2000 Land Cruiser 2UZ-fe 4.7 v8

Status
Not open for further replies.
M

milwaukee

Joined
May 24, 2006
Messages
852
Location
east TN
Anyone have any opinions on choosing an oil for this thing?

Doing my usual oil OCD with this vehicle I found some interesting stuff. This vehicle is the same the world over. Same motor, same tune, same everything. They make a diesel version but as far as the gasoline v8/"petrol" engine it is the same.

From Castrol South Africa
20w-50

Castrol Australia
5w-30, 10w-30, or 10w-40

Of course everything North America is all 5w-30 all the time every time.

What do you all think?

I've been to Australia and its hotter where I live in the 3 summer months than I have ever saw it in Australia. I've never been to South Africa but it seems pretty mild compared to the southeastern US in the summer.

I'm wondering if Synthetic HDEO 5w-40 might not be optimal for this engine. I've never saw a bad UOA with this motor on anything so it may not matter but this site would not exist if not for OCD car people looking for the last .005% benefit from and an oil choice.
 
Check my signature for the oil I use.

We use these engines in a mining operation. They drive a ball mill and get worked much harder than in a vehicle.

We use 2 different oils, Red Line 0w-30 and Renewable Lube 0w-30. The typical work cycle is 8-12 hours fully loaded at 3-4K rpm. Then several days off and back to work, again.

These Toyota V8's replaced industrial engines that cost $12K each. We just by a wrecked Toyota pickup or SUV, convert it to natural gas and install it into the system. These engines produce more power, use less fuel and require less maintenance.

We do use a much larger air filter system and an oil cooler with about double the oil capacity and some modifications to the cooling system but other than the conversion to natural gas the engine itself is not touched. I can't answer the question how long will these engines last because so far we've failed to wear one out. The only maintenance problem we've had is mufflers wearing out and we are converting them to a home brewed system and that appears to work. Here we don't have to worry about size and weight and we think we have the problem solved.

If you can wear out one of these engines in a motor vehicle given reasonable maintenance and driving conditions I'd be surprised.
 
I just did an oil change and used M1 0w40 in my 4.7. I had the same in there last time, but with 1.5 qrts of M1 5w30 HM. A sample has been sent off to Blackstone.

Not that I expected any issues, but there were none. Not even a drop in mpg with the heavier weight. Engine runs really smooth.

Easy oil to get a hold of and stellar reviews = simple choice.
 
The 4.7 Toyota is one of the easiest engines on oil. It shows virtually no wear under normal operation.

No need to overthink this...you can run whatever you want to, but a basic 5W-30 will work fine for as long as you want to run it.
 
Here in Aus I'd use 10w40 without second thought. 90% of Aussies live on the coast which means these areas don't get too hot in summer or too cold in winter. I think if I lived in the snowy mountains it would be a 5w40 and if I lived in the desert a 15w50
 
It will not matter what you run in this.

Rotella-T 5W40, Redline 5W30, Amsoil HD 5W30, Mobil-1 5W30, 10W30,5W40, 15W50, Motul 5W30 will all work great.

In fact if you look hard enough even cheap dino oil in the 5W30 range turns in great wear numbers in this engine in spite of shearing out of grade. Mileage does not matter much for the OCI. Time and filtration are what matter's. These engines do not do well once you push them past 6 months on the OCI. Insolubles go out of range by about month 9 onward.

Since Rotella-T and Mobil-1 are dirt cheap at Walmart and perform flawlessly in this engine I would chose one of those and call it good.
Replace the PCV since this is a regular source of insoluble issues on Toyota's!

If you search this site you will see some other UOA's on this site on this engine!
 
Oil recommendation for this engine in USA are based in order of priority on:

1. Emissions
2. Fuel economy
3. Wear

They also changed the interval for USA..
When in Dubai, the Gulf manuals recommended up to 5W/10W-40 syn and 20W-50 conventional. [My Cruiser had a very nice fridge in the center console there)
 
I used to run RT6 in my LX450 but switched to T5 for this cycle. does your OM mention 10W-30 as an option for warm temps? My OM for the LX450 does recommend 10W-30 for temps above 90 deg.
You can't go wrong with RT6, T5, or M1 HM 5W-30 if you want to stay PCMO & completely within spec.
I even ran GC in it once, and it loved that too.
What filters do u use?
 
