I just purchased a 2001 BMW 330ci and did a recent oil change using Mobil 1 0w-40. My question is should I keep using the Mobil 1 or the New Pennzoil Euro? The reason I am asking is because the original owner followed the BMW 15k interval and from what I can see there is a little bit of sludge when I opened the oil cap. I wanted a get a oil that can clean it up slowely, Plus the Mobil 1 is about half the price for me. I live in SC so its usually warm around here around 90F and I will be following a 7500 OCI, Thanks.
Mobil 1 0w-40 or Pennzoil Euro 5w-40???
- Thread starter RussianTech
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Both are great oils. If you can get M1 0w-40 for a lot less, then that's what you should use.
Quote:
The reason I am asking is because the original owner followed the BMW 15k interval and from what I can see there is a little bit of sludge when I opened the oil cap.
Are you sure it's sludge?
The reason I question that is that there is a plastic baffle over the engine, so you really cannot see much when you remove the oil cap. What you can see there is moisture accumulation though, especially if the car is short tripped.
Quote:
The reason I am asking is because the original owner followed the BMW 15k interval and from what I can see there is a little bit of sludge when I opened the oil cap.
Are you sure it's sludge?
The reason I question that is that there is a plastic baffle over the engine, so you really cannot see much when you remove the oil cap. What you can see there is moisture accumulation though, especially if the car is short tripped.
Oh ok, I didnt know that about Mobil 1, So i should shorten my interval to 5k till it cleans some of it? Or keep it at 5k?
http://i.imgur.com/C9TxKmw.jpg?1
Before I cleaned it, It looked sort of like this but not as bad.
http://i.imgur.com/C9TxKmw.jpg?1
Before I cleaned it, It looked sort of like this but not as bad.
Originally Posted By: RussianTech
http://i.imgur.com/C9TxKmw.jpg?1
Before I cleaned it, It looked sort of like this but not as bad.
Mine looked similar when I bought it with 30K miles on the clock. The way it was explained to me was that there is not a whole lot of air movement in that part of the engine, so the stuff just sits there and never gets blown out on its own.
I'm not saying you don't have sludge for sure, but the only way to tell would be to pull the valve cover.
Doing some simple math, the car was doing about 5.5K miles per year on average. If the owner was changing the oil every 15K miles that means once about every 3 years, which is a bit long, IMO. I did a UOA once at 1.5 years (over the course of two winters), and did not like what I saw, so now I change my oil once a year. Granted, where you live winters aren't as extreme as what we have up here.
http://i.imgur.com/C9TxKmw.jpg?1
Before I cleaned it, It looked sort of like this but not as bad.
Mine looked similar when I bought it with 30K miles on the clock. The way it was explained to me was that there is not a whole lot of air movement in that part of the engine, so the stuff just sits there and never gets blown out on its own.
I'm not saying you don't have sludge for sure, but the only way to tell would be to pull the valve cover.
Doing some simple math, the car was doing about 5.5K miles per year on average. If the owner was changing the oil every 15K miles that means once about every 3 years, which is a bit long, IMO. I did a UOA once at 1.5 years (over the course of two winters), and did not like what I saw, so now I change my oil once a year. Granted, where you live winters aren't as extreme as what we have up here.
Either would work well and fight deposits. M1 0w40 has a longer track record, so that's the way I'd lean personally.
Your picture looks a lot like what happened to the filler cap on early Dodge/Jeep 4.7 v8s that were short-tripped, and the explanation was exactly what Pete said. A lack of air movement and a comparatively slow to warm up location allowed moisture to accumulate on the cap and create a nasty little spot of sludge while the rest of the engine remained cleaner.
Your picture looks a lot like what happened to the filler cap on early Dodge/Jeep 4.7 v8s that were short-tripped, and the explanation was exactly what Pete said. A lack of air movement and a comparatively slow to warm up location allowed moisture to accumulate on the cap and create a nasty little spot of sludge while the rest of the engine remained cleaner.
The other thing to note is that no matter how good the oil is, if you really have sludge, it may take a very very very long time to clean it, if at all.
Most oils are good at preventing deposits from forming in the first place, but not good at removing existing deposits.
Most oils are good at preventing deposits from forming in the first place, but not good at removing existing deposits.
Oh, well that is sort a relief... Whenever I change my valve cover gasket I will see what is going on. Also last question is Mobil1 0w-40 good all weather oil, it wont be to thin? Sometimes it even hits 105F here.
Yes, perfectly suitable for your weather conditions. It's as thin/thick as any other Xw-40 oil when at operating temp.
What would be your thoughts on using a conventional
15W40 for a couple of short OCIs instead of a synthetic?
This may not apply to everyone, but I found as synthetic
or mono-grades will clean up following conventionals
the opposite is also true.
15W40 for a couple of short OCIs instead of a synthetic?
This may not apply to everyone, but I found as synthetic
or mono-grades will clean up following conventionals
the opposite is also true.
