Engine damage from running low on oil?
- Thread starter llmercll
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Originally Posted By: AZjeff
If running an engine with less than 1/2 the recommended oil fill for an unknown amount of time truly causes no damage then this site really is full of OCD fanatical crazies. Including me.
Well in theory, the engine can run fine as long as it is getting enough oil in the sump to keep pumping. The oil that is there though, is being worked pretty hard. I had this discussion a couple weeks ago, that topping off in theory, will make your oil last longer (due to greater oil volume available and that each drop of oil sees less use) but most BTOGer's thought it was crazy to keep your oil topped off....go figure. I was actually quite surprised by this as of course a greater volume of oil is better than a lesser amount unless your throwing in the argument that the oil doesn't heat up as fast or some other factor...
If running an engine with less than 1/2 the recommended oil fill for an unknown amount of time truly causes no damage then this site really is full of OCD fanatical crazies. Including me.
Well in theory, the engine can run fine as long as it is getting enough oil in the sump to keep pumping. The oil that is there though, is being worked pretty hard. I had this discussion a couple weeks ago, that topping off in theory, will make your oil last longer (due to greater oil volume available and that each drop of oil sees less use) but most BTOGer's thought it was crazy to keep your oil topped off....go figure. I was actually quite surprised by this as of course a greater volume of oil is better than a lesser amount unless your throwing in the argument that the oil doesn't heat up as fast or some other factor...
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By running the oil that low you probably added alot more varnish and carbon to the piston rings. The rings may be stuck now. I agree with jdavis, run a cleaner like MMO or Rislone or Kreen in the next oci to free up the rings and reduce future oil consumption.
Originally Posted By: CentAmDL650
By running the oil that low you probably added alot more varnish and carbon to the piston rings. The rings may be stuck now. I agree with jdavis, run a cleaner like MMO or Rislone or Kreen in the next oci to free up the rings and reduce future oil consumption.
He didn't "probably" do anything of the sort. As he stated, the oil that came out looked clean and flowed well. If he has a stuck ring, he will know it by increased oil consumption. And carbon on the pistons does not come from over worked oil. These are assumptions that don't need to be made as he can prove over his next change if any of this occured by seeing how the motor preforms.
By running the oil that low you probably added alot more varnish and carbon to the piston rings. The rings may be stuck now. I agree with jdavis, run a cleaner like MMO or Rislone or Kreen in the next oci to free up the rings and reduce future oil consumption.
He didn't "probably" do anything of the sort. As he stated, the oil that came out looked clean and flowed well. If he has a stuck ring, he will know it by increased oil consumption. And carbon on the pistons does not come from over worked oil. These are assumptions that don't need to be made as he can prove over his next change if any of this occured by seeing how the motor preforms.
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Keep an eye on it, and see if you develop an oil burning issue or not. If it becomes an oil burner then reach for a miracle in a can. Otherwise leave well enough alone, and don't let the oil get that low again.
I've uploaded a video so you can hear it. It only does it from between 1.5-2k rpm and only if the car is sitting and I accelerate. It doesn't make the noise when I let off the throttle. I don't hear anything and it pretty much goes away past 2k rpm, but that may be because engine noise drowns it out. BUT, it does sound like rod knock, right?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8HzKQ9FFQpjMHlGM3N0TU1ydjg/view?usp=sharing
watch your ears around 35s
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8HzKQ9FFQpjMHlGM3N0TU1ydjg/view?usp=sharing
watch your ears around 35s
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Originally Posted By: llmercll
I've uploaded a video so you can hear it. It only does it from between 1.5-2k rpm and only if the car is sitting and I accelerate very slowly. It doesn't make the noise when I let off the throttle. If I do it quickly I don't hear anything and it pretty much goes away past 2k rpm. BUT, it does sound like rod knock, right?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8HzKQ9FFQpjMHlGM3N0TU1ydjg/view?usp=sharing
Post this video on Youtube
I've uploaded a video so you can hear it. It only does it from between 1.5-2k rpm and only if the car is sitting and I accelerate very slowly. It doesn't make the noise when I let off the throttle. If I do it quickly I don't hear anything and it pretty much goes away past 2k rpm. BUT, it does sound like rod knock, right?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8HzKQ9FFQpjMHlGM3N0TU1ydjg/view?usp=sharing
Post this video on Youtube
Originally Posted By: dishdude
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
Quote:
I do not buy used cars.
But you drive a whole stable of them.
