Oil for an air-cooled 911

Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary

Perhaps we've come a long way...................?


I hope so Doug! I think we were operation off a very low base though!

Just one question if you don't mind?

Why A3/B3 rather than A3/B4?

Thanks
Peter

PS: Pleased you saw the humour in my hypothetical and my attempt to "codify" the selection process.
 
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Peter:

I think you are creating a straw man. I don't think I have said there is only one viscosity or brand that is best, nor