new to changing lawn mower oil, help

Status
Not open for further replies.
E

engineer20

Joined
Jun 22, 2014
Messages
768
Location
Michigan, USA
so I'm new to changing lawn mower oil, in the past, when i was younger, my family member just added/topped off the oil but never changed it. the old mower was about 10 years old and a scott brand when it died. The new mower is 3 years old and the oil has never been changed and I want to do it for the first time. Can you do a used oil analysis on the lawn mower oil/ How do you do it, i have a toro, and what kind of oil filter is it and are oil filters "one size fits all?" or no? I still have the sae 30 motor oil that came with the mower and it's toro brand, but does brand or type of sae 30 oil matter? can you use any sae 30, or what about heavy duty sae 30?

and can you do an used oil analysis on lawn mower oil?
nd for lawn mowers can any sae 30 work, walmart sells large jugs of it, or do you need lawn mower oil which walmart also sells but in 64 fl ounce form in the lawn and garden section and which brands of lawn mower oil are the best or is sae 30 super tech good enough for a toro lawn mover?
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
i have a toro, and what kind of oil filter is it

Does it even have an oil filter? Most lawn mowers don't, unless it's a riding mower.

As far as oil, just about any SAE 30 oil should work fine in it, but if you know the model number, then just look up its owner's manual online and read what it says about oil requirements.

As for oil analysis, I wouldn't really bother, but if you really want to do it, getting a sample pump would make collecting a sample very convenient (through the dipstick tube). Both Blackstone and Amsoil sell these pumps.
 
After cutting the lawn [the oil will be hot] Get a suitable container remove the dipstick and tip the mower over on its side to drain the oil out of the fill hole. Add the proper amount of the proper oil and call it done. Why would you do an oil analysis on a lawn mower?
 
I wouldn't waste the money on a UOA on a lawn mower. What do you hope to learn from the analysis? I'd get the lawn mower oil in the little bottle. When do you plan to change the oil again? Are sticking with your 3 year OCI?
 
Some lawn mower have a drain plug, many you just drain it through the dipstick tube. If its via the dipstick tube, make sure you tip to the side of the dipstick tube.

After you have filled it to what you think is needed, put in the dipstick, walk away for 30 minutes come back and check. Sometimes when filling via dipstick tube and then immediately checking gives odd results.
 
Do you have the owners manual? If so it will tell you how to change the oil, including how much new oil to put in and what grades of oil are acceptable.

If it is a Briggs and Stratton engine it probably drains from just taking the dip stick out and tipping it on its side and takes 20 ounces of straight 30 weight, or 5W30 synthetic, to fill up.

You'll also want to change the air filter and spark plug yearly and keep the blade sharp.
 
You maybe thinking too hard on just the oil. Just change it with SOMETHING. my mower just gets a qt of whatever 5w-30 car motor oil that I have left over. I have an oil extractor so can just suck it out and fill up.

Take some of that intense focus on oil and redirect it to the rest of the mower maintenance too.
If you're trying to keep your mower at peak shape, you should also spend your effort on:

-sharpen or replace the mower blade
-run some fuel injector cleaner through next tank of fuel (only need a little bit).
-clean or replace the air filter
-examine/replace spark plug
 
Last edited:
If you can find E0 gas, get that. Use blue marine Stabil all season long. Safety gas can if you keep the gas in attached garage. Hose off or pressure wash the old grass stuck to the bottom of the deck.

Don't let dried grass/leaf chunks accumulate on the top of the deck and touch the muffler. I have done that. Some smoking leaf chunks.

Don't hit rocks, pipes, dog bones.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Don't hit rocks, pipes, dog bones.

And beehives.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: raytseng
You maybe thinking too hard on just the oil. Just change it with SOMETHING. my mower just gets a qt of whatever 5w-30 car motor oil that I have left over.

Absolutely. Despite my concern about mixing and switching in my car, the mower gets whatever's left over, 5w-30 or otherwise. The same goes for the snowblower. Last year, the mower got MaxLife 5w-30 and the blower got RP 0w-40.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
Can you do a used oil analysis on the lawn mower oil?


Yes you could but would be a complete waste of money.

Originally Posted By: engineer20
How do you do it


Push mowers you typically tip over and drain out of the dipstick tube. Riding mowers you drain using the drain plug.


Originally Posted By: engineer20
i have a toro, and what kind of oil filter is it and are oil filters "one size fits all?" or no?


