Rear Main Seal Leak

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Apparently, the rear main seal on my wife's 2005 Highlander is leaking.

I have not slid under the SUV to see it myself but the mechanic said you can't miss it.

There was zero oil usage on an 8k OCI of M-1 EP, so if it is wet, I'm hoping it is seeping and not a full blown leak.

With 116k on the odometer, I'm not in the mood to trade it in. I had the timing belt, water pump, drive belts, idler pulley, and spark plugs replaced last year. And it has fairly new brakes and fairly new Amsoil ATF and gear lube in it.

The kicker is I just changed the oil two weeks ago from M-1 to Pennzoil Ultra (old school formula, not GTL). Had I been aware of the leak three weeks ago, I would have used MaxLife full syn and crossed my fingers.

Estimates for a new seal run $1,500 to $1,800.

Considering the overall condition of the ride (did I mention Michelin Defenders with less than 20k miles on them?), the cost of a new seal is slightly cheaper than a new Highlander($41k).

I'm assuming additives would be a waste of time?
 
Having just re-read my post, I think I'll try MaxLife for a couple of OCIs. If the seal gets worse, then I'll fix it.

I've invested too much coin over the past two years and it's in good enough nick to ditch it for a new one.
 
My 4 Runner started leaking a bit from the RMS at 90,000 miles. At 267,000 miles now, buying a few quarts of oil over the years has been a lot cheaper than replacing the seal.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Astro14
My 4 Runner started leaking a bit from the RMS at 90,000 miles. At 267,000 miles now, buying a few quarts of oil over the years has been a lot cheaper than replacing the seal.


That makes $ense to me.
 
I have the same problem with my Sable Wagon. I bought a bottle of the ATP 205 based on reviews but have not put it in yet. Was planning to chnage the oil first then put it in. A mechanic told me high mileage oil would likely not do much. It really only drips a small amount when parked but I also don't want oil all over my concrete driveway. If I skip forward in abut 6 months I would be better able to tell if the ATP works for this problem. I have read alot of reviews and it sounds like it fixes 90+% of leaks so I will try it. If seal is torn then it won't work is the consensus.
 
I didn't have any problem with oil leak in all my cars, only problem with oil consumption in Volvo V70. I never even change the valve cover gasket of any of my cars.

I read a lot about RMS(Rear Main Seal) leak. Where is this RMS ?
I know that it is in the rear of the engine, but where it is actually located ?
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
I didn't have any problem with oil leak in all my cars, only problem with oil consumption in Volvo V70. I never even change the valve cover gasket of any of my cars.

I read a lot about RMS(Rear Main Seal) leak. Where is this RMS ?
I know that it is in the rear of the engine, but where it is actually located ?
Where the crankshaft is at the rear of the engine. Flex plate / flywheel attaches
 
A 2005 Highlander has a transverse mounted 3.3l engine with an Aisin U151 transaxle mounted right against it. I can't imagine where you could even see weeping. Sound like a money maker for this mechanic. If you're not losing oil over 8k miles, I wouldn't do anything.
 
If it's not leaking on the garage floor/driveway, to me it's not leaking.
I've had regular pennzoil 5w30 stop oil leak spots under the rear main seal of a Voyager fwiw.
 
Originally Posted By: JamesBond
If it's not leaking on the garage floor/driveway, to me it's not leaking.
I've had regular pennzoil 5w30 stop oil leak spots under the rear main seal of a Voyager fwiw.


I agree, that amount is where you just keep driving it, heck you probably don't even have to top it off between oil changes.

You might want to go back to dino oil it might reseal the weeping area.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Does the leak drip on the garage floor?


Not that I've seen.

As I mentioned earlier, I need to slide underneath the SUV and look at it myself.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: CT8
Have you checked the PCV system?
+1


I've been told by more than one mechanic that the PCV system (valve and hose) on the Highlander is a super pain in the a$$ to change. Hence, I've not done it through 116k miles.

But I will now because it might actually help. And let's face it, it's gotta be a whole lot cheaper than changing the rear main seal.

Someone on a Toyota forum claimed he had the same problem, changed the valve and hose, and the leak stopped. Then it re-started two months later.

I will change the PCV and hose in the near future and switch to MaxLife full synthetic after I run the current fill. I don't want to waste five new quarts of old school Ultra.

Thanks again for the replies.
 
Originally Posted By: dkryan
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: CT8
Have you checked the PCV system?
+1



Someone on a Toyota forum claimed he had the same problem, changed the valve and hose, and the leak stopped. Then it re-started two months later.

I will change the PCV and hose in the near future and switch to MaxLife full synthetic after I run the current fill. I don't want to waste five new quarts of old school Ultra.

Thanks again for the replies.




Depending on the cost it sounds like changing the PVC is no
guarantee that it will solve the problem.

Also I would NOT switch to full synthetic oil, why risk it? Those oils with more cleaning additives may actually increase the leak by cleaning gunk off the seal.
 
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