Hi, I just bought a used 2012 Tundra. It has the 5.7L V8 with about 35K miles. The vehicle has been well maintained at a local Toyota Dealership. I will be using this truck mostly for long trips, however the highway miles will be with the truck hauling heavy cargo and/or towing anywhere from 1500 lbs to 7500 lbs in most cases. Looks like the dealer has been running their house 5W-20 synthetic blend for oil changes. I was wondering if I should consider running a HDEO 10W-30 syn blend like T5, or maybe even T6, although I'm not sure about what kind of a MPG hit I would take with T6. My other considerations were M1 5W-30 HM, or M1 5W-20 HM... also thought about running the M1 AFE although not sure that would be appropriate for this type of severe duty application. Will be using either the M1 or Toyota OEM cartridge oil filters. Appreciate everyone's input
HDEO for 2012 Tundra 5.7 (75% Tow/Severe Duty)?
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Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w20 is good for this.
Originally Posted By: CT8
you will notice may be a percent or less in the MPG drop. Try Mobil 1 0W-40
Different application, but I have a 5w-20 spec vehicle that I am in a run of 10w-30. No difference. The engine doesn't even run smoother.
On a truck that's going to be run hard and have the oil up to temp more often, I imagine there's still going to be no difference.
you will notice may be a percent or less in the MPG drop. Try Mobil 1 0W-40
Different application, but I have a 5w-20 spec vehicle that I am in a run of 10w-30. No difference. The engine doesn't even run smoother.
On a truck that's going to be run hard and have the oil up to temp more often, I imagine there's still going to be no difference.
Originally Posted By: Hessam
Hi, I just bought a used 2012 Tundra. It has the 5.7L V8 with about 35K miles. The vehicle has been well maintained at a local Toyota Dealership. I will be using this truck mostly for long trips, however the highway miles will be with the truck hauling heavy cargo and/or towing anywhere from 1500 lbs to 7500 lbs in most cases. Looks like the dealer has been running their house 5W-20 synthetic blend for oil changes. I was wondering if I should consider running a HDEO 10W-30 syn blend like T5, or maybe even T6, although I'm not sure about what kind of a MPG hit I would take with T6. My other considerations were M1 5W-30 HM, or M1 5W-20 HM... also thought about running the M1 AFE although not sure that would be appropriate for this type of severe duty application. Will be using either the M1 or Toyota OEM cartridge oil filters. Appreciate everyone's input
Run what's recommend while under warranty. If something happens and the wrong oil was used you might be sol.
Hi, I just bought a used 2012 Tundra. It has the 5.7L V8 with about 35K miles. The vehicle has been well maintained at a local Toyota Dealership. I will be using this truck mostly for long trips, however the highway miles will be with the truck hauling heavy cargo and/or towing anywhere from 1500 lbs to 7500 lbs in most cases. Looks like the dealer has been running their house 5W-20 synthetic blend for oil changes. I was wondering if I should consider running a HDEO 10W-30 syn blend like T5, or maybe even T6, although I'm not sure about what kind of a MPG hit I would take with T6. My other considerations were M1 5W-30 HM, or M1 5W-20 HM... also thought about running the M1 AFE although not sure that would be appropriate for this type of severe duty application. Will be using either the M1 or Toyota OEM cartridge oil filters. Appreciate everyone's input
Run what's recommend while under warranty. If something happens and the wrong oil was used you might be sol.
Factory Warranty has about 900 miles left on it... It's on the current dealer 5W-20 syn blend right now, but was leaning towards switching to T5 or T6 for the next oil change cycle, when this won't be under warranty anymore.
I'm partial to HDEOs, as I've had excellent results with them over the years.
Is there any reason to run 89 octane? I've always ran 87 in whatever I had to squeeze a little better fuel mileage out of them. The Tundra sticker on the gas cap just says use regular unleaded, which to me means 87.
I'm partial to HDEOs, as I've had excellent results with them over the years.
Is there any reason to run 89 octane? I've always ran 87 in whatever I had to squeeze a little better fuel mileage out of them. The Tundra sticker on the gas cap just says use regular unleaded, which to me means 87.
Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30 is the overkill pick if you don't want M1 HM 5w20.
in my f150 5.0 have about 50% towing about 6500-8000 running rp 5w20 and I have virtually no difference in wear numbers I'm running 8k oci no problem
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I'm just worried that a 0-20W oil (no matter how good) will not be able to withstand the persistently high engine oil temps in continuous severe service. I plan on doing oil changes in the 5K-6500 miles range.
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Factory Warranty has about 900 miles left on it
Toyota powertrain warranty is 60K miles or 6 years.
Certified used is 100K IIRC.
Older Toyota V8 trucks indicated to use 30 weight when towing; I checked recently and that is no longer in the OM for the newer ones. Check the OM.
Factory Warranty has about 900 miles left on it
Toyota powertrain warranty is 60K miles or 6 years.
Certified used is 100K IIRC.
Older Toyota V8 trucks indicated to use 30 weight when towing; I checked recently and that is no longer in the OM for the newer ones. Check the OM.
