Motul 300V

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: BusyLittleShop
Originally Posted By: sunruh

number 4 will shock quite a few people. and it might even be #1 in certain conditions.....castrol syntec 0w30 (gc) as good as maxima 10w40 but thinner and more shear stable. think about that.


Oh yea... thin is in... less oil drag = more RWHP...


haha, that made your day...
cheers3.gif
 
German Castrol is on the verge of being a 40 weight and being SL rated has more zddp in it. Has to be rated that in order to pass the requirements of various German vehicles.

I have used it extensively in my flat tappet V8's with moderately aggressive cams.
 
Originally Posted By: rraiderr
Any UOA's on the oil?

I wonder is Sunrah has tested it.

I know lot's of people that use it in the racing community but know a lot that use Rotella.

Still waiting to see an oil related failure in the current generation of bikes.
It's just not KUEL to use Rotella.
 
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
German Castrol is on the verge of being a 40 weight


0-30 will put the Speed back in your Speedmaster...
 
Originally Posted By: BusyLittleShop
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
German Castrol is on the verge of being a 40 weight


0-30 will put the Speed back in your Speedmaster...



Or blow it up since it specs a 50 weight oil. Not to mention that some have reported low pressure lights being tickled with even sheared 40 weight Rotella T6 in hot summer months.

I will keep my 10w50
 
Originally Posted By: BusyLittleShop
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
German Castrol is on the verge of being a 40 weight


0-30 will put the Speed back in your Speedmaster...



Or blow it up since it specs a 50 weight oil. Not to mention that some have reported low pressure lights being tickled with even sheared 40 weight Rotella T6 in hot summer months.

I will keep my 10w50...works well in the bike. I only care the oil protects my engine. If I want fast, I will get a different machine. 120mph is plenty fast enough for what I need from my cruiser.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Robenstein


Or blow it up since it specs a 50 weight oil.


If it blows on anything but a 50 weight then its on Triumph because they also spec a 40
weight which has range between 12.5 cST and 16.0 cST... like you said the 0w30Gc is on
the verge of a 40 with a high of 11.7 cST... the difference is only 0.8 cSt freer
flowing... not a big enough difference to blow an engine...

Quote Triumph...
"Triumph high performance engines are designed to use semi or fully synthetic 10W/40 or
15W/50 specification API-SH or higher (i.e. SJ, SK or SL)"
 
Last edited:
Of course you don't account for shear in your calculations. The recommended oil change interval is 6,000 miles. In that time the trans tends to shear the oil heavily. So your 50 weights end up in the 40s, your 40s in the 30s. There is some leeway there, but not as much as you are promoting. At some point there is a line where oil gets too thin. If heavily sheared 5w40 can tickle the low pressure sensor at a hot idle, what do you think heavily sheared 30 weight will do? The same or worse. I am pretty sure the factory thought of that when they came up with their viscosity requirements.

A v4 liquid cooled engine is not an analog for all other bike engines.
 
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Of course you don't account for shear in your calculations. The recommended oil change interval is 6,000 miles. In that time the trans tends to shear the oil heavily. So your 50 weights end up in the 40s, your 40s in the 30s. There is some leeway there, but not as much as you are promoting. At some point there is a line where oil gets too thin. If heavily sheared 5w40 can tickle the low pressure sensor at a hot idle, what do you think heavily sheared 30 weight will do? The same or worse. I am pretty sure the factory thought of that when they came up with their viscosity requirements.

A v4 liquid cooled engine is not an analog for all other bike engines.



Agreed.

And more specifically, a particular liquid cooled V4 does not represent all other engines which are operated in their respective intended applications.

When DUCATI tell me I'm best served by running a thinner oil than a full synthetic 15w-50 grade in my climate then I'll consider it.
At the end of the day, I don't need those 2-3 extra horsepower anyway as I can leave those Hondas for dead from a standing start at rpm's that are well below the peak power rating.
I also know the transmission is best protected from the power pulses and torque from the L-Twin engine.
 
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Of course you don't account for shear in your calculations.
A v4 liquid cooled engine is not an analog for all other bike engines.


