New car dealer question

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It is a bogus fee designed to increase profits and screw the customer willing to pay it. I say run away from that dealership, and Mitsubishi cars. When I sold used cars I had a saying it went like this: "If you want a enemy, sell someone a Mitsubishi." Boy was that the truth for me. No offense to any Bitog Mitsubishi owners!
 
I thought the $79 documentation fee was ridiculous my local dealers throw in there.

In regards to destination fees. ~$800 seems to be the norm. There's no getting out of that.

When we got my mom her new 2015 Camry LE a few weeks ago, even though I told them flat out we were not interested in any extended warranty, etc, we still had to sit through the finance manager's pitch on it, along with a video, etc. I can't believe how much [censored] they include in this now.

Extended B/B warranty
Glass etching
Fabric Protection
Paint Protection
Paintless dent repair
Wheel/Tire extended warranty

This was about $2700 all-in. Laughable.

When we went back to pick the car up, the salesman handed me a sticky note, with a "final offer" for all the above. $1200.

They "still couldn't believe" we would go without it.
 
Originally Posted By: chainblu
Do the seat belts not work as well?


I'm not sure if this is a serious question, but I'll answer it anyway. The entire body of the vehicle, along with the primary and secondary restraint systems, is part of one big system that protects you in a crash. In airbag timing, milliseconds matter. That's why aftermarket bumper components and sheet metal really shouldn't be used in collision repair; they will collapse differently than OEM parts in a crash, and that will affect airbag timing. It's also why certain metals can only be heated XX seconds to YYY degrees during repairs - if they become brittle, they will perform differently in an accident and affect airbag timing. Windshields are also a structural component of your unibody, so it's worth it to pay for the upgrade from NAGS to OEM. The aftermarket bottom-feeders even make imitation core supports now. You probably didn't think that your passenger seat cushion was part of the airbag system, but it contains an occupant classification module which decides whether to fire the passenger airbag based on the passenger's weight. One often-overlooked part: the hood has to absorb crash energy AND not peel apart and come through the windshield. Honda is currently considering a position statement which would list your bumper cover (yes, the thin plastic fascia) as part of the vehicle's structure. After all, everything that breaks in an accident DID absorb crash energy. Then, of course, you have the airbags. Every current production passenger vehicle is federally required to have something like 11 airbags, including a knee bolster airbag and curtain airbags.

So, to answer your question: maybe. It's not that simple.
 
Originally Posted By: Ethan1

So, to answer your question: maybe. It's not that simple.


OK. And yes, I was serious.
The reason I asked is when I was younger (and dumber) I was in some pretty bad accidents. This was before airbags. Every time, the seatbelt did it's job and kept me contained within the vehicle without the aid of an airbag. In fact I never even came close to hitting a windshield.

I would hope that today's cars could offer similar protection in case of a total airbag system failure (for whatever reason).
 
Originally Posted By: MCompact
Another vote here for negotiating an OTD price. I want the final dollar amount for the check I'm going to write. I don't care how the dealer wants to break the numbers out- all I care about is the total amount I'm going to pay.

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I'd think you could get a Soul or Cruze for $16k, that thing looks like a golf cart.
 
Originally Posted By: MCompact
Another vote here for negotiating an OTD price. I want the final dollar amount for the check I'm going to write. I don't care how the dealer wants to break the numbers out- all I care about is the total amount I'm going to pay.


OTD price is the only price that matters. I like to have them list their math though, just to break balls a bit. But I sold cars and I know exactly what and how they're thinking.
 
Originally Posted By: chainblu

My question is: What is a Documentary fee??


The doc fee, which goes by a number of other names as well, pays for all of the paperwork and personnel involved in processing the transaction and that don't get other revenue from the transaction. I have no problem with the fee, but your $799 figure is extremely excessive.
 
The listed fees absolutely don't matter. They should never be a topic of discussion in a car negotiation. Bottom line drive out price is all that matters. They can list $379.95 for clown car rentals and $68.49 for pizza on my invoice. I don't care. The only line item to negotiate is the total drive out price (plus local tax, tag, and title). Make 3 or more dealers provide you with written total drive out price (plus tax, tag, title) via email, compare the 3 for best offer. Call each and tell them you have a low offer and ask if they can beat that offer by a min of $300. Pick the one that wants to earn your business.
 
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Originally Posted By: cashmoney
The listed fees absolutely don't matter. They should never be a topic of discussion in a car negotiation. Bottom line drive out price is all that matters. They can list $379.95 for clown car rentals and $68.49 for pizza on my invoice. I don't care. The only line item to negotiate is the total drive out price (plus local tax, tag, and title). Make 3 or more dealers provide you with written total drive out price (plus tax, tag, title) via email, compare the 3 for best offer. Call each and tell them you have a low offer and ask if they can beat that offer by a min of $300. Pick the one that wants to earn your business.
That is the way to buy cars. This is the best advice. I thought I had to pull teeth last time I bought a new car. All they want to talk about is per month/ how much can you afford per month? I want out the door, tax title down the road. I don't need Truecar, I don't need consumer reports. I will worry about my own financing. Just give me the number OTD, 2 out of 5 Dodge dealers could not give me that number. I ended up buying from the best price and then got them to throw in Hemi stickers and floormats. It your money your playing with.
 
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
...2 out of 5 Dodge dealers could not give me that number. I ended up buying from the best price and then got them to throw in Hemi stickers and floormats. It your money your playing with.


I had a similar experience lately when car shopping for my mom. It took 3 Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep dealers before one gave me an OTD quote by email.

What surprised me was Toyota and Honda quoted OTD prices literally within minutes. I did not expect that.
 
Originally Posted By: chainblu
Yesterday I was kicking some tires at the Mitsubishi dealer and looking at a Mirage for my wife to run around town in.


That's your problem right there!!!
 
That overlap test tripped everyone up. Lots of models got dinged for that--doesn't bother me, cars are still safer than ten years ago.

The rest of the scores seem fine.
 
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