HTHS only benefits you for wear performance, and we see dexos1 beats VW 502.00 in wear performance by quite a bit already, rendering the HTHS requirement moot. I say use any dexos1 Xw-30 fully synthetic with confidence in this application.
Oil recomendation for 2010 Volkswagen Jetta
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Originally Posted By: used_0il
Danno;
I don't remember recommending anything.
I just stated the oil that I would use.
Besides, any 10W40 full synthetic in NB
should be fine and dandy, good to -25C.
In Northern Ontario, 0W40 would be a no-brainer.
The guy is asking for recommendations - what you would run is irrelevant.
Danno;
I don't remember recommending anything.
I just stated the oil that I would use.
Besides, any 10W40 full synthetic in NB
should be fine and dandy, good to -25C.
In Northern Ontario, 0W40 would be a no-brainer.
The guy is asking for recommendations - what you would run is irrelevant.
Originally Posted By: used_0il
Pet-Can 10W40 E meets the pumping requirement for 5W.
That means, if the car will start at -35C
the oil will pump.
The pour point looks OK too, if that means anything besides
what those test tube videos imply.
Take that old Lubrizol chart and boost the soot handling capability
to CJ-4, or click on the Lubrizol link at the top of your screen.
I didn't pick 10W40 Duron E out of my.....back pocket.
Now tell me, what is not to like about it, or it's European cousin
that is not available in North America?
You love that oil, don't you?
Pet-Can 10W40 E meets the pumping requirement for 5W.
That means, if the car will start at -35C
the oil will pump.
The pour point looks OK too, if that means anything besides
what those test tube videos imply.
Take that old Lubrizol chart and boost the soot handling capability
to CJ-4, or click on the Lubrizol link at the top of your screen.
I didn't pick 10W40 Duron E out of my.....back pocket.
Now tell me, what is not to like about it, or it's European cousin
that is not available in North America?
You love that oil, don't you?
I never tried it, but the spec's look ok,
and there are not of good synthetic 10W40s to
choose from.
Maybe I'll put it on a bucket list of oils to try.
My opinion, is like Danno said; Irrelevant, but I
got it from somewhere.
Someone mentioned 10W40 M1, extended whatever, is
available in the USA.
OK, if I lived in Omaha, I would use 10W40 M1.
Oh! I bet I could learn to love that engine oil.
Now tell me, what is wrong with 10W40 M1 in
a 2010 VW Jetta?
and there are not of good synthetic 10W40s to
choose from.
Maybe I'll put it on a bucket list of oils to try.
My opinion, is like Danno said; Irrelevant, but I
got it from somewhere.
Someone mentioned 10W40 M1, extended whatever, is
available in the USA.
OK, if I lived in Omaha, I would use 10W40 M1.
Oh! I bet I could learn to love that engine oil.
Now tell me, what is wrong with 10W40 M1 in
a 2010 VW Jetta?
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I love how people can overcomplicate the most simple things. Mobil 1 0W40 is easily available, meets (and likely exceeds) the OEM requirements, and is known to be an exceptionally good oil. On top of that, many people have run these cars with it without any issues. Why go and try to outsmart the manufacturer, oil companies, etc?
robert
robert
Found it http://mobiloil.com
10W40 M1 High Mileage
40C 96
100C 14.7
150C 3.9
Phos 1000
Zddp 1100
flash 232C
SN/CF
Looks better than the Duron for this application.
10W40 M1 High Mileage
40C 96
100C 14.7
150C 3.9
Phos 1000
Zddp 1100
flash 232C
SN/CF
Looks better than the Duron for this application.
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
M1 0W40 or Castrol Edge 0W40 or Valvoline 0W40 ... whichever is cheaper.
Where are you finding Valvoline 0w-40? I know it exists, I just have not seen it anywhere around me yet.
My local Walmart in Irvine, CA had it. I was there last month and bought M1 0W40 instead for $22.xx(and with $10 rebate), Valvoline 0w-40 was $28.xx.
