Settled? Did you tested it to verify if it was really MoS2, or sludge that came dissolved from elsewhere? And what's the problem with some sitting in the pan? Wouldn't that mix again with the hot turbulent oil moviments?
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Liqui moly additives? Are they good?
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Originally Posted By: Pontual
Settled? And what's the problem with some sitting in the pan? Wouldn't that mix again with the hot turbulent oil moviments?
One would assume so.
Trav's experience has taught me not to add anything to an engine that sits for any length of time,and to drain any oil that is in the sump of a vehicle that will sit however it doesn't change the fact that I'll use liqui-moly additives in a daily driver.
Settled? And what's the problem with some sitting in the pan? Wouldn't that mix again with the hot turbulent oil moviments?
One would assume so.
Trav's experience has taught me not to add anything to an engine that sits for any length of time,and to drain any oil that is in the sump of a vehicle that will sit however it doesn't change the fact that I'll use liqui-moly additives in a daily driver.
It was MoS2 and no it does not mix back in once its settled out.
I used LM MoS2 in my engine once, analysis showed 50ppm moly from an oil with 0, so it does have some suspension.
Still its the only additive i'll pay for other than ZDDPlus.
Most Mobil1 oils contain some moly, Royal Purple use Moly. so to use moly with those brands, the additive is already there. Rotella T5 has 0 moly, i'd prefer to use MoS2 with T5.
Odd, PYB has 250ppm moly most likely "organic moly", yet many other SOPUS oils don't contain moly. I'm sure it costs extra to include moly.
Can of MoS2 $8, spending $8 extra on oil I could buy Mobil1 which includes 'Tri Nuclear Moly'.
I did read a white paper from Argonne natl. Lab testing molybdenum disulfide additive in diesel engine oil. They were able to conclusively show moly did exhibit less cylinder liner wear.
Still its the only additive i'll pay for other than ZDDPlus.
Most Mobil1 oils contain some moly, Royal Purple use Moly. so to use moly with those brands, the additive is already there. Rotella T5 has 0 moly, i'd prefer to use MoS2 with T5.
Odd, PYB has 250ppm moly most likely "organic moly", yet many other SOPUS oils don't contain moly. I'm sure it costs extra to include moly.
Can of MoS2 $8, spending $8 extra on oil I could buy Mobil1 which includes 'Tri Nuclear Moly'.
I did read a white paper from Argonne natl. Lab testing molybdenum disulfide additive in diesel engine oil. They were able to conclusively show moly did exhibit less cylinder liner wear.
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In engines used everyday its quite possible MoS2 stays in suspension, i don't know.
My cars are seasonal and most get little miles, so they may sit for 6 months and never move.
My cars are seasonal and most get little miles, so they may sit for 6 months and never move.
What about cars that don't get started during the weekdays?
And does this mean that once the Mos2 is in, the only way to get rid of the settled parts is to remove the pan?
Also, since the additive is visible to the naked eye, how come the oil filter does not filter those bits?
If it has settled, does this pose a danger to the engine? ie, could the settled bits be picked up and do damage?
And does this mean that once the Mos2 is in, the only way to get rid of the settled parts is to remove the pan?
Also, since the additive is visible to the naked eye, how come the oil filter does not filter those bits?
If it has settled, does this pose a danger to the engine? ie, could the settled bits be picked up and do damage?
Before you pour in MoS2, you need to make sure you shake the can for the stuff to properly mix into the carrier oil. otherwise, all you're doing is pouring the carrier oil into the engine. After a while, it can drop out of suspension, but this requires it to be sitting for quite a lengthy period of time.
Having spoken to Liqui Moly thoroughly about this in the past, the particles are fine enough to go through the oil filter - otherwise, they would just clog up the filter and it would be pointless pouring it in with the oil in the first place.
Once you pour the stuff in, it takes about 200-400 km for it to properly coat all moving surfaces. The surfaces will remain coated, but some MoS2 will remain in the oil. If the engine sits long enough, what remains in the oil will drop out of suspension and end up on the bottom of the pan. If you get a can of MoS2, pour the contents out without shaking it and look at the very bottom, you will get a clearer picture. This is harmless though, as it will end up mixing back into the oil after a couple of days of driving.
Having spoken to Liqui Moly thoroughly about this in the past, the particles are fine enough to go through the oil filter - otherwise, they would just clog up the filter and it would be pointless pouring it in with the oil in the first place.
Once you pour the stuff in, it takes about 200-400 km for it to properly coat all moving surfaces. The surfaces will remain coated, but some MoS2 will remain in the oil. If the engine sits long enough, what remains in the oil will drop out of suspension and end up on the bottom of the pan. If you get a can of MoS2, pour the contents out without shaking it and look at the very bottom, you will get a clearer picture. This is harmless though, as it will end up mixing back into the oil after a couple of days of driving.
