Going to change my brakes for the first time

[slowdime]

Originally Posted By: llmercll
Thanks for the responses everyone, I'm getting a better picture on what to do.

I'm getting mixed messages about the rotors though. Should I leave them, machine them, or buy new? I'm also trying to decide between OEM and Akobono pads.

I'm a student so cost is a factor, but not at the price of safety =/

Thanks


Unless the rotors are totally munched and rusty I'd leave them. Being a student on a budget sucks when it comes to car maintenance. If you plan on keeping the car a while it's worth it to buy quality parts, I've learned that when you buy cheap, you buy twice. Just some general advice. As a fellow broke college kid, it's worth it to save for a higher quality part when it comes to 'mission critical' safety items like brakes and suspension.
It was mentioned in another post to put up pictures when you have it apart so your fellow bitogers can chime in. Trav is the go to expert on car repair around here!

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: mattwithcats
Turn wheel in direction your working, left side, turn left...
Jack car, two jack stands underneath, remove wheel
Loosen bolts using 6 point socket, breaker and cheater.
Apply steady and slowly increasing pressure to loosen bolts.
Remove rest of way with ratchet.
Hang caliper on coil spring using coat hanger

Remove next two bolts. Remove rotor, and pads.
Note where chirp tab is, remove pads, clean pad holders with wire brush
New pads, new rotors install...
Use SlyGlide on back of pads.
Loosen brake fluid container top on car, wrap rag around container.
Push brake caliper piston back using piston tool.
Put caliper on pads, tighten and torque bolts.
Put antiseize on smooth parts of caliper pins
Tighten and torque.

Replace wheel, brake fluid cap. Tap brakes gently several times to seat pads.

Did I forget anything?


Best to loosen the bleeder to push back the piston so any rusted brake fluid in the caliper gets discarded. But do not snap it.

 

[artbuc]

+1 re no anti-seize on caliper slide pins. Very bad idea. Use lube designed for the task. I like SlyGlide.

 

[JustinH]

So on my 2008 toyota, the boots were ripped on the caliper slide pins.

Ended up replacing them. Also two of the pins were scored.

Replaced the pins as well.

Sylglide is a good product, a tube of it will last about 5 brake jobs. I use that for the caliper slide pins and use plenty of it. Burp the boots good and make sure they are sealed to the caliper properly.

Just make sure everything is clean and lubed up.

I like to take a little file and clean up the contact points, then I use high temp brake grease on all the contact points.

Also I put a little on the back of the pad and spread it evenly.

If you are replacing the rotors, then clean up the hub with a wire brush or rotary wire brush.

 

[Vikas]

take better pictures of the rotors and post here. you might get comments on it based upon how they look.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

I can't imagine rotors in NY not being crunchy and rusty.

 

[Yup]

Gotta watch pushing the caliper thingy back in. On Hondas you usually have to screw them in not forcibly push. There's a little $5 ratchet attachment most auto parts stores sell. At least that's what my buddy told me before I did mine and screwing them in definitely seemed like how it was meant to be. Also, I put cheap pads on a couple years ago and one disintegrated after freezing (ebrake on manual) this winter. So I'd definitely go at least OEM or top of the line aftermarket. There's also an annoying little pin thing on Hondas you have to make sure the pad slides into or it'll rub all weird when driving. Kind of a pain to see without a lift but a few swear words and minutes and you'll get it.

 

[Vikas]

To be frank, if this is truly your first brake job (I thought of using initials but then stopped myself), you should have somebody who has done few of them in the past watching/helping/guiding you. Friend, co-worker, neighbor etc would work.

No front caliper needs twisting to go back in. Some of ht rear ones which have integrated parking (aka no disk/drum combo in the hat) needs twisting.

 

[ted s]

no new pads aren't to be put on used uncut rotors

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: ted s
no new pads aren't to be put on used uncut rotors


Nonsense. As long as everything is in good condition and runout is fine with no pad deposits and minimal thickness is there, go for it.

"Pad slap" that thing and move on if you know what you're doing...

 

[andyd]

It is a 15 yr old rusty beater. Kid is a broke college kid. Some good advice in the thread. Some, not so much. Buy a few squeeze packs of Sil-Glyde. If you don't have a metal to metal contact, my advice is to replace the pads only. Get a cheap set of soft pads that will bed in quickly.