Few months ago that Walmart had all Valvoline synthetic on Roll-Back for $22.xx while Mobil 1 was $26.xx.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
M1 0W40 or Castrol Edge 0W40 or Valvoline 0W40 ... whichever is cheaper.
Where are you finding Valvoline 0w-40? I know it exists, I just have not seen it anywhere around me yet.
My local Walmart in Irvine, CA had it. I was there last month and bought M1 0W40 instead for $22.xx(and with $10 rebate), Valvoline 0w-40 was $28.xx.
Few months ago that Walmart had all Valvoline synthetic on Roll-Back for $22.xx while Mobil 1 was $26.xx.
I'm with robertcope all the way on this one. The VW 2.5 is an extremely robust engine that also happens to be very forgiving on oil. The Mobil 1 0w40 is inexpensive, readily available, and most importantly... approved for 502 applications (not to mention many even more stringent ones).
As far as all the "cold climate" business goes... Porsche uses this as a factory and follow-on fill. They do a fair amount of cold weather testing (in temps far lower than Nebraska). It will flow and protect in any engine designed for its viscosity.
My 2009 Rabbit was equipped with this engine. Routinely saw temps in the teens and even a couple weeks below zero. Never had one cold-cranking issue with M1 0w40 in the pan.
As far as all the "cold climate" business goes... Porsche uses this as a factory and follow-on fill. They do a fair amount of cold weather testing (in temps far lower than Nebraska). It will flow and protect in any engine designed for its viscosity.
My 2009 Rabbit was equipped with this engine. Routinely saw temps in the teens and even a couple weeks below zero. Never had one cold-cranking issue with M1 0w40 in the pan.
I found some more Euro synthetics in 10W30 and 5w40.
www.havoline.com/products
www.havoline.com/products
Rotella T6 5w-40 has my vote.
But M1 0w-40 is of course good, too.
~ Triton
But M1 0w-40 is of course good, too.
~ Triton
Castrol or Mobil 1 0W40
Nothing more to say that hasn't already been said
Nothing more to say that hasn't already been said
Originally Posted By: VR6
My 2009 Rabbit was equipped with this engine. Routinely saw temps in the teens and even a couple weeks below zero. Never had one cold-cranking issue with M1 0w40 in the pan.
...except that you don't know what effect pushing cold molasses through an engine during the slow cranks and then burst of RPMs does to engine wear. The fact that it cranked and started just doesn't tell the whole story.
Bottom line, in Omaha (Peyton Manning's fav town...) where the winters are cold, one can really use an M1 0w-30 that gets oil inside internal moving parts quicker.
Try this: On a cold night, or overnight in your freezer (near zeroF), put M1 0w-40 and compare it to 0w-30 or 5w-30 synthetics, and tell me which oil will lubricate better cold. Remember, just starting, and some thick flow isn't all there is. Engine wear.
My 2009 Rabbit was equipped with this engine. Routinely saw temps in the teens and even a couple weeks below zero. Never had one cold-cranking issue with M1 0w40 in the pan.
...except that you don't know what effect pushing cold molasses through an engine during the slow cranks and then burst of RPMs does to engine wear. The fact that it cranked and started just doesn't tell the whole story.
Bottom line, in Omaha (Peyton Manning's fav town...) where the winters are cold, one can really use an M1 0w-30 that gets oil inside internal moving parts quicker.
Try this: On a cold night, or overnight in your freezer (near zeroF), put M1 0w-40 and compare it to 0w-30 or 5w-30 synthetics, and tell me which oil will lubricate better cold. Remember, just starting, and some thick flow isn't all there is. Engine wear.
Originally Posted By: ExMachina
Originally Posted By: VR6
My 2009 Rabbit was equipped with this engine. Routinely saw temps in the teens and even a couple weeks below zero. Never had one cold-cranking issue with M1 0w40 in the pan.
...except that you don't know what effect pushing cold molasses through an engine during the slow cranks and then burst of RPMs does to engine wear. The fact that it cranked and started just doesn't tell the whole story.
Bottom line, in Omaha (Peyton Manning's fav town...) where the winters are cold, one can really use an M1 0w-30 that gets oil inside internal moving parts quicker.