I'd use the Mobil 1 which speicifically states: "Provides exceptional cleaning power for dirty engines."
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_0W-40.aspx
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_0W-40.aspx
Originally Posted By: buster
I'd use the Mobil 1 which speicifically states: "Provides exceptional cleaning power for dirty engines."
And then you have Pennzoil claiming that Platinum keeps pistons up to 8% cleaner than M1. LOL.
Of course, that comment is in reference to the 5w-30 grade and not the Euro grades.
I do agree that M1 0w-40 has a very strong add pack though.
I'd use the Mobil 1 which speicifically states: "Provides exceptional cleaning power for dirty engines."
And then you have Pennzoil claiming that Platinum keeps pistons up to 8% cleaner than M1. LOL.
Of course, that comment is in reference to the 5w-30 grade and not the Euro grades.
I do agree that M1 0w-40 has a very strong add pack though.
Originally Posted By: RussianTech
Oh ok, I didnt know that about Mobil 1, So i should shorten my interval to 5k till it cleans some of it? Or keep it at 5k?
http://i.imgur.com/C9TxKmw.jpg?1
Before I cleaned it, It looked sort of like this but not as bad.
My E430 fill cap liked yours when it was mostly short trips less than 5-6 miles. It also has a baffle under the fill cap so I couldn't see through it.
You may want to do few shorter OCI's of around 4-5k miles with M1 0W40 which is on roll back at Walmart for $22.xx 5-qt jug. Then extend OCI to 8-10k miles provided that most your trips are more than 10 miles.
Mobil 1 0W40, Castrol Edge 0W40, Pennzoil Euro 5w-40 ... are all good for non-severe 10k miles OCI, I buy on price and availability.
Oh ok, I didnt know that about Mobil 1, So i should shorten my interval to 5k till it cleans some of it? Or keep it at 5k?
http://i.imgur.com/C9TxKmw.jpg?1
Before I cleaned it, It looked sort of like this but not as bad.
My E430 fill cap liked yours when it was mostly short trips less than 5-6 miles. It also has a baffle under the fill cap so I couldn't see through it.
You may want to do few shorter OCI's of around 4-5k miles with M1 0W40 which is on roll back at Walmart for $22.xx 5-qt jug. Then extend OCI to 8-10k miles provided that most your trips are more than 10 miles.
Mobil 1 0W40, Castrol Edge 0W40, Pennzoil Euro 5w-40 ... are all good for non-severe 10k miles OCI, I buy on price and availability.
That's not sludge, but mayonnaise: A mixture of oil and water. Give it a good thrashing once a week or so to boil off the water that has accumulated in the oil and keep the 15k interval.
Euro oils are good for the factory OCI, regardless of what the miles might be. Especially when Shell/Pennzoil is what the manufacturer uses.
Euro oils are good for the factory OCI, regardless of what the miles might be. Especially when Shell/Pennzoil is what the manufacturer uses.
Well I just stocked up on Mobil 1 at Walmart for only $23 for a 5-qt jug. I will try to be a little hard on this oil like Jonny said just to see if it cleans it up better and do the first OCI at 5k then move it to 7.5k-10k. Thanks for all the help and advice guys!
Shine a light in the fill hole. I did on my BMW, and the valvetrain is sort of coated with a thin layer of the reddish brown gunk like that. Thin, but there. Also consider putting in an engine flush (walmart or auto parts store has it) and let it idle for 10 minutes before changing the oil out.
Originally Posted By: RussianTech
I just purchased a 2001 BMW 330ci and did a recent oil change using Mobil 1 0w-40. My question is should I keep using the Mobil 1 or the New Pennzoil Euro? The reason I am asking is because the original owner followed the BMW 15k interval and from what I can see there is a little bit of sludge when I opened the oil cap. I wanted a get a oil that can clean it up slowely, Plus the Mobil 1 is about half the price for me. I live in SC so its usually warm around here around 90F and I will be following a 7500 OCI, Thanks.
BMW no longer follows the 15k oil change, it's been reverted back to 10k or 1 year, which ever comes first.
http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=868291
I just purchased a 2001 BMW 330ci and did a recent oil change using Mobil 1 0w-40. My question is should I keep using the Mobil 1 or the New Pennzoil Euro? The reason I am asking is because the original owner followed the BMW 15k interval and from what I can see there is a little bit of sludge when I opened the oil cap. I wanted a get a oil that can clean it up slowely, Plus the Mobil 1 is about half the price for me. I live in SC so its usually warm around here around 90F and I will be following a 7500 OCI, Thanks.
BMW no longer follows the 15k oil change, it's been reverted back to 10k or 1 year, which ever comes first.
http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=868291
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: RussianTech
I just purchased a 2001 BMW 330ci and did a recent oil change using Mobil 1 0w-40. My question is should I keep using the Mobil 1 or the New Pennzoil Euro? The reason I am asking is because the original owner followed the BMW 15k interval and from what I can see there is a little bit of sludge when I opened the oil cap. I wanted a get a oil that can clean it up slowely, Plus the Mobil 1 is about half the price for me. I live in SC so its usually warm around here around 90F and I will be following a 7500 OCI, Thanks.
