Best oil for a modern GDI motor?

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I guys, first post here and I'm very green when it comes to the chemistry of motor oils
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I've just bought a new 2.0L Hyundai i30 which is the sport version here in New Zealand. We get the typical mild 4 seasons here with average winter lows of 2 degrees C for 2-3 months and average summer highs of 25 degrees.

My car has done 1200km and I'm going to put a good oil catch can in place to help reduce inlet valve carbon.

The manual states 'for best fuel economy' use 5w30 ILSAC GF-4 (API Service SM) or above, ACEA A5???????? what ever that means. Hyundai seem to recommend Shell Helix motor oils.

I've also read that to reduce inlet valve carbon build-up, a low SAPS oil is good. Is this because it doesn't become airborne as easily so less oil will get vented via the PCV to the inlet manifold?

What would you guys suggest as an excellent oil for a modern GDI motor that falls into spec. I also hear that thin oils are bad for GDI so based on the 5w30 'for best fuel economy' comment (thinner is better for fuel economy), if I didn't care about fuel economy but cared more about protection (that high pressure fuel pump running off the cam is fast and brutal as is the overhead cam chain), what would be a synthetic oil brand and grade you'd recommend?

I'd change the oil every 5000km or year as per the maintenance manual.

Thanks for your help.
 
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I run PP 10w30. Noack is same as small engine sae30/10w30 by amsoil. (4.7) pp 5w30 is low also 6.somthing I think. My intervals are <6k miles.
 
Yes Shell Helix 5w30 is good stuff, anything with API SN, GF5, Honda HT06, and ACEA A5/B5 would be a good choice.

Find an oil you like an if it at least meets all of that criteria you are good to go.
 
Thanks guys, so Hyundai have it right with that recommendation of Shell Helix with respect to low SAPS and the best choice for reducing inlet valve carbon? I'd imagine there would be many mid 2000's Audi owners who would have asked the same question as me
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Is price a concern in New Zealand? What other oils are similar in price to the shell helix with similar specs?

I'm sure Mobil has a good product too.
 
I'm happy to pay extra for better quality. Oil is expensive here in NZ, typically around NZ$100 (US$68) per 5 Litres for a good brand synthetic.

Castro Edge 5w30 titanium (not sure it meets spec) NZ$80
Penrite HPR 5 5w40 NZ$75
Royal Synthetic Ultra V 5w30 NZ$152
Mobil 1 0W40 NZ$129
Royal Ultra 7000 5w30 NZ$126
Morris Multicut V-Max 5w30 NZ$124

I could get other good brand oil if I look around but hers some from main supply sources. I could probably find some higher grade Shell.

What do you reckon of the Mobil 1. Any particular grade or would 0w40 be good?
 
Hyundai likes that vague spec. My Hyundai Veloster Turbo had the same oil spec. It is also rumored to have a factory fill of Shell Helix A5.

We discussed US oils that meet that spec here.

BTW, I am going with Castrol Edge w/Ti
 
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From your list...

Castrol Edge w/Ti or Penrite HPR would be my choices.

But if you are going to stick to the 5000km OCI, i would go with any approved SN/GF-5 which already is more current than the recommended SM/GF-4, and a step up. ACEA A5 is for longer drain intervals.
 
Originally Posted By: omegaspeedy
I guys, first post here and I'm very green when it comes to the
I've also read that to reduce inlet valve carbon build-up, a low SAPS oil is good. Is this because it doesn't become airborne as easily so less oil will get vented via the PCV to the inlet manifold?


LOW SAPS oils have different chemistry......with that I mean different ZZDP package.....wich if oil somehow gets into combustion chamber leave less "byproducts".....when LOW SAPS oil is burnt there is less ash content wich can build-up somewhere in engine...

I personally will stay away from 0w40.....because there is no need for that in your climate....
 
I'd use a 0w40 or 5w40.

Don't worry about SAPS.

Worry about fuel dilution, oil consumption, oil level, fuel quality, and oil change interval
 
Any 0w-40 you can get that meets MB 229.5 is the highest spec oil that will work.
M1 0w-40 is proven. Meets the hardest specs to reach, and is used in racing (24 Hours at Nurburgring, IndyCar, etc.) straight from the bottle. Can't beat that in a turbo GDI engine.
 
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My owners manual for my 1.6gdi says quaker state 5w20, 5w30, or 10w 30. None of which are low noack.

So, I'm gonna switch from 5w20 to 5w30 and just run whatever for 5k oci. Probably the super s 5w30 semi synthetic I just got or valvoline white bottle conventional 5w30 I got on sale.

Mine doesn't have a turbo. So I don't think it's a big deal.
 
Originally Posted By: ExMachina
Any 0w-40 you can get that meets MB 229.5 is the highest spec oil that will work.
M1 0w-40 is proven. Meets the hardest specs to reach, and is used in racing (24 Hours at Nurburgring, IndyCar, etc.) straight from the bottle. Can't beat that in a turbo GDI engine.


The Turbo i30 (Elantra GT here) is the 1.6T, not the 2.0L.

As an aside: The U.S. Elantra GT doesn't get this engine. Yet.
 
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Thanks for the great info and advice guys, its much appreciated!

I'll digest it and see what available here in NZ. The manual does approve 0w40 and if it's an overkill in M1 then I'm happy to go that route. Except for cost, is there any reason I should use it in the GDI engine in tempered climates?
 