I use a Motorcraft FL-400s on this currently. I chose it because of the threaded end bypass, silicone ADBV, prior satisfied use, and the overall good reputation of Motorcraft filters. Threaded bypass and silicone adbv for under $4 seems like a bargain to me. This is also an oversized filter for the OEM spec which is a tiny filter.

I'm leaning to one of the HDEO 5w-40 oils but I'm not sure it really matters here. I would prefer an OCI of 5K regardless of time so I can consolidate tire rotations with oil changes. My guess is 6-10 months to accumulate 5K miles.
 
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
I use an M1-209 oil filter on my 4Runner. It's longer, has more media and holds a few ounces more oil, all for the same price.


Do you know if that has the same by-pass setting as the correct replacement filter?

I don't believe in the longer is better theory in filters. Flow rates and by-pass settings are much more important factors, than just size of the filter.
 
Originally Posted By: milwaukee
I use a Motorcraft FL-400s on this currently. I chose it because of the threaded end bypass, silicone ADBV, prior satisfied use, and the overall good reputation of Motorcraft filters. Threaded bypass and silicone adbv for under $4 seems like a bargain to me. This is also an oversized filter for the OEM spec which is a tiny filter.

I'm leaning to one of the HDEO 5w-40 oils but I'm not sure it really matters here. I would prefer an OCI of 5K regardless of time so I can consolidate tire rotations with oil changes. My guess is 6-10 months to accumulate 5K miles.



Motorcraft filters are made by Purolator. Until they get their tearing issues sorted out, I would be a little nervous running any P made filter. Wix has the same features you're looking for (threaded end bypass, silicone ADBV) for less than $5 also.
5W-40 HDEO is a good choice... you might be able to save some money on the oil, and slightly better fuel mileage with the T5. I believe a 10W-30 is an option for your engine per the OM, for temps above 90deg. The T5 is also an engergy conserving oil, which OM specs.
 
Originally Posted By: JFK
It will not matter what you run in this.

Rotella-T 5W40, Redline 5W30, Amsoil HD 5W30, Mobil-1 5W30, 10W30,5W40, 15W50, Motul 5W30 will all work great.

In fact if you look hard enough even cheap dino oil in the 5W30 range turns in great wear numbers in this engine in spite of shearing out of grade. Mileage does not matter much for the OCI. Time and filtration are what matter's. These engines do not do well once you push them past 6 months on the OCI. Insolubles go out of range by about month 9 onward.

Since Rotella-T and Mobil-1 are dirt cheap at Walmart and perform flawlessly in this engine I would chose one of those and call it good.
Replace the PCV since this is a regular source of insoluble issues on Toyota's!

If you search this site you will see some other UOA's on this site on this engine!


Where to start on this one......
Wear rates cannot be accurately measured via used oil analysis.
Insols is a filtration issue,not an oil issue so that point is moot,especially that 6-9 month nonsense and time is a tbn issue.
So most of your post is carp.
But it sounds like you know what your talking about
 
Originally Posted By: Hessam
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
I use an M1-209 oil filter on my 4Runner. It's longer, has more media and holds a few ounces more oil, all for the same price.


Do you know if that has the same by-pass setting as the correct replacement filter?

I don't believe in the longer is better theory in filters. Flow rates and by-pass settings are much more important factors, than just size of the filter.



The settings are exactly the same. The oil passes through the media of the longer filter just a tiny bit slower and it holds a few ounces more and radiates off just a tiny bit more heat and all for the same price.

I was working on a generator project for extreme cold weather. We were using all Mobil products under contract and one of my contacts inside Mobil not only confirmed the settings, he's the one that suggested the swap because he did the same on his 4Runner. He said it was not official because he only worked in engineering, not sales. He said that some 4.7 installations would not accept the longer filter.

