my riding mowers (Kawasaki and Honda engines). Pull the dipstick and check the oil condition. In my engines, it takes quite a while for the oil to show signs of discoloration. Just remember to do your first oil change after 5 to ten hours of use. Thereafter, follow the manual's instructions.
 
I'm definitely planning on doing the first change short. Manual states a first oil change at 8 hours.
 
I have a JD garden tractor with 18HP Kawasaki air cooled V-Twin. I performed a couple of UOA tests on it. I discovered the lowest wear metals with Mobil 1, 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck.

Not that it matters much, as I don't put all that many hours on it. After 10 years, I'm at about 300 hours. Still, it's hot-n-sticky here in South Florida and I do use the tractor fairly roughly. So oil temps do get "up there". That's where the synthetic's do quite well.

I change it every 50 hours.
 
Originally Posted By: boraticus
The only problem I see is wasting expensive synthetic oil when a good HDEO would suffice at a fraction of the cost. I've run Rotella in many, many applications from motorcycles to lawnmowers forever and it has performed as intended.

If you have no plans of extending the oil change duration, what's the advantage?

You can throw your money away by under-utilizing synthetic oil. The choice is yours.

Regarding going the full 100 hours, I would. I've been doing that for years as well in my riding mowers (Kawasaki and Honda engines). Pull the dipstick and check the oil condition. In my engines, it takes quite a while for the oil to show signs of discoloration. Just remember to do your first oil change after 5 to ten hours of use. Thereafter, follow the manual's instructions.


Very well said, Sir.

I tend to think many BITOG'ers overdue things way too often and change oil long before needed - especially regarding OPE. Rotella or DELO is all i've ever ran in OPE, scooters, bikes, etc. and have never had an oil related failure.

I do admit to changing oil in my scooters and bikes more often than some manufacturer's recommendations, but that is only on models without oil filters.

I do, and will continue to, always make sure and change oil filters at the same time as the engine oil. I just can't convince myself to put fresh oil in an engine with a dirty oil filter. Silly I know, i'm more than sure the oil filter has plenty of capacity left. For me it's the principle.
 
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