I have used MoS2 in the Jeep a pretty good bit, still have one can that will go in at some point.
I pour it in last while the engine is running after a vigorous shaking. Then add a little oil to the can, shake again and pour in.
I get a slight mpg increase while using it, and a notably quieter running engine with some oils. However I suspect using it with a moly loaded oil like PYB is counter productive. No proof, just suspicions.
Might be a great addition to something like Rotella in a gasser.
I pour it in last while the engine is running after a vigorous shaking. Then add a little oil to the can, shake again and pour in.
I get a slight mpg increase while using it, and a notably quieter running engine with some oils. However I suspect using it with a moly loaded oil like PYB is counter productive. No proof, just suspicions.
Might be a great addition to something like Rotella in a gasser.
I have used LubroMOly in my HOnda S2000 for 2 oil changes. I currently experience a minimum 10% MPG improvement. I have NO doubt this stuff works and I will continue to use it with my yearly oil changes. 1 can per 5 qts.
My dad owns an 06 LTC with the 4.6. Ford said it had a RMS leak and wanted $750 to fix it. Someone suggested to my dad to use a can of Lubro Moly Oil Saver and some VML 5W20 oil. He did and within 5K miles the leak stopped and has yet to return. He still uses VML.
VML?
valvoline max life
The Dodge Caravan in my signature was burning oil. Was having to add oil fairly consistently. I decided to try the Liqui Moly Oil Saver and that stuff seemed to start working almost immediately. Now, the van doesn't seem to be burning any oil at all.
I've also been impressed with Liqui Moly MOS2 as well. I've added that to all my vehicles and they seem to run better with slight improvements in performance and miles per gallon.
I'm sold on their products!
I've also been impressed with Liqui Moly MOS2 as well. I've added that to all my vehicles and they seem to run better with slight improvements in performance and miles per gallon.
I'm sold on their products!
After seeing a couple testimonials in the small engine forum, I bought a can of LubrMoly MOS2 additive and added 3/4 of it to the crankcase of my '06 Civic on Friday, when I gave it an oil change.
My last tankful, almost all highway, was a calculated 45.5mpg. That's the best tankful this car has seen since 2009. Now, that was just 1 tankful and I was doing a bit of drafting yesterday so I'm not yet ready to draw any firm conclusions.
But, I measure every single tankful to the tenth of an MPG so I will report back in another month or two to see if this is a trend or just a flyer in the data.
Oh, and I mixed the MOS2 with Valvoline Max-Life Next Gen. It's a non-starburst oil, I believe, not known for getting that last tiny bit of fuel economy.
My last tankful, almost all highway, was a calculated 45.5mpg. That's the best tankful this car has seen since 2009. Now, that was just 1 tankful and I was doing a bit of drafting yesterday so I'm not yet ready to draw any firm conclusions.
But, I measure every single tankful to the tenth of an MPG so I will report back in another month or two to see if this is a trend or just a flyer in the data.
Oh, and I mixed the MOS2 with Valvoline Max-Life Next Gen. It's a non-starburst oil, I believe, not known for getting that last tiny bit of fuel economy.
5 liters of T5 15w40 (orginally 0ppm of Moly).
If you add 1 can (300ml) of Liqui Moly MOS2 in the oïl.
how many ppm (moly) will be present after?
is there a rule like: if you add one can you automatically increasy moly to 60ppm in your oïl ?
If you add 1 can (300ml) of Liqui Moly MOS2 in the oïl.
how many ppm (moly) will be present after?
is there a rule like: if you add one can you automatically increasy moly to 60ppm in your oïl ?
You'd need to know the PPM of moly in the Liqui Moly and the oil, and, of course, the volume of the Liqui Moly and that to which it's added.
Around that....
there's a VOA of Liqui Moly MoS2 on here somewhere.
I believe the can contains near 10.000PPM of moly, and near 1% of "insolubles" which could be larger moly particles...
there's a VOA of Liqui Moly MoS2 on here somewhere.
I believe the can contains near 10.000PPM of moly, and near 1% of "insolubles" which could be larger moly particles...
Per UOA's I usually get about 250-300 ppm in a 6 quart sump when I add a full can to an oil with no other moly already in it.
Hope that helps.
Hope that helps.
KCJeep - do you have a recent UOA to post?
Added a can of MoS to my Forester a few days ago. After ~200 km, I notice that the engine appears to be quieter.
I wonder if it's going to affect how many liters it takes per 100 km.
I wonder if it's going to affect how many liters it takes per 100 km.
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