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I think you are way over thinking this "oil type/weight" thing just buy a good full syn 0w20 or 5w20 and change it at 5k get it tested and go from there
Originally Posted By: robo339
I think you are way over thinking this "oil type/weight" thing just buy a good full syn 0w20 or 5w20 and change it at 5k get it tested and go from there
Guilty as charged... I'm definitely a typical BITOG member over thinking my engine oil requirements... I just wish there was a readily available HDEO in 0w-20, or 5W-20 flavor that I could use in this engine. Otherwise looks like either M1 0W-20 EP, or M1 5W-20 HM will have to be my choice
I think you are way over thinking this "oil type/weight" thing just buy a good full syn 0w20 or 5w20 and change it at 5k get it tested and go from there
Guilty as charged... I'm definitely a typical BITOG member over thinking my engine oil requirements... I just wish there was a readily available HDEO in 0w-20, or 5W-20 flavor that I could use in this engine. Otherwise looks like either M1 0W-20 EP, or M1 5W-20 HM will have to be my choice
I was the same with my 5.0 till I got my first uoa back for it and all my worries disappeared rp seems to work well for me (got it on sale) but I wouldn't hesitate to use any top tier synthetic 5w20 or 0w20 I do like hdeo cuz it's cheap but only in my big trucks and fourwheeler
Just read some of the OM and looks like Toyota is really favoring the 0W-20 synthetic over the 5W-20 varieties. Even though it does say 5W-20 can be used, if 0W-20 is not available...But then here's about 50 different places in the service manual, where it reads, that if 0W-20 was not used at the last oil change, oil should be changed back to 0W-20 at next service interval.
Also recommends 10K oil change intevals when using 0W-20 (under normal driving conditions), while it says that if you're going back and forth between 5W-20, and 0W-20 oil change interval should be kept to 5K (again for normal driving conditions).
There is a throw-in mention that the 2nd number in the oil rating (20) indicates the viscosity characteristic of the oil, when the oil is at high temperature, and that an oil with a higher viscosity value may be better suited if the truck is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions... But no mention at all about any use of any 30 grades when towing or hauling heavy cargo.
Looks like some of the M1 EP 0W-20 sitting on the shelf at my local WM will be on deck for my next OC, as I couldn't find any info on any OW-20, or 5W-20 HDEOs.
Also recommends 10K oil change intevals when using 0W-20 (under normal driving conditions), while it says that if you're going back and forth between 5W-20, and 0W-20 oil change interval should be kept to 5K (again for normal driving conditions).
There is a throw-in mention that the 2nd number in the oil rating (20) indicates the viscosity characteristic of the oil, when the oil is at high temperature, and that an oil with a higher viscosity value may be better suited if the truck is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions... But no mention at all about any use of any 30 grades when towing or hauling heavy cargo.
Looks like some of the M1 EP 0W-20 sitting on the shelf at my local WM will be on deck for my next OC, as I couldn't find any info on any OW-20, or 5W-20 HDEOs.
Actually reads: " If SAE 0W-20 is not available, SAE 5W-20 oil may be used, However it must be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change"
Everything toyota makes pretty much follows that rule now I have a little rav 4 that I run 5w20 in 5k intervals since it was new different brand or mix every time no problems at all my mother had an 06 four runner which constantly had extended oci on conventional oil and was definitely abused but at 250k when we got rid of it it still ran like it was brand new I got alot of faith in their motors
0 or 5/20 winter and 5/30 summer.
Engine will never know the difference or being in VA it will never know the difference if you use 5/30 year round unless you get a lot of freezing weather in winter maybe if you want to be extra cautious 20 in the winter.
Engine will never know the difference or being in VA it will never know the difference if you use 5/30 year round unless you get a lot of freezing weather in winter maybe if you want to be extra cautious 20 in the winter.
Mobil-1 0W40 with no hit to MPG at all you might see an improvment if you do a lot of short trip driving. Rotella-T 5W40 and again I doubt you will see any hit to MPG.The 5W part is all that really matter and even then it only matter to cold operation with regard to MPG. Once the oil is warm in 5-20 minutes of use the fuel economy hit from the oil matters very little until you start getting into 50Wt oils and thicker.
If this was a stationary power unit operated in a narrow rpm range or a very small low friction engine then the pumping loses would matter. In a daily driver used for towing and hauling the pumping losses are the least of your worries. On top of that aerodynamic issues are again much bigger issue then pumping loses.
Changing all your fluids to synthetic like Redline or Amsoil ATF and Diff fluids would help with MPG.
In domestic pickup trucks when change all the fluids other then coolant and brake fluid to synthetic I normally gain 1-2mpg across the entire range of both city and highway use.
When it comes to ATF, Gearlube and Powersteering fluid I have always had the best results with Redline in terms of miles per gallon.
When it comes to engine oil Mobil-1, Redline, Amsoil, Motul and Pentosin in the thinnest grade that works well in my application has always done well. 0W30,0W40,5W30 and 5W40 has always worked great for me. I really do not have enough experience with 5W20 or 0W20.
If that was my truck and I was going to be doing a lot of hauling and towing I would start with with a 0W40 or 5W40 and see how that went. I would do a UOA and see what was going on with the engine.
If this was a stationary power unit operated in a narrow rpm range or a very small low friction engine then the pumping loses would matter. In a daily driver used for towing and hauling the pumping losses are the least of your worries. On top of that aerodynamic issues are again much bigger issue then pumping loses.
Changing all your fluids to synthetic like Redline or Amsoil ATF and Diff fluids would help with MPG.
In domestic pickup trucks when change all the fluids other then coolant and brake fluid to synthetic I normally gain 1-2mpg across the entire range of both city and highway use.
When it comes to ATF, Gearlube and Powersteering fluid I have always had the best results with Redline in terms of miles per gallon.
When it comes to engine oil Mobil-1, Redline, Amsoil, Motul and Pentosin in the thinnest grade that works well in my application has always done well. 0W30,0W40,5W30 and 5W40 has always worked great for me. I really do not have enough experience with 5W20 or 0W20.
If that was my truck and I was going to be doing a lot of hauling and towing I would start with with a 0W40 or 5W40 and see how that went. I would do a UOA and see what was going on with the engine.
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