Mercy Rob this has nothing to do with me or my bike... Triumph accounted for shear in
their calculations... the factory tested that when they came up with their 40 weight
viscosity requirement for 6,000 recommended oil change interval... it is written so owners
don't have to worry about running a either a 40 or 50 for 6K... they will both meet or
exceed your mileage expectations... Thrust in Triumph and stop fearing the shear... they do
know what they are talking about...
 
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
If you believe they know what they are talking about, why recommend that I run a thinner oil than they specify?


I recommend it because you said the 0w30Gc is on the verge of a 40 with a high of 11.7
cSt... that is true because it's only 0.8 cSt away from a 40... and given Sunruh's test fact
it proved to very shear stable... its possible for this high grade 0w30Gc could shear less
than an a lower grade 40... so going by the actual cSt numbers over time this oil could
prove to be more suitable than a 40... 0w30 would still keep your knees in the breeze...
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: BusyLittleShop
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
If you believe they know what they are talking about, why recommend that I run a thinner oil than they specify?


I recommend it because you said the 0w30Gc is on the verge of a 40 with a high of 11.7
cSt... that is true because it's only 0.8 cSt away from a 40... and given Sunruh's test fact
it proved to very shear stable... its possible for this high grade 0w30Gc could shear less
than an a lower grade 40... so going by the actual cSt numbers over time this oil could
prove to be more suitable than a 40... 0w30 would still keep your knees in the breeze...


That's probably the most rational post I've read concerning your fascination with alternative viscosities. It actually makes sense.

I would still stick with a prescribed SAE grade from the manual for the machine in question, though. Some would be disturbed by my use of 5w40 in the R1200 camhead engine, but I'm not bothered as it is a prescribed viscosity for these ambient temperatures.
 
Originally Posted By: BusyLittleShop
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
If you believe they know what they are talking about, why recommend that I run a thinner oil than they specify?


I recommend it because you said the 0w30Gc is on the verge of a 40 with a high of 11.7
cSt... that is true because it's only 0.8 cSt away from a 40... and given Sunruh's test fact
it proved to very shear stable... its possible for this high grade 0w30Gc could shear less
than an a lower grade 40... so going by the actual cSt numbers over time this oil could
prove to be more suitable than a 40... 0w30 would still keep your knees in the breeze...



"could" and "possible" are not things I put much stock in when it comes to expensive machines. And again...I run 50wt oil, so the jump is significant. When my 50wt shears down to a 40wt I end up dumping it because the shift quality gets poor and the top end noise gets pronounced. I noticed the same with the 10w40 factory fill from the get go till I had it dumped at 500 miles at the first service.

What I am doing is working well. These engines almost always need some valve shims replaced at the checks every 12k. So far mine are still all well within specs. Meaning my top end is very happy with my choices. Which I appreciate since the engine requires pulling the cams to put shims in.
 
Originally Posted By: Robenstein

"could" and "possible" are not things I put much stock in when it comes to expensive machines. And again...I run 50wt oil, so the jump is significant. When my 50wt shears down to a 40wt I end up dumping it because the shift quality gets poor and the top end noise gets pronounced. I noticed the same with the 10w40 factory fill from the get go till I had it dumped at 500 miles at the first service.

What I am doing is working well. These engines almost always need some valve shims replaced at the checks every 12k. So far mine are still all well within specs. Meaning my top end is very happy with my choices. Which I appreciate since the engine requires pulling the cams to put shims in.


To cap we established that you can run a 40 and that you don't need a
50 to keep your engine from blowing... Whether an owner chooses a 40
or a 50 both oils according to Triumph will meet and exceed mileage
expectations at 6K OCI... it's just you prefer a 50 and dump it below
OCI for the reasons stated above... no problem Rob I can respect that...
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

I
Help me decide, Aircooled 70s CB350 Race Engine Oil - Lost in choices
Replies
9
Views
1K
KrisZ
I
"Best" FCPEuro A40 / C40 Oil
2 3 4
Replies
63
Views
4K
raaizin
R
Motul 7100 10W40 vs Ipone Full Power Katana 10W40 Ester for Yamaha MT25
Replies
6
Views
2K
BusyLittleShop
R
JASO Wet Clutch Additive?
2 3
Replies
59
Views
1K
thastinger
edyvw
Pennzoil Used oil Analysis participation program: Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40 and Motul X-Cess 5W40 GEN2
Replies
17
Views
3K
edyvw
Back
Top