M1 0w30 AFE, '15 Civic Si (K24Z7), ~5,200 Miles

[wi11iam]

Another sample of M1 0w30 AFE to confirm my thoughts that this oil is shearing down too much, even with conservative OCIs. Mostly highway driving for this sample, and my OLM was at 30% when changed. I refilled with M1 0w40, interested to see the results.

 

[zuluplus30]

This is a perfect example of an imperfect methodology steering you down the wrong road. Twice now you've seen AFE thin ever so slightly out of grade, so your immediate and incomplete assumption is this motor is hard on oil and I'm going to up another grade. Again. You're now 2 grades thicker than Honda specs for this motor.

What are you searching for? You're wear metals appear fine even though it's now a thick 20W oil. Obviously the engine didn't care. What results are you hoping for with a 0W-40? Would you be fine if it stayed in grade but your wear metals elevated?

I said it last time and I'll say it again. Until you run a 0W-20 for the full length of the MM for several OCIs to establish a baseline, you have no idea what you're chasing.

Where's DNEWTON3 when we need him?

 

[ExMachina]

Since Honda says both 0w-20 or 0w-30 are fine, then I wouldn't worry about viscosity dropping a bit when using a 0w-30. Still plenty of room left before it drops out of 20 grade.

 

[tig1]

Itrt's better for an oil to shear a bit than to oxidize(thicken). When an oil oxidizes is when you get varnish or worse(sludge) and also ring coking. You should have ran the M1 0-30 for 10K.

 

[4D-56]

Originally Posted By: zuluplus30
This is a perfect example of an imperfect methodology steering you down the wrong road. Twice now you've seen AFE thin ever so slightly out of grade, so your immediate and incomplete assumption is this motor is hard on oil and I'm going to up another grade. Again. You're now 2 grades thicker than Honda specs for this motor.

What are you searching for? You're wear metals appear fine even though it's now a thick 20W oil. Obviously the engine didn't care. What results are you hoping for with a 0W-40? Would you be fine if it stayed in grade but your wear metals elevated?

I said it last time and I'll say it again. Until you run a 0W-20 for the full length of the MM for several OCIs to establish a baseline, you have no idea what you're chasing.

Where's DNEWTON3 when we need him?



From my limited knowledge, these words make a lot of sense. The engine is calling for a 20 weight, you ran a 30 and it thinned to a thick 20, whats wrong with that to warrant a 40 weight?

 

[userfriendly]

I can hardly wait to see the 0W40 results.

 

[ltslimjim]

Is this a troll post?

Does the OP realize his first two UOAs were mostly break-in metals and in no way demonstrate a correlation between the 'wear metals' and oil choice?

Use a 0w-20 oil please.

 

[wi11iam]

I agree that wear metals are fine, all I'm searching for is a tad more viscosity, seeing that this car sees 3,000+ rpms for extended amounts of time (1-1.5hrs) daily. Given that this engine has one of the highest piston speeds of any modern honda motor (very close to the s2000) I think I would be fine running a better suited 30w, say a 10w30. The 1st oil change in the report was actually 0w20 M1 AFE..

Appreciate your point of view though. I was debating between a 10w30 and 0w40 but wanted to give the 0w40 a shot.

Originally Posted By: zuluplus30
This is a perfect example of an imperfect methodology steering you down the wrong road. Twice now you've seen AFE thin ever so slightly out of grade, so your immediate and incomplete assumption is this motor is hard on oil and I'm going to up another grade. Again. You're now 2 grades thicker than Honda specs for this motor.

What are you searching for? You're wear metals appear fine even though it's now a thick 20W oil. Obviously the engine didn't care. What results are you hoping for with a 0W-40? Would you be fine if it stayed in grade but your wear metals elevated?

I said it last time and I'll say it again. Until you run a 0W-20 for the full length of the MM for several OCIs to establish a baseline, you have no idea what you're chasing.

Where's DNEWTON3 when we need him?

 

[wi11iam]

The same motor has different recommended oils depending on what region you live in. Currently in the US, Honda's recommendation for this engine is, in my opinion, more fuel economy related vs. engine wear protection. A few years ago, a similar engine was spec'd for 5w30 (acura TSX)...


Originally Posted By: ExMachina
Since Honda says both 0w-20 or 0w-30 are fine, then I wouldn't worry about viscosity dropping a bit when using a 0w-30. Still plenty of room left before it drops out of 20 grade.

 

[wi11iam]

The OP never mentioned or was worried about break-in metals, rather, more worried about how quickly a premium synthetic oil was shearing out of grade based on his usage.

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Is this a troll post?

Does the OP realize his first two UOAs were mostly break-in metals and in no way demonstrate a correlation between the 'wear metals' and oil choice?

Use a 0w-20 oil please.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: wi11iam
The OP never mentioned or was worried about break-in metals, rather, more worried about how quickly a premium synthetic oil was shearing out of grade based on his usage


Who is the OP?

 

[ExMachina]

Bob Dole says that Bob Dole is for more jobs.
Jimmy played well.

 

[wi11iam]

Originally Posted By: ExMachina
Bob Dole says that Bob Dole is for more jobs.

 

[3311]

What's up with the thinner is better eco mafia? If he wants to run a thicker oil and document it with uoa's why the hate?

 

[userfriendly]

Thank you 3311.

 

[webfors]

Nice report. I would stick with the current oil, or another quality 30 weight. Strong ending TBN, "wear metals" are good and trending down, super flash, trace insols, what's not to like?

I agree with going with a 30 weight to keep the oil a thick 20 or light 30. Nothing wrong with that strategy.

 

[Turk]

Originally Posted By: 3311
What's up with the thinner is better eco mafia? If he wants to run a thicker oil and document it with uoa's why the hate?


Right. Plus, it's the heat of the Summer, not the dead of Winter.

Results will be very interesting.

 

[Ded Mazai]

Oil that are prone to shearing are not good to begin with, no matter if they stayed within reasonable kinematic viscosity or not. I support you idea to find a better oil but I'd use a 0W-20 or a 5W-30 which is guaranteed to be higher quality such as Pennzoil ultra platinum. I am sure that the Mobil 1 0W-40 is also top notch unlike the cheaper versions of oils you used before but you will consume a little more gas without gaining anything else.

 

[bigt61]

UOAs look fine. I'd just run the oil Honda specs and follow the OLM. 3000 RPM down the highway is nothing, my big block Suburban would do that all day while towing a trailer and not even blink. If you were going to track the car, that would be different.

 

[Swifty]

William you and I have chatted on the civic forums and I am curious to see the results of the 40 weight. However I don't expect anything exciting there, great oil. I have to agree with a few on here trying a different brand and sticking to a 30 weight. The protection is there even if it falls slightly out of grade or even a heavy 20 weight nothing to worry about.

Don't let the thin is in crowd get to ya!

It's your ride it is okay to experiment.