A short discussion with the owner and some maintenance records goes a long way.
That he knows don't have a history of being neglected.
You sir are proof that there is hope for humanity.
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
Quote:
I do not buy used cars.
But you drive a whole stable of them.
A short discussion with the owner and some maintenance records goes a long way.
That he knows don't have a history of being neglected.
You sir are proof that there is hope for humanity.
There's no VTEC on that motor right? Being summer, I would go right to 15W40, or even 20W50 and see what it does for sound, just don't rev it above 4k any sustained time until its warmed up. If its a big change then you know something bad happened. Its hard to tell what's good or bad sounding in your clip.
If thicker oil really quiets it down, then your all ready to go trade it in! Just kidding.
If thicker oil really quiets it down, then your all ready to go trade it in! Just kidding.
Engine damage is quite possible when driving low on oil, even if OP light never came on. Oil can get excessively aerated and top end can be starved from oil.
I say you've got some knocking going on.
Originally Posted By: philipp10
how does low oil become "excessively aerated"???
If the oil pickup isn't completely submerged then it will suck up some air. Also if they oil level isn't far above the oil pickup, the air bubbles in the oil returning to the pan don't have time to percolate out and they get sucked back through again.
I imagine it doesn't take much air in the oil to start having a bearing go to boundary lubrication conditions and not long for that to wear the bearing quickly.
I imagine if one bearing has failed, the others aren't far behind, might be time for new shortblock.
how does low oil become "excessively aerated"???
If the oil pickup isn't completely submerged then it will suck up some air. Also if they oil level isn't far above the oil pickup, the air bubbles in the oil returning to the pan don't have time to percolate out and they get sucked back through again.
I imagine it doesn't take much air in the oil to start having a bearing go to boundary lubrication conditions and not long for that to wear the bearing quickly.
I imagine if one bearing has failed, the others aren't far behind, might be time for new shortblock.
Originally Posted By: philipp10
Originally Posted By: CentAmDL650
By running the oil that low you probably added alot more varnish and carbon to the piston rings. The rings may be stuck now. I agree with jdavis, run a cleaner like MMO or Rislone or Kreen in the next oci to free up the rings and reduce future oil consumption.
He didn't "probably" do anything of the sort. As he stated, the oil that came out looked clean and flowed well. If he has a stuck ring, he will know it by increased oil consumption. And carbon on the pistons does not come from over worked oil. These are assumptions that don't need to be made as he can prove over his next change if any of this occured by seeing how the motor preforms.
Agreed, as long as it maintained oil pressure it's fine... Even if pressure did drop but not enough to trigger light there isn't a problem...
For the original poster, first you messed up by not checking oil every couple thousand miles but I doubt there is any damage... Some of these posters no doubt get their jollies spreading all sorts of gloom & doom, which brings up 2nd mistake, posting here... Way too much OCD...
My beater F-150 was bought with less than a quart of oil in the pan and it has a six quart system... Now been 2½ years on 5K OCI, still runs fine...
Originally Posted By: CentAmDL650
By running the oil that low you probably added alot more varnish and carbon to the piston rings. The rings may be stuck now. I agree with jdavis, run a cleaner like MMO or Rislone or Kreen in the next oci to free up the rings and reduce future oil consumption.
He didn't "probably" do anything of the sort. As he stated, the oil that came out looked clean and flowed well. If he has a stuck ring, he will know it by increased oil consumption. And carbon on the pistons does not come from over worked oil. These are assumptions that don't need to be made as he can prove over his next change if any of this occured by seeing how the motor preforms.
Agreed, as long as it maintained oil pressure it's fine... Even if pressure did drop but not enough to trigger light there isn't a problem...
For the original poster, first you messed up by not checking oil every couple thousand miles but I doubt there is any damage... Some of these posters no doubt get their jollies spreading all sorts of gloom & doom, which brings up 2nd mistake, posting here... Way too much OCD...
My beater F-150 was bought with less than a quart of oil in the pan and it has a six quart system... Now been 2½ years on 5K OCI, still runs fine...
Well like I said, I have a slight knock now and found metal particles in my oil, so I must have done damage =/
I'm looking ways to change the rod bearings while still in the engine. I know it probably won't work, but it's all I can do. An engine swap would cost more than the cars worth.
I'm looking ways to change the rod bearings while still in the engine. I know it probably won't work, but it's all I can do. An engine swap would cost more than the cars worth.
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