Our 2007 Accord 2.4 liter 5 speed seems to have lost its smoothness. Idle seems smooth at around 800 rpm but it seems to have a delayed throttle response that is noticeable when driving in any gear. Seems that when I let off the throttle and then get back on it there is a delay or dead spot in the car's acceleration that just isn't as smooth as it once was. I have replaced the plugs, cleaned the EGR and ran a bottle of Techron fuel injection cleaner through the gas. No decrease in gas mileage averaging 33 mpg. Car has 170K and was wondering if it is something I can adjust or should I consider replacing coil? I do notice an occasional slight hiccup/miss under load but not constant.
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Smooth throttle response.
- Thread starter wolfehunter
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Have you cleaned the throttle body ?
Well, I'll start!
Maybe also clean the throttle body with some TB Cleaner. Cleaning procedure varies slightly on make. Cleaning the throttle plate & linkage...NO KEY IN IGNITION!...And you may have go do an idle reset...IDK!
Maybe also clean the throttle body with some TB Cleaner. Cleaning procedure varies slightly on make. Cleaning the throttle plate & linkage...NO KEY IN IGNITION!...And you may have go do an idle reset...IDK!
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Make sure no leaks in the intake stream between the maf and the throttle body. Also EGR could be acting up. Also pcv - but that may kill idle.
But as Uber says, throttle body and maf should be #1 and #2 on the list to check first.
But as Uber says, throttle body and maf should be #1 and #2 on the list to check first.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Make sure no leaks in the intake stream between the maf and the throttle body. Also EGR could be acting up. Also pcv - but that may kill idle.
But as Uber says, throttle body and maf should be #1 and #2 on the list to check first.
+1 Exactly what I would do.
Make sure no leaks in the intake stream between the maf and the throttle body. Also EGR could be acting up. Also pcv - but that may kill idle.
But as Uber says, throttle body and maf should be #1 and #2 on the list to check first.
+1 Exactly what I would do.
Originally Posted By: horse123
It's called an ECU. It adjusts to how you're driving. You drive lightly, it's going to take longer to actually increase throttle.
Great answer....IF it always did that. This is new behavior. Did you read the post?
It's called an ECU. It adjusts to how you're driving. You drive lightly, it's going to take longer to actually increase throttle.
Great answer....IF it always did that. This is new behavior. Did you read the post?
Usually the internal spring in the pcv valve breaks around the 60k mark on the 2.4. Replace with an oem version. As mentioned clean the throttle body.
If the front O2 sensor(s) have been on there for 170K they may be getting "lazy" which does not always set the CEL.
wolfehunter
Thread starter
Thanks for the suggestions. I forgot to mention I just replaced both O2 sensors 2 weeks ago. This throttle issue I have noticed for at least 4 months. I will get a new oem pcv and clean the throttle body and see if any improvement. Do I need to reset the CEL after replacing both O2 sensors or does the computer take care of that on its own?
You can also post your question on www.driveaccord.net in the 7th gen section.
-clean throttle plate and throat
-check/replace spark plugs
-check/replace ignition coils (if studdering occurs during normal operational temp)
-check PCV valve and passage for clogging
-check to see if there's exhaust gas leaks through EGR valve (even minor leak will cause that symptoms described)
lastly, check to see if (assuming yours arleady a DBW type) the drive motor or the TPS is faulty (develops a flat spot)
Q.
-check/replace spark plugs
-check/replace ignition coils (if studdering occurs during normal operational temp)
-check PCV valve and passage for clogging
-check to see if there's exhaust gas leaks through EGR valve (even minor leak will cause that symptoms described)
lastly, check to see if (assuming yours arleady a DBW type) the drive motor or the TPS is faulty (develops a flat spot)
Q.
Throttle Position sensor and Manifold Air Pressure sensor would be my first two suspects.
Kestas
Staff member
The throttle position sensor was my first thought when I read the first post.
wolfehunter
Thread starter
I will be cleaning the throttle body and checking for air leaks tomorrow as local AAP can't get me a new TBI gasket until tomorrow. I will report back. If that doesn't solve it I plan to replace the pcv valve as it is original and check into TPS and Manifold Air Pressure Sensor. How would I test or check the TPS and MAPS to see if faulty?
Kestas
Staff member
You'll probably have to search the Internet for an exact procedure to check out the TPS for your vehicle. The basic premise is, with the ignition on, and engine off, you tap into two wires at the TPS and check the voltage response as the throttle is moved. The response should be linear. The TPS is basically a carbon surface resistor, and any flutter in voltage response would indicate a worn spot in the TPS.
Originally Posted By: Kestas
The throttle position sensor was my first thought when I read the first post.
With an ohm meter(analog is best), disconnect the tps and observe resistance while working the throttle. If this is faulty you will see a dead spot(open). I have had this sensor do this exact thing.I am assuming that you have one.
The throttle position sensor was my first thought when I read the first post.
With an ohm meter(analog is best), disconnect the tps and observe resistance while working the throttle. If this is faulty you will see a dead spot(open). I have had this sensor do this exact thing.I am assuming that you have one.
wolfehunter
Thread starter
Removed throttle body today and cleaned it up. Definitely had some carbon in there. Replaced the paper gasket as well. Started the car and left idle for a few minutes and then ran rpm's at 3000 until cooling fan came on. I then left it idle for 5 minutes which was supposed to reset the pcm and idle. I took it for a drive but the idle is now fluctuating from 1000 to 2000 rpms. I push in the clutch and it jumps back and forth between 1000 and 2000 rpms as if I am on and off the throttle. I disconnected the battery to see if that resets things in case I did the idle relearn procedure incorrectly. Will report back.
wolfehunter
Thread starter
Strange. Starts up and idles fine but when driving it will "gallup" between 1000 and 2000 rpms at a stop sign or even if I push in the clutch and coast. If I sit long enough at a stop it will eventually smooth out and idle fine at 800 rpms. Gallups as I pull in the driveway with the clutch in, back it in the garage and push clutch in, gallups a few times and then smooths out to 800 rpm. I'd rather have the initial problem of a hiccup on acceleration than this. LOL.
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