What parts do YOU buy aftermarket or OEM?

[Scum_Frog]

Originally Posted By: Nick1994
And for the Beetle I usually buy the filters from the dealer, they're usually cheaper and they get the job done.


Just recently replaced the air filter on my Jetta 2.0T and was very surprised by the fact VW had their OEM filter (MAHLE I believe)at a better price than NAPA's - Gold, Mann or MAHLE.

As far as OE vs Aftermarket, it really all depends on the part, performance, price, etc. Something's are just worth going OE while others aftermarket may actually give you a better product. Sometimes price is the winning factor.

 

[DuckRyder]

I buy mostly OE from online discount dealers.

I don't understand (and I'm talking generally here, not anyone specific) why folks buy a certain brand of car, presumably the quality and durability of which is a significant consideration, then put the cheapest aftermarket junk they can find on it when it needs something.

Sometimes you can source the exact same part after market (examples , BMW/Mercedes radiators with the emblem obliterated, Volvo water pumps with volvo ground off) and I'm fine with those. Other times you cannot get the same part (example belt tensioner for escort, motorcraft aftermarket not the same as dealer).

It there is an aftermarket solution to a known problem those too, but as a general rule OE. (excepting some filters, batteries, most fluids, spark plugs and such)

 

[addyguy]

Almost all aftermarket...Canadian Tire, Benson's, Brown's, NAPA...

Don't bother with dealerships much.

 

[Number_35]

I've learned the hard way to not use after-market water pumps.

Mazda has brought its prices in line in the last few years. It's now always worth checking the dealer first. For a critical part (e.g. hydraulic tensioner for timing belt) I'll buy from the dealer without question.

 

[glock19]

Originally Posted By: DuckRyder

Sometimes you can source the exact same part after market (examples , BMW/Mercedes radiators with the emblem obliterated, Volvo water pumps with volvo ground off) and I'm fine with those.


I found out the hard way that Volvo wants a pretty penny for those.

 

[Cujet]

I've truly given up on aftermarket parts for typical repairs. It's become quite difficult to find quality parts. Most are made overseas and are crude copies of the original.

There are a few exceptions. Example: Ford's F150 HVAC actuators have a high fail rate here in South Florida. Purchasing an OEM part known to fail, and known not to be updated, makes zero sense. I'll take my chances with the Chinese copy. The Chinese copy is actually a bit of a re-design and people have had success with them.

However, when it comes to critical parts, OEM all the way.

 

[exranger06]

I used to buy aftermarket everything for my cars, but after some bad experiences with aftermarket parts, I'm starting to get more and more OEM stuff. I used to buy everything at Napa because I work there and get a really good discount, but now there are some things I just will not buy there. I will spend 3-5 times as much for an OEM part if it means I don't have to deal with replacing junk parts two or three times (or more) more often than I should have to. If an aftermarket part costs half as much, but only lasts half as long (or less) than an OEM part, are you really saving any money? I can get Motorcraft parts pretty cheap on Rockauto, and Hondapartsunlimited.com and Hondapartsnow.com has pretty good prices on Honda OEM parts.

Things I buy aftermarket: Filters, accessory belts, suspension parts, shocks, batteries, wheel bearings, brake parts, U-joints, hoses, AC hoses and driers, gaskets, and probably some more stuff I can't remember.

Things I buy OEM: sensors and switches, timing belts, water pumps, AC compressors, spark plugs, PCV valves, pretty much anything that isn't available aftermarket, other random stuff where I find the aftermarket quality is no good.

 

[ARB1977]

CV shafts and brake pads are generally aftermarket. Everything else is OE.

 

[SLCraig]

I just refuse to go OE if the price is way more.
I called Honda about brake parts a few weeks back, and the prices were insane. I went with the Napa premium rotors and pads for about $200 less (just parts alone) and I am very happy with them!

Sometimes OE is fine, sometimes its just not worth it to me. Now electrical parts or certain items I think should only be OE. Other things are totally up in the air if you ask me. (based on price availability etc)

 

[Nick1994]

Originally Posted By: SLCraig
I just refuse to go OE if the price is way more.
I called Honda about brake parts a few weeks back, and the prices were insane. I went with the Napa premium rotors and pads for about $200 less (just parts alone) and I am very happy with them!

Sometimes OE is fine, sometimes its just not worth it to me. Now electrical parts or certain items I think should only be OE. Other things are totally up in the air if you ask me. (based on price availability etc)
I agree, OEM prices can be ridiculous. I put new tie rod ends on the Beetle last week and bought Moog Problem Solvers, $17 each on Amazon with free shipping (I have Prime). The dealership wanted $50 each!

Although I use my buddy's accounts at all the dealerships and get 20%-30% off all dealer parts.