Try this: On a cold night, or overnight in your freezer (near zeroF), put M1 0w-40 and compare it to 0w-30 or 5w-30 synthetics, and tell me which oil will lubricate better cold. Remember, just starting, and some thick flow isn't all there is. Engine wear.
it wont really matter at temps seen in Omaha. The oil pump doesn't care about the thickness of the oil, and it will pump the same amount of volume. The difference in Viscosity between 0w30 and 0w40 at 0 Deg is not enough to phase the oil pump or prohibit lubrication to the top end.
0w40 isn't too thick or excessive by any means. OP if it were my vehicle i would run a 5w40 or 0w40 that meets the 502.00 spec as your car calls for. As mentioned the spec has a higher HTHS rating than your typical 0/5w30 GF-5 SN oil.
I realize your car isn't a turbo model and is a standard N/A 2.5l, however the recommended VW spec is still the recommended spec. M1 0w40 is hard to beat for the price and availability.
Originally Posted By: VR6
My 2009 Rabbit was equipped with this engine. Routinely saw temps in the teens and even a couple weeks below zero. Never had one cold-cranking issue with M1 0w40 in the pan.
...except that you don't know what effect pushing cold molasses through an engine during the slow cranks and then burst of RPMs does to engine wear. The fact that it cranked and started just doesn't tell the whole story.
Bottom line, in Omaha (Peyton Manning's fav town...) where the winters are cold, one can really use an M1 0w-30 that gets oil inside internal moving parts quicker.
Try this: On a cold night, or overnight in your freezer (near zeroF), put M1 0w-40 and compare it to 0w-30 or 5w-30 synthetics, and tell me which oil will lubricate better cold. Remember, just starting, and some thick flow isn't all there is. Engine wear.
it wont really matter at temps seen in Omaha. The oil pump doesn't care about the thickness of the oil, and it will pump the same amount of volume. The difference in Viscosity between 0w30 and 0w40 at 0 Deg is not enough to phase the oil pump or prohibit lubrication to the top end.
0w40 isn't too thick or excessive by any means. OP if it were my vehicle i would run a 5w40 or 0w40 that meets the 502.00 spec as your car calls for. As mentioned the spec has a higher HTHS rating than your typical 0/5w30 GF-5 SN oil.
I realize your car isn't a turbo model and is a standard N/A 2.5l, however the recommended VW spec is still the recommended spec. M1 0w40 is hard to beat for the price and availability.
Originally Posted By: used_0il
I never tried it, but the spec's look ok, and there are not of good synthetic 10W40s to choose from.
Maybe I'll put it on a bucket list of oils to try.
My opinion, is like Danno said; Irrelevant, but I got it from somewhere.
Someone mentioned 10W40 M1, extended whatever, is available in the USA.
OK, if I lived in Omaha, I would use 10W40 M1.
Oh! I bet I could learn to love that engine oil.
Now tell me, what is wrong with 10W40 M1 in a 2010 VW Jetta?
Other than the fact that it does not carry 502 approval, probably nothing since it is A3/B3. However, if I'm making a recommendation to someone about what oil to use it's going to meet the specification required by the manufacturer.
But we weren't talking about M1 10W-40, were we?
If that's your game then what's wrong with M1 0W-40?
I never tried it, but the spec's look ok, and there are not of good synthetic 10W40s to choose from.
Maybe I'll put it on a bucket list of oils to try.
My opinion, is like Danno said; Irrelevant, but I got it from somewhere.
Someone mentioned 10W40 M1, extended whatever, is available in the USA.
OK, if I lived in Omaha, I would use 10W40 M1.
Oh! I bet I could learn to love that engine oil.
Now tell me, what is wrong with 10W40 M1 in a 2010 VW Jetta?
Other than the fact that it does not carry 502 approval, probably nothing since it is A3/B3. However, if I'm making a recommendation to someone about what oil to use it's going to meet the specification required by the manufacturer.
But we weren't talking about M1 10W-40, were we?
If that's your game then what's wrong with M1 0W-40?