By the way he said that getting those little extras may not make a much of difference you could quantify but when it comes to 10 to 20 year of ownership and hundreds of thousands of miles, every little bit helps.

I have kept the Honda DD in my sig for 31 years, so far with no plans to sell it and it's the same for the 4Runner. Having cars that are paid for is comforting.
 
I run a 2007 Toyota 4Runner V8 and honestly in Colorado's hot summers and very cold winters...

Using 5W-30 synthetic, formerly Pennzoil Platinum and now Mobil EP...

The 4Runner's engine has never missed a single beat.

During warranty, OCI every six months or 7500 miles.

After extended warranty, once a year or 10K miles.

I wouldn't overthink this engine... it's THAT good on oil.
 
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Check my signature for the oil I use.

We use these engines in a mining operation. They drive a ball mill and get worked much harder than in a vehicle.

We use 2 different oils, Red Line 0w-30 and Renewable Lube 0w-30. The typical work cycle is 8-12 hours fully loaded at 3-4K rpm. Then several days off and back to work, again.

These Toyota V8's replaced industrial engines that cost $12K each. We just by a wrecked Toyota pickup or SUV, convert it to natural gas and install it into the system. These engines produce more power, use less fuel and require less maintenance.

We do use a much larger air filter system and an oil cooler with about double the oil capacity and some modifications to the cooling system but other than the conversion to natural gas the engine itself is not touched. I can't answer the question how long will these engines last because so far we've failed to wear one out. The only maintenance problem we've had is mufflers wearing out and we are converting them to a home brewed system and that appears to work. Here we don't have to worry about size and weight and we think we have the problem solved.

If you can wear out one of these engines in a motor vehicle given reasonable maintenance and driving conditions I'd be surprised.


BITOG needs more stories like this. Fascinating. I'd love to see that setup.
 
First UOA is valid means of trending wear data. If you know how to use trending data it is a great way to get a peek inside an engine or any other machine.

I guarantee you when Porsche is doing the replicated dyno based Dusseldorf run during engine validation they are doing UOA as well.They are also tearing it down to correlate all of the data into a complete picture.

Yes everyone knows insoluble are filtration related not oil related. The problem is that they are suspended in the oil and short of adding bypass filtration to this application can not be removed other then getting the oil that is now full of them out of the crankcase.I should not need to explain this to oil geeks this is a Tribology 101 "given" LTP as we say in gaming...LOL

Learn to use google search function and you can search this site's UOA for this engine even if you have no practical experience with it and see that around the 9th month they all start to go out of range for insoluble regardless of mileage.

I have about 10 years experience maintaining one. If you look at all of the modern Toyota engines I4, V6, V8 if you run the oil long enough no matter what viscosity or group type is used insoluble are what always do in the OCI not wear numbers.This assumes a properly functioning engine with no issues I should not need to qualify it like this but no doubt someone will twist it if I do not.

Find a UOA on this site in a properly functioning example of this engine where cost, additive package or type of base stock of the oil made a difference in the wear numbers during the OCI in this engine type!! You will not find it so do not waste your time I looked already.

Even TropArtic and the ever hated Mobil-1 5W30 do great in this engine. I checked the UOA before posting my response to make sure my personal experience was reflected in fact on this site!My sample size is 1 but it is 10 years of data.

Specifically what oil brands and viscosity do yo think will not perform well in this application and why?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

J
A3/B4 in 2GR-FE
Replies
14
Views
1K
Georgiey22
013fx37
Seeking advice for 2013 fx37 oil
Replies
6
Views
488
ka9mnx
Ed_Flecko
Suggestions for a slightly different oil?
2
Replies
28
Views
2K
Pablo
H
Oil Recommendations for Toyota Fortuner (South Africa)
2
Replies
24
Views
4K
heever91
L
How do I choose between all these viscosity options?
2
Replies
29
Views
3K
RooflessVW
Back
Top