HDEO for 2012 Tundra 5.7 (75% Tow/Severe Duty)?

[JFK]

Consider running Redline 5W20 or 5W30 twice then doing a UOA or Amsoil 5W30 HD and doing a UOA.

All Toyota engines generate low wear number's. Insolubles and oil consumption are the only issues any Toyota's ever have with oil. If oil consumption is not an issue with 5W20 and wear numbers are good you have no need explore other grades unless you just want too!

Everyone I know for instance that owns a 2AZ-FE engine all have no oil consumption issues at all. None of them have ever ran a 0W20 or 5W20 oil. All of them run a synthetic 5W30,10W30,5W40 or 0W40. All of the reports online on this engine and oil consumption issues all seem to be related to owners that have run either 5W20 or 0W20 exclusively.

On the other hand I know plenty of people with Honda, Ford and GM vehicles that have had no issues at all with 5W20 or 0W20 even when not recommended for that year make and model of engine.

I think UOA and observation might be more important then OEM recommendation by country. It would be different if the recommended oil weight/grade was universal but it varies by country so what is recommended is not that big a deal.

 

[simple_gifts]

I will just mention again, with 36K on the engine, the drivetrain warranty is 60K, not 36K (bumper to bumper) so consideration of warranty could still be a concern.

 

[Hessam]

Yeah I already ordered the Redline synthetic ATF, and the heavey shockproof gear oil... I have always run redline in the trans, transfer, and axles in all my trucks. Only thing that does not have Redline in the driveline right now is the 240D, where my mechanic took it upon himself to dump the redline I had put in about a year ago, and replace it with the lubro moly sythetic gear oil, when he was replacing the rear CV axle joints.

Because of the warranty issues, I decided to go with the M1 EP 0W-20 for now. will do a UOA in about 5K to 7K, to see how it's holding up. From everything I've read on BITOG and UOA section the M1 EP 0W-20 seems to be one of the stoutest 0W-20 weights currently available. Thought about going with the Redline 0W-20 (since redline specifically recommends their 0W-20 for the 5.7L Tundra engines), but the cost over the M1 EP 0W-20 just didn't justify for it. Hopefully the M1 EP will hold up. If not will consider the Redline or Perhaps RP for next OC (if there aren't any 0W-20, or 5W-20 HDEO's out by then.

 

[bbhero]

You have ALREADY had to replace the rear CV joints?? Wow. That seems really early for that.

 

[dernp]

He replaced the CV joints in his Mercedes.

Alot of Tundra guys are running the GC 0w30. These 5.7's are pretty stout. I've been running TGMO in mine until the lastest oc when I used up my last PP.

 

[dnewton3]

That engine series is perfectly fine with a decent PCMO. He doesn't "need" HDEO. He wants it. If someone can PROVE it needs HDEO, I'd like to see the UOA data, please; show me where PCMO is failing, and only HDEO will succeed.

So what if he's towing with it; isn't that what a truck is for? Aren't today's trucks more robust than ever? Aren't today's lubes better than ever? And yet he "needs" HDEO even though the vehicle was designed, tested and manufactured with PCMO in mind?

Because this is a "want" and not a "need", just buy whatever makes you feel good, because that's the only good you'll get out of it.

 

[MinamiKotaro]

Believe it or not, car companies actually test things. They don't just slap a "0w-20" label on it and call it a day. Run whatever it says in the owner's manual and worry about something more important.

 

[userfriendly]

Like adding a liter of oil every 1,600 km.

 

[bullwinkle]

If you can find a dealer that'll give you a deal on the TGMO full syn 0W20, that's the way I'd go-but 0W20 EP is pretty good stuff too. If your Tundra had a boatload of miles & no warranty, & you REALLY wanted HDEO, T5 10W30 seems to be one of the thinnest (cheap, easily available, non 0W) HDEOs around.

 

[Hessam]

Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
If you can find a dealer that'll give you a deal on the TGMO full syn 0W20, that's the way I'd go-but 0W20 EP is pretty good stuff too. If your Tundra had a boatload of miles & no warranty, & you REALLY wanted HDEO, T5 10W30 seems to be one of the thinnest (cheap, easily available, non 0W) HDEOs around.


No way, I'm done with T5... I'm running it in my LX450 right now (10W-30), and the oil pressure barely makes it above the half way mark while driving. I had been using Delo S 5W-40 and T6 before that, and my oi pressure was above the 2/3 mark on the gauge.
The engine is also taking longer to start and get to "normal" operating oil temp/pressure with the T5. Also seems to be noticeably more sluggish during acceleration. Add all that to the fact that SOPUS has ripped me off on their "rebate" for the 2nd time this year...no thanks for T5 for me going forward in any of my rigs.

I had much better results with the regular dino Rotella T 15W-40, and T6 than the T5 I'm running now. As far as engine smoothness, the Delo 5W-40 is the best. I got a couple of jugs of that for my next OCI in the LX450.

As far as the Tundra, it's been running flawlessly on the M1 EP 0W-20. and I have run it extremely hard the past couple months. I even towed about 8500 pounds few weeks ago, and the oil pressure and temperature never budged. I have been really impressed with this oil..Engine seems to run great on it.

 

[Skittles]

Originally Posted By: used_0il
Like adding a liter of oil every 1,600 km.


LMAO

 

[RISUPERCREWMAN]

That Toyota 5.7 should be good for 300K mikes easy!

 

[JR]

One customer has 250+k on 5.7 tundra's running amsoil SS 0w-20 at OEM interval. Towing and highway.
175k on Uplander same oil and oci.

I run 15w40/sae40 in a 98 tucoma with over 200k on it. I have a stash of R1 sae40 to burn through. National 5w-20 behind seat with QS filter for winter, $11.15+tax oil change. It seems to not even notices a difference, except cold weather.


Harvey