Very few Toro push mowers have an oil filter. If its a riding mower, filter will depend on which brand of engine it has. Get us the model number on the mower so that we can help you there.

Originally Posted By: engineer20
I still have the sae 30 motor oil that came with the mower and it's toro brand, but does brand or type of sae 30 oil matter? can you use any sae 30, or what about heavy duty sae 30?


Yes any detergent SAE30 motor oil will typically be fine in a mower. I use a lot of store brand SAE30 oils (Ace, Wal-Mart, Autozone) and it is fine for a lawn mower. Another great option for most mowers is a synthetic 10W30 such as Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W30.


Originally Posted By: engineer20
walmart sells large jugs of it, or do you need lawn mower oil which walmart also sells but in 64 fl ounce form in the lawn and garden section and which brands of lawn mower oil are the best or is sae 30 super tech good enough for a toro lawn mover?


Lawn mower oil and SAE30 motor oil are the same thing. Different way to market things. Oil sold specifically for lawn mowers or 4 stroke engines will cost about twice as much.

Push mowers use about half a quart per change and riding mowers use almost 2 quarts per change. If I was in your shoes I would grab a 5 quart jug of synthetic 10W30 motor oil and have several years worth of oil changes and top off oil. Now that you are getting into the habit of maintaining your equipment, change the oil once per year in the fall before you put it away. Change the air-filter and spark plug at the same time.
 
well you have gotten a lot of good advice so far

Here goes my 2 cents. If it is a push mower, it may have a drain plug in the engine case where the shaft that holds the blade on comes out. Are you an engineer and are you good at this stuff?

If is does have a drain plug, it is usually a 3/8 inch plug you can remove with a ratchet and extension. Simply raise or lift the mower onto a work bench or work mate, remove the plug and out comes the oil. If you do not have a drain plug, you need to run the tank and carb dry and drain the oil out of the dipstick and has been said before.

The typical lawn mower engine holds about 20 ounces of oil. Mine gets any old 5w30 or 10w30 I have sitting around.

Remove and clean the air filter by knocking off big debris and vacuum with shop vac, etc

If so inclined, remove and sharpen blade and reinstall.

Pull out plug and examine and clean with wire brush and reinstall.

Gas it up and go back to work.

Have a good afternoot
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Donald
Don't hit rocks, pipes, dog bones.

And beehives.
smile.gif




Or anthills
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Donald
Don't hit rocks, pipes, dog bones.

And beehives.
smile.gif



28.gif
 
Last edited:
Hello, A previous poster said, "If so inclined, remove and sharpen blade and reinstall."

There's no inclination about it. Keep your blade sharp. They get dull. You don't have a choice in the matter.

I suppose you do in the grand "I can do whatever I want" scheme of things but in reality you can't and don't.

A sharp blade is better for your grass and flies into the catch bag better (if you use one). Kira
 
Tools needed-
Rag, old clothes work great...
Funnel
Container to drain oil. For a mower, a dishpan is cheap, however a 2 liter soda bottle to put the old oil in will be needed.
A quart of full synthetic 5W-30 or 10W-30, any house brand works, Supertech, AutoZone, etc.

Run cold mower for 15-20 seconds.
Remove fill plug, tip mower, drain oil into pan.
Use funnel to add 20 ounces oil, check dipstick..
Install fill cap
Add water to 2 liter soda bottle, fill to 1/4 level.
(keeps bottle from tipping)
Use funnel, pour pan into soda bottle.
Cap bottle, dispose of properly (auto parts store)
Done...
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
After you have filled it to what you think is needed, put in the dipstick, walk away for 30 minutes come back and check. Sometimes when filling via dipstick tube and then immediately checking gives odd results.
Amen to that.

The dipstick on my Toro gives all kinds of funky readings unless I let it set for a while.

On a side note, the stick in my buddy's '09 Corolla does the same thing...it takes like 2 days of normal driving for it to settle down.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

W
How Old Is Your Lawn Mower(s)?? And How Many Hours Approximately?
3 4 5
Replies
86
Views
3K
belbers9715
O
Need opinions on a new riding lawn mower
2 3 4
Replies
65
Views
2K
Cujet
M
Snapper mower
Replies
17
Views
1K
nwjones18
E
Selecting a new gas mower for residential use
2 3
Replies
53
Views
5K
shortyb
W
Should I change belt on zero turn mower?
2
Replies
28
Views
1K
super20dan
Back
Top