 

[01rangerxl]

Originally Posted By: exranger06
I used to buy aftermarket everything for my cars, but after some bad experiences with aftermarket parts, I'm starting to get more and more OEM stuff. I used to buy everything at Napa because I work there and get a really good discount, but now there are some things I just will not buy there. I will spend 3-5 times as much for an OEM part if it means I don't have to deal with replacing junk parts two or three times (or more) more often than I should have to. If an aftermarket part costs half as much, but only lasts half as long (or less) than an OEM part, are you really saving any money? I can get Motorcraft parts pretty cheap on Rockauto, and Hondapartsunlimited.com and Hondapartsnow.com has pretty good prices on Honda OEM parts.

Things I buy aftermarket: Filters, accessory belts, suspension parts, shocks, batteries, wheel bearings, brake parts, U-joints, hoses, AC hoses and driers, gaskets, and probably some more stuff I can't remember.

Things I buy OEM: sensors and switches, timing belts, water pumps, AC compressors, spark plugs, PCV valves, pretty much anything that isn't available aftermarket, other random stuff where I find the aftermarket quality is no good.


I feel like Napa house brand probably was a solid/reliable choice until sometime in the last decade. They have started sourcing a lot of their OE Solutions house brand parts from Dorman, so the quality has gone down accordingly.

 

[dishdude]

Is A1 Cardone still around? When I was slinging parts they were the absolute bottom of the barrel.

 

[Tyleryac]

I try to use Motorcraft OEM when I can. If the part is too expensive I will go with a good aftermarket part.

 

[Mitch]

I have always used oem oil/fuel filters, sensors, and injectors. Everything else is fair game

 

[01rangerxl]

Originally Posted By: dishdude
Is A1 Cardone still around? When I was slinging parts they were the absolute bottom of the barrel.


Yep, they are still around. They supply a lot of reman parts.

They aren't always the worst, at least since Dorman started making some of the same things. For example, with the cam synchro on the Ford 3.0 Vulcan, the A1 Cardone reman is generally regarded as okay on Ranger and Taurus boards, but a lot of people had problems with the new Dorman ones. The Dorman synchros were failing in as little as 10K miles. A Motorcraft is the preferred replacement since there are no better aftermarket alternatives for this part.

 

[TiredTrucker]

What is fascinating about the OEM vs aftermarket thing, is that most of the stuff is made by the same outfit. I have hauled production auto parts into vehicle assembly plants for decades, and the OEM's make very little of what goes into a vehicle. They just assemble stuff. Axles, brakes, engine valves, seats, lights, and the list goes on and on, are made by out sourced manufacturing. The same manufacturers will also brand similar parts right off the same line for another entity. Cat filters, for one, are made by Donaldson. Cat batteries are made by Deka/East Penn, who also makes batteries for O'Reilly's and a host of other outlets. Lear makes seats for GM and Ford, and also makes valves for Ford motors and gears for Cadillac transmissions, and a thousand other products.

I don't worry too much about the OEM vs aftermarket thing. I look at who is making the aftermarket product though, as I have developed a pretty good familiarity with who is making what for the OEM's.

 

[Hokiefyd]

I typically buy OEM when I can. Although OEM parts are often sourced from a third party (such as Honeywell, or Federal Mogul, etc), they're often made to different specifications, and the quality often differs considerably. An OEM serpentine belt, for example, may be sourced by Dayco, but that doesn't mean that the Dayco you can buy at Advance for 20 bucks will be as good as the OEM belt that costs $40.

I've put a lot of parts on a lot of different cars and, like some here have said about themselves, I used to used anything I could get in a retail store. Heck, I used to work at Advance Auto in college, so I had ready access to the aftermarket. Over the past number of years, however, I've started to prefer OEM parts due to quality and durability superiority over some of the generic parts that compete based on cost and warranty duration.

 

[camrydriver111]

I like OEM manufacturer parts. Sometimes they are exactly the same as the OEM parts at the dealer except without the branding and the massive cost.

For generic parts like brakes, pulleys, belts, spark plugs, filters, etc. I would go with aftermarket. For specialty parts - OEM.

 

[JFK]

The deeper into the power-train the part goes the more likely I am to use OEM.

Camshaft or Lifters OEM alternator or starter Autozone Duralast.

External Tensioner aftermarket Internal Tensioner OEM etc....

It tends to be the small parts that trip you up. So aftermarket pistons or wristpins from reputable manufacture seem to be just fine but parts like timing belt or timing chain tensioners, cam phasing solenoids, lifters seem to fail at a much higher rate than OEM.

 

[HangFire]

The question is so situation dependent that there's no one answer. Each vehicle and part must be researched for the best value.

For example the power window elevator on Dakota doors goes out at some point. Put in a Mopar and it'll break again in the same place. So, I went Dorman. Some other Dorman parts I wouldn't touch with a ten foot pole. I wouldn't touch a chain store rebuilt master cylinder with a ten foot pole, since they rarely fail if I ever did have to replace it, it would be Mopar. Ditto clutch master cylinder and in that case, any of the Mopar online dealers will beat the chain stores on price.