Whirlpool Dryer

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Sep 14, 2013
Messages
1,340
Location
indiana
Just replaced the drum roller wheels (2) and the drum belt and tension pulley . It was not too bad of a job . keeping the drum in place as you re-assemble is a little tricky unless you have a helper hand . But what I highly recommend is that you wear gloves . Those inside edges are sharp and I got a few small cuts to prove it . A few months earlier I replaced the main control mechanism so hopefully I can get several more years of use out of this machine. The way my stairs are in my basement with the ducts and sewer pipe running along side it is a big pain in the but to get washers and dryers down the basement.
 
I use a file to knock off those sharp edges. One cut is bad enough, but several...and on your hands!...not fun at all.

I too have a Whirlpool dryer. It has Sears name on it. Still working great after 25yrs. I periodically vac all the misc. lint out of it and blow out the vent up-the-wall with a leaf blower.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
It appears that new appliances are designed for a shorter life span.

Massive cost cutting,cheap parts outsourcing and planned obsolescence.Everything today is built to a price,not a quality.
 
We bought our Maytag washer and dryer in 1977, repeat 1977. Still going strong with only very minor repairs which I did.
 
Originally Posted By: steveh
Unless you can fix it yourself,most appliances are disposable.


Even if you can fix them yourself, the parts can cost more than a new unit. The drum bearing went on my Whirlpool front load washer and the part was $400 because the bearing is built into the drum.
 
Originally Posted By: Leo99
Originally Posted By: steveh
Unless you can fix it yourself,most appliances are disposable.


Even if you can fix them yourself, the parts can cost more than a new unit. The drum bearing went on my Whirlpool front load washer and the part was $400 because the bearing is built into the drum.

Especially with all kind of rebates we can get in California, repairing an old washer costs more than new and larger washer.

Last year I bought a 4.0 cf front load LG washer on sale from Lowes, after 10% coupon plus various rebates from water and gas companies, the cost was $250. I sold the old 3.2 cf front load washer for $300.

I made $50 exchanging 6-7 years old washer for a new and larger one.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
It appears that new appliances are designed for a shorter life span.


We had the choice of only Bosch for $1800 or $380 Frididaire compact front loader washer for getting up stairs in old home into closet. We chose $380 Frigidaire.

Amazingly no issues since 2008 run daily(3 kids). However the slight moisture soap residue has rotted out the bottom of the metal door and it is rusting and seperating.
 
Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
You can keep those Whirlpool and Kenmore old style dryers going forever if the parts supply holds out. Really nothing to them.


This is my plan. My wife wants a new agitator-less top-loader some kind of bad. (And a new matching dryer, of course!) I'm working on keeping our Kenmore set (same as Whirpool/Maytag/etc) going as long as reasonably possible. We bought the set new in 2003, so it's 12 years old. I hope for another 10 at least. I have had to put some parts in them, but they're dead simple to fix and parts are available.

Contrast that with the circuit board that went out on our Samsung dishwasher recently. Whaaa? A Samsung? Nobody carries parts for a Samsung. I couldn't find the part on Amazon. I couldn't find any YouTube videos on diagnosing it. I stepped through it myself and got there...but I had to pay closer to 100 bucks for a new board and hope it worked. I was this close (leave about an inch between your index finger and thumb, and that's how close I was) to replacing that not-that-old Samsung with a Kenmore or Whirlpool dishwasher simply because I can fix those.

Logic got the better of me, and I just replaced the board, and it's working again. But it's the last "new age"/"off brand" (like Bosch, LG, etc) appliance I'm going to buy. If I can't fix it quickly because the local appliance store doesn't carry the parts and I have to wait a week for internet shipping, I'm no longer interested in it...
 
Not sure if you're adept at electronics repair or not. With a bright light and high magnification, you can inspect the parts and circuit traces for signs of overheating, cracks in the pc traces, and the worst, cold soldered joints.

With the new Rohs (no-lead solder) regs, many of the larger component leads are not heated enough to make a clean joint. As a result, the joint soon cracks, leading to board failure.
 
I have a samsung HE top loader. it is all electric dials with no knobs. I quickly put a single outlet surge protector on it. I imagine the circuit board getting hit with electricity spikes and damaging it.
 
Originally Posted By: Cutehumor
I have a samsung HE top loader. it is all electric dials with no knobs. I quickly put a single outlet surge protector on it. I imagine the circuit board getting hit with electricity spikes and damaging it.

Thank you.

We moved last year, the last few months when I do laundry I knew I missed something but could not find out what it was. Now I know it is the surge protector.

I had a surge protector for my washer in the old home, I bought several of them and currently use one for the entertainment system. Now I need to find the other surge protectors so I can use 2 for the washer and dryer.
 
Good thinking! However, I'd advise you go a step further and have an electrician install a commercial-rated surge arrestor on your main breaker box. This will arrest any surge over about 400VAC from entering your house PERIOD. You'll save LOTS of money too compared to buying multiple indoor "consumer-rated" units for devices inside your house.

Such a device protects both 120 and 220VAC devices, so no need to buy for each.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top