Originally Posted By: donnyj08
it wont really matter at temps seen in Omaha. The oil pump doesn't care about the thickness of the oil, and it will pump the same amount of volume. The difference in Viscosity between 0w30 and 0w40 at 0 Deg is not enough to phase the oil pump or prohibit lubrication to the top end.
0w40 isn't too thick or excessive by any means. OP if it were my vehicle i would run a 5w40 or 0w40 that meets the 502.00 spec as your car calls for. As mentioned the spec has a higher HTHS rating than your typical 0/5w30 GF-5 SN oil.
I realize your car isn't a turbo model and is a standard N/A 2.5l, however the recommended VW spec is still the recommended spec. M1 0w40 is hard to beat for the price and availability.
Oh, I forgot, Omaha doesn't get cold in the winter!
Right. We believe that.
There is a lot of misunderstanding about just being able to pump, and actually getting the oil to splash/flow on cylinder walls, chains, valvetrain, some parts more susceptible to cold weather flow issues than others. A thinner oil cold will help, just the truth. Sure the engine won't explode either way, but we're trying to minimize wear, not maximize it.
And again, about HTHS, its there to lower wear. The dexos1 speced oils in the near-3.0 category already lower wear much more than VW 502.00 (HTHS 3.5) calls for, so no problem there.
it wont really matter at temps seen in Omaha. The oil pump doesn't care about the thickness of the oil, and it will pump the same amount of volume. The difference in Viscosity between 0w30 and 0w40 at 0 Deg is not enough to phase the oil pump or prohibit lubrication to the top end.
0w40 isn't too thick or excessive by any means. OP if it were my vehicle i would run a 5w40 or 0w40 that meets the 502.00 spec as your car calls for. As mentioned the spec has a higher HTHS rating than your typical 0/5w30 GF-5 SN oil.
I realize your car isn't a turbo model and is a standard N/A 2.5l, however the recommended VW spec is still the recommended spec. M1 0w40 is hard to beat for the price and availability.
Oh, I forgot, Omaha doesn't get cold in the winter!
There is a lot of misunderstanding about just being able to pump, and actually getting the oil to splash/flow on cylinder walls, chains, valvetrain, some parts more susceptible to cold weather flow issues than others. A thinner oil cold will help, just the truth. Sure the engine won't explode either way, but we're trying to minimize wear, not maximize it.
And again, about HTHS, its there to lower wear. The dexos1 speced oils in the near-3.0 category already lower wear much more than VW 502.00 (HTHS 3.5) calls for, so no problem there.
Originally Posted By: ExMachina
Originally Posted By: donnyj08
it wont really matter at temps seen in Omaha. The oil pump doesn't care about the thickness of the oil, and it will pump the same amount of volume. The difference in Viscosity between 0w30 and 0w40 at 0 Deg is not enough to phase the oil pump or prohibit lubrication to the top end.
0w40 isn't too thick or excessive by any means. OP if it were my vehicle i would run a 5w40 or 0w40 that meets the 502.00 spec as your car calls for. As mentioned the spec has a higher HTHS rating than your typical 0/5w30 GF-5 SN oil.
I realize your car isn't a turbo model and is a standard N/A 2.5l, however the recommended VW spec is still the recommended spec. M1 0w40 is hard to beat for the price and availability.
Oh, I forgot, Omaha doesn't get cold in the winter!
Right. We believe that.
There is a lot of misunderstanding about just being able to pump, and actually getting the oil to splash/flow on cylinder walls, chains, valvetrain, some parts more susceptible to cold weather flow issues than others. A thinner oil cold will help, just the truth. Sure the engine won't explode either way, but we're trying to minimize wear, not maximize it.
And again, about HTHS, its there to lower wear. The dexos1 speced oils in the near-3.0 category already lower wear much more than VW 502.00 (HTHS 3.5) calls for, so no problem there.
I don't entirely disagree with you. You are correct in the fact that a dexos 5w30 or 0w30 would flow better when "cold" compared to a 0w40.