Actually Russian Tech, there’s a couple ways you could go with this. We recommend Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 and/or 5W-40 full synthetic motor oils which are all API SN certified.
Here’s why: In the 2001 BMW 330ci Owner’s Manual, we see that the oil specified is: “high performance synthetic motor oil that carries the API SH rating and is a 5W-30 or 5W-40 viscosity grade (both viscosity grades may be used for driving in all various ambient conditions).” With that said, our API SN gasoline oils would fit that description (Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and/or Pennzoil Platinum). If you wanted a little extra anti-wear protection for your older engine, you could go with Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic 5W-40 which has a boosted anti-wear package/zinc level. The gasoline engine oils of today (API SN/ILSAC GF-5) have lowered levels of anti-wear/zinc, they are in the 800 ppm range as compared to what those levels were back in 2001. However, Shell Rotella T6’s zinc level is up in the 1,200 ppm range. We realize Shell Rotella T6 is usually advertised as a “heavy duty diesel engine oil,” but it also carries the API SM gasoline rating, so it can be used in your API SH application. Ultimately, it’s your call, but we hope this info helps! – The Pennzoil Team
I just purchased a 2001 BMW 330ci and did a recent oil change using Mobil 1 0w-40. My question is should I keep using the Mobil 1 or the New Pennzoil Euro? The reason I am asking is because the original owner followed the BMW 15k interval and from what I can see there is a little bit of sludge when I opened the oil cap. I wanted a get a oil that can clean it up slowely, Plus the Mobil 1 is about half the price for me. I live in SC so its usually warm around here around 90F and I will be following a 7500 OCI, Thanks.
Actually Russian Tech, there’s a couple ways you could go with this. We recommend Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 and/or 5W-40 full synthetic motor oils which are all API SN certified.
Here’s why: In the 2001 BMW 330ci Owner’s Manual, we see that the oil specified is: “high performance synthetic motor oil that carries the API SH rating and is a 5W-30 or 5W-40 viscosity grade (both viscosity grades may be used for driving in all various ambient conditions).” With that said, our API SN gasoline oils would fit that description (Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and/or Pennzoil Platinum). If you wanted a little extra anti-wear protection for your older engine, you could go with Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic 5W-40 which has a boosted anti-wear package/zinc level. The gasoline engine oils of today (API SN/ILSAC GF-5) have lowered levels of anti-wear/zinc, they are in the 800 ppm range as compared to what those levels were back in 2001. However, Shell Rotella T6’s zinc level is up in the 1,200 ppm range. We realize Shell Rotella T6 is usually advertised as a “heavy duty diesel engine oil,” but it also carries the API SM gasoline rating, so it can be used in your API SH application. Ultimately, it’s your call, but we hope this info helps! – The Pennzoil Team
Originally Posted By: RussianTech
I just purchased a 2001 BMW 330ci and did a recent oil change using Mobil 1 0w-40. My question is should I keep using the Mobil 1 or the New Pennzoil Euro? The reason I am asking is because the original owner followed the BMW 15k interval and from what I can see there is a little bit of sludge when I opened the oil cap. I wanted a get a oil that can clean it up slowely, Plus the Mobil 1 is about half the price for me. I live in SC so its usually warm around here around 90F and I will be following a 7500 OCI, Thanks.
Use the Mobil 1 0W-40. 15K oil changes are a bit excessive, what oil did the previous owner use? What does the manufacturer recommend as far as viscosity. I have heard that BMW says either 5W-40 or 5W-30.
As far as Euro car oil, I pretty much think that is mostly [censored].
Since you have a 2001, I can assume it is high mileage. Mobil 1 makes a full synthetic 10W-40 in their high mileage formula and since you live in SC(does not get that cold).
I just purchased a 2001 BMW 330ci and did a recent oil change using Mobil 1 0w-40. My question is should I keep using the Mobil 1 or the New Pennzoil Euro? The reason I am asking is because the original owner followed the BMW 15k interval and from what I can see there is a little bit of sludge when I opened the oil cap. I wanted a get a oil that can clean it up slowely, Plus the Mobil 1 is about half the price for me. I live in SC so its usually warm around here around 90F and I will be following a 7500 OCI, Thanks.
Use the Mobil 1 0W-40. 15K oil changes are a bit excessive, what oil did the previous owner use? What does the manufacturer recommend as far as viscosity. I have heard that BMW says either 5W-40 or 5W-30.
As far as Euro car oil, I pretty much think that is mostly [censored].
Since you have a 2001, I can assume it is high mileage. Mobil 1 makes a full synthetic 10W-40 in their high mileage formula and since you live in SC(does not get that cold).
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