OLD Toyota

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New Mexico
It leaks 1/4 quart in 3,000 mile thru the rear main seal....manual list 10-W 30.......10- w 40 and 10 W 50 for the engine....I am in new Mexico....... Hot....will the thicker oils help?...The oil has not messed up the clutch in 5,000 miles and mechanic says let it go till clutch slips or bounces..need to change now.....10-w-50?..Ideas please

Tried Barrs real main seal no help
 
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1/4 quart is not much.... I would DRIVE it like I stole it.

Would not touch it until other problems happen, like the tech said, starts to slip or something else. I don't know what a "old" Toyota is, just drive 'till she blows!!


UNLESS: this is a collectors car, then dump the money into it.
 
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I have told the story here many times, of an 82 Toyota pick up i had. I only used 20w-50 in the engine, year round, in Canada, and the engine lasted 500,000 miles.

If thick oil helps, go for it.

Other than that, try another seal sealer, or change the seal if or when the clutch goes.
 
Liqui-moly motor oil saver. Napa carries it. If the gasket is damaged then no additive will help however if it's still there and just shrunk then motor oil saver will swell it.
It's not a permanent fix but it will give you some extra time delaying the inevitable
 
Originally Posted By: expat
I have told the story here many times, of an 82 Toyota pick up i had. I only used 20w-50 in the engine, year round, in Canada, and the engine lasted 500,000 miles.

If thick oil helps, go for it.

Other than that, try another seal sealer, or change the seal if or when the clutch goes.


20w50 in Canada?
Would it start all winter?
Without a block heater?
 
Originally Posted By: ceast
It leaks 1/4 quart in 3,000 mile thru the rear main seal....manual list 10-W 30.......10- w 40 and 10 W 50 for the engine....I am in new Mexico....... Hot....will the thicker oils help?...The oil has not messed up the clutch in 5,000 miles and mechanic says let it go till clutch slips or bounces..need to change now.....10-w-50?..Ideas please

Tried Barrs real main seal no help


My Trans Am was leaking 1/4 quart in a 30 minute drive. Tried the Bars Leak Rear Main and it seemed to help some. Put Lucas Engine Oil Stop Leak and that knocked it down some more. I think a combo of thick oil and an aggressive seal sweller gets it done. It still leaks some and probably always will with an old fashioned rope seal. I'm going to take a piece of card board with me to the car show next week to catch the drops from engine, tranny and diff. Hey. They're old cars. Wadda you want?
 
The 50 weight oil recommended is probably 20w-50. If you use it I'd consider going back to a Xw-30 for the winter if it gets cold where you live.

Your mechanic is giving you good advice.
 
Originally Posted By: KzMitch
Originally Posted By: expat
I have told the story here many times, of an 82 Toyota pick up i had. I only used 20w-50 in the engine, year round, in Canada, and the engine lasted 500,000 miles.

If thick oil helps, go for it.

Other than that, try another seal sealer, or change the seal if or when the clutch goes.


20w50 in Canada?
Would it start all winter?
Without a block heater?



Why wouldn't it. It may turn over slowly but as long as it turns fast enough it'll start.
 
Yep, especially vehicles with carbs, like a 1982 Toyota pickup. Engines with carbs would often start when it wasn't in their best interest.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: KzMitch
Originally Posted By: expat
I have told the story here many times, of an 82 Toyota pick up i had. I only used 20w-50 in the engine, year round, in Canada, and the engine lasted 500,000 miles.

If thick oil helps, go for it.

Other than that, try another seal sealer, or change the seal if or when the clutch goes.


20w50 in Canada?
Would it start all winter?
Without a block heater?



No block heater.
The lowest temp it experienced was about -10c (whatever that is in american ;-) )
Honestly, at that time, i never gave it a second thought. It always started, i only remember that in sub zero temps, the stick shift transmission was a bit stiff until it warmed up.

You might ask my reasoning for using such heavy oil?

Well, I'm from the UK. There, the standard oil (the most available oil) was 20w-50
Cars there would typically last (in the late 60's and 70's) 100k miles before showing serious wear problems. These would be highly stressed, sub 2 litre engines.

When i came to West Coast North America, I saw 5&6 litre lightly stressed V8's lasting the same mileage running on 'thin' 10w-30 (the typical oil of that time)

That did not seem right with me.
So I ran with 20w50 just like in the old country.
 
Originally Posted By: KzMitch
Originally Posted By: expat
I have told the story here many times, of an 82 Toyota pick up i had. I only used 20w-50 in the engine, year round, in Canada, and the engine lasted 500,000 miles.

If thick oil helps, go for it.

Other than that, try another seal sealer, or change the seal if or when the clutch goes.


20w50 in Canada?
Would it start all winter?
Without a block heater?


Its actually not as cold in Canada as one may think, vs. Chicago. In Chicago we've actually had some tough winters recently seeing down to -26C/-15F. Colder than average even by many Canadian standards.
 
I imagine that this is a 22R engine.
The pcv valve plugs into the top of your valve cover, with a hose attatched to it.

Pull it out. Disconnect it from the hose and wash it out with WD40

Or you could just replace it for about $8
 
It seems OK...Clicks back and forth......But I will get a new one...

I'll stick with 10W 30 as the leakage is not bad,,,,....Charlie
 
My vote is Rotella T 15W-40. I have an 87 4 Runner with a 22RE and it just loved that oil. It's almost a perfect oil for the older Toyota truck engines,
 
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