offroad motocross 4 stroke Big bore

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Just bought a Honda CRF 450X, same top end as the 450R. This..and ive heard other 450's get hot. I'm going to run Synthetic 10w 40 in the engine side (CRF's are seperate engine/ tranny but use the same grade oil.)

The real question is ive heard/ read that sunthetic oils are too 'slippery' for wet clutch motor cycles. I sounds like " synthetics make your engine leak" nonsense but im new to these bikes. Any input is appreciated.
 
There's no truth to the clutch myth in regards to synthetics. Just use a motorcycle-specific oil and you'll be fine. Rosella 15w-40 would probably work too.
 
450X clutch same as 2 stroke clutch (separate from engine oil). You can pretty much run whatever you want. I normally use MD-3 ATF.
 
After market bigger radiators with fans? I see them on slow moving trail bikes. I would think proper radiator cooling is something I would look at and good dirt bike only synthetics.
 
Shrubitup yes, i used to use bel rey 80W transmission fluid in my 2 smoker, In my new bike honda specifically calls for 10w-40 , I just want to make sure I dont ruin anything by putting synthetic in the transmission side of the bike.
 
Originally Posted By: firegugg
Shrubitup yes, i used to use bel rey 80W transmission fluid in my 2 smoker, In my new bike honda specifically calls for 10w-40 , I just want to make sure I dont ruin anything by putting synthetic in the transmission side of the bike.


The manuals for KX CR YZ RM two smokes also call for 10W30 or 10W40 yet many use MTL or ATF... Same function on the CRF-R or CRF-X bikes.
 
I've got a CRF450R, I've always run 15w40 diesel oil on both sides. Even with synthetics you're fine on the clutch side esp if you stay away from the friction modified car oils. Shoot I bet you'd be ok even with those, lots of people have used those in wet clutch bikes with no slipping, but I've never tried it, don't see the need to experiment when the diesel oils are cheap and available.

FYI the reason I never used synthetic on the engine side is because I'm not going for extended OCI's on the bike and I'm also not good enough to really crank on the engine constantly. I change the oil after about 10 hrs and I feel bad cuz it's still looking fairly new.

Unless you're a competitive rider I see no need to spend more money on oil for the glitzy stuff. IMO people tend to overshoot what they really need when it comes to oil. That clutch/tranny side really doesn't care all that much.
 
The synthetic isnt fpr the lubrication so much as it is for running cooler. Like you i dont push my bike that hard and thats where the heat come in because im not pushing air through the radiator as much as others would going fast all the time.
 
Why not simply use M1, 10W-40 MX4t? It's a robust oil, with an excellent additive package, and it's available at WalMart, Advance Auto Parts and a whole bunch of other locations.

It's good stuff. In fact, the Motul 300V specifications very nearly match the M1. I'd suspect they are made from the exact same stuff. Or at the very least, to the very same specifications.

In any case, I honestly believe the use of other expensive "boutique" oils won't provide more protection or longer engine life, when compared to the M1. It really is that good.
 
I actually bought redline 10w 40 the other day. I had read the Mobil was juat a relabeled mobil 1 syn for autos. (I use that oil in my truck so Im not trying to degrade them) Also ive read a lot of thumper guys using the rotella, whats the advanrage to that one specifics wise?
 
why dose everyone keep saying how good rotella is when it can't pass the noak test?
 
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