The real issue is the relativity of the cold. I know Omaha is cold, however the average January temperature in Omaha is 12 degrees F. While it is cold, it isn't anywhere near cold enough to stress an oil like M1 0w40. at 12F mobil 1 0w40 would still be able to splash and flow well.
If we start talking about -20F or colder then yes i would look into something like 0w30 mobil.
below is a link to see average temps in Omaha, NE
http://www.visitomaha.com/visitors/weather/#.VZVP6_lViko
Originally Posted By: donnyj08
it wont really matter at temps seen in Omaha. The oil pump doesn't care about the thickness of the oil, and it will pump the same amount of volume. The difference in Viscosity between 0w30 and 0w40 at 0 Deg is not enough to phase the oil pump or prohibit lubrication to the top end.
0w40 isn't too thick or excessive by any means. OP if it were my vehicle i would run a 5w40 or 0w40 that meets the 502.00 spec as your car calls for. As mentioned the spec has a higher HTHS rating than your typical 0/5w30 GF-5 SN oil.
I realize your car isn't a turbo model and is a standard N/A 2.5l, however the recommended VW spec is still the recommended spec. M1 0w40 is hard to beat for the price and availability.
Oh, I forgot, Omaha doesn't get cold in the winter!
There is a lot of misunderstanding about just being able to pump, and actually getting the oil to splash/flow on cylinder walls, chains, valvetrain, some parts more susceptible to cold weather flow issues than others. A thinner oil cold will help, just the truth. Sure the engine won't explode either way, but we're trying to minimize wear, not maximize it.
And again, about HTHS, its there to lower wear. The dexos1 speced oils in the near-3.0 category already lower wear much more than VW 502.00 (HTHS 3.5) calls for, so no problem there.
I don't entirely disagree with you. You are correct in the fact that a dexos 5w30 or 0w30 would flow better when "cold" compared to a 0w40.
The real issue is the relativity of the cold. I know Omaha is cold, however the average January temperature in Omaha is 12 degrees F. While it is cold, it isn't anywhere near cold enough to stress an oil like M1 0w40. at 12F mobil 1 0w40 would still be able to splash and flow well.
If we start talking about -20F or colder then yes i would look into something like 0w30 mobil.
below is a link to see average temps in Omaha, NE
http://www.visitomaha.com/visitors/weather/#.VZVP6_lViko
KSChachn;
No, there is nothing wrong with 0W40 M1 for this application.
I believe, looking at the additive package and the
base oil viscosity of the 10W40 high mileage offering.
It is the better choice.
I believe it is the better choice because it will stay in grade
longer, last longer and produce lower wear over a longer
period of time than the 0W40.
I'll split the difference with you
.
If that was my car operating in the same conditions in Canada,
I would more than likely use Duron 5W40 E, because I already
have it in my stash.
But then I also have 10 liters of Castrol 5W40 in my stash too.
No, there is nothing wrong with 0W40 M1 for this application.
I believe, looking at the additive package and the
base oil viscosity of the 10W40 high mileage offering.
It is the better choice.
I believe it is the better choice because it will stay in grade
longer, last longer and produce lower wear over a longer
period of time than the 0W40.
I'll split the difference with you
.
If that was my car operating in the same conditions in Canada,
I would more than likely use Duron 5W40 E, because I already
have it in my stash.
But then I also have 10 liters of Castrol 5W40 in my stash too.
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I appreciate all of the responses. I did not think this topic would spawn so much debate I do like reading all of the info from everyone. We shall see how this winter does on 0w-40 and go from there. Now does anyone have any oil filter recommendations?
Originally Posted By: svaflakmonkey1
Now does anyone have any oil filter recommendations?
My advice would be to stick with OEM (Mann/Mahle, or whatever it may be). They are high quality filters and can be purchased online at very reasonable prices.
Now does anyone have any oil filter recommendations?
My advice would be to stick with OEM (Mann/Mahle, or whatever it may be). They are high quality filters and can be purchased online at very reasonable prices.
I like the M1's over the Fram ultras.
And don't worry about us, this is our idea of fun. lol
And don't worry about us, this is our idea of fun. lol
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