Originally Posted By: omegaspeedy
Thanks for the great info and advice guys, its much appreciated!

I'll digest it and see what available here in NZ. The manual does approve 0w40 and if it's an overkill in M1 then I'm happy to go that route. Except for cost, is there any reason I should use it in the GDI engine in tempered climates?


Since you're in NZ, you can easily pick up any xW30 or xW40 grade oil that carries the ACEA A3 rating and also the MB 229.5 approval if you want to nitpick. Any oil with the 229.5 approval would be equivalent to M1 0W40, but you may be able to find something at a lower price point.

Also, if for some reason you wanted to use a C3 rated oil to attempt to address the intake valve deposits, the you can look for any xW30 or xW40 that also carries MB 229.51 spec (low-SAPS version of the 229.5 spec).
 
Originally Posted By: il_signore97
Originally Posted By: omegaspeedy
Thanks for the great info and advice guys, its much appreciated!

I'll digest it and see what available here in NZ. The manual does approve 0w40 and if it's an overkill in M1 then I'm happy to go that route. Except for cost, is there any reason I should use it in the GDI engine in tempered climates?


Since you're in NZ, you can easily pick up any xW30 or xW40 grade oil that carries the ACEA A3 rating and also the MB 229.5 approval if you want to nitpick. Any oil with the 229.5 approval would be equivalent to M1 0W40, but you may be able to find something at a lower price point.

Also, if for some reason you wanted to use a C3 rated oil to attempt to address the intake valve deposits, the you can look for any xW30 or xW40 that also carries MB 229.51 spec (low-SAPS version of the 229.5 spec).


Brilliant, cheers for that, it's very helpful.
 
Hi omegaspeedy,

It's been a few weeks, what oil did you end up getting?

I live roughly in the same part of the world as you and I know there are some regional differences with the oils available.

I was at the auto store the other week, and I got some Valvoline full synthetic SynPower. It was on special, about 15 to 20% off.

I noticed they had SynPower XL-III 5w30 which is ACEA A3/B4/C3 and MB 229.51

They also had SynPower FE 5w30 which is ACEA A5/B5 and Ford M2C-913D which I believe is made for the modern Ford EcoBoost engine which I think is a similar turbo GDI engine.

Their prices were good for a full synthetic oil, even before the discount. You might find them suitable for your application.

I'm sure other manufacturers have suitable oils, but Valvoline was on special last week and the others were not…

Regards,
SR5
 
Originally Posted By: SR5
Hi omegaspeedy,

It's been a few weeks, what oil did you end up getting?

I live roughly in the same part of the world as you and I know there are some regional differences with the oils available.

I was at the auto store the other week, and I got some Valvoline full synthetic SynPower. It was on special, about 15 to 20% off.

I noticed they had SynPower XL-III 5w30 which is ACEA A3/B4/C3 and MB 229.51

They also had SynPower FE 5w30 which is ACEA A5/B5 and Ford M2C-913D which I believe is made for the modern Ford EcoBoost engine which I think is a similar turbo GDI engine.

Their prices were good for a full synthetic oil, even before the discount. You might find them suitable for your application.

I'm sure other manufacturers have suitable oils, but Valvoline was on special last week and the others were not…

Regards,
SR5


Thanks for the heads up SR5!

Repco had 40% off for all shell helix oils so I jumped at the chance and bought two packs of Helix Ultra 5W40 full synthetic which will cover my next two changes. I had to decide between 5W30 and 5W40.

In the end I when for the W40 with my logic being that the hydraulic high pressure fuel pump is driven off the cam via four nodes and I believe they are pretty hard on oil so went for the more robust W40 with the A40 spec???

I know that my fuel burn will be slightly higher but I'm not too worried about that. I think the thicker oil will keep a bit more noise down these GDI engines have quiet noisy head gear. Wonder if any other Hyundai GDI owners have tried this and found it reduces noise?

I'm going to dump the factory fill this week. I have 3500km total time on it so the motor should have fully run in by now.

Have I made the right choice between the two offerings?

Here's the 5W40 spec,

API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4, BMW LL-01, MB approval 229.5, 226.5, VW502.00 505.00, Porsche A40, RNO 700, RNO 701 PSA B71 2296, Ferrai, Meets the req of Fait 9.55535-z2, Chrysler MS-10725, MS-12991.
 
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SNAP !!!

I was at REPCO today as well, and I too saw the 40% off Shell oil sale.
It was too much for me to resist and I got the exact same oil as you.
Shell Helix Ultra 5W40, it uses new Gas To Liquid (GTL) technology that I have been reading about, and I think is one of the few (maybe only) oils approved by Ferrari, plus it has Porsche, MB 229.5, etc. Very hard to walk past for the price. The Shell 5W30's I saw didn't carry as many manufacturer approvals, I think the 5W40 is their premier product. Nothing wrong with the 5W30, but I got the 5W40 just like you did.

I believe in America it is very similar to their Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic with PurePlus Technology oil.

I have never used a new GTL oil before. Infact I have never used any Shell product at all before. I'm a Castrol, Penrite and Valvoline sort of guy. But this new oil technology has got me quite interested and I can't wait to give it a go .

My only problem is that the oil in my car is fresh. So it will be almost a year before I get to try this new oil.

You must report back and let me know how it goes when you drop the factory oil and put this new stuff in. I'm very interested to hear you opinion.

Have fun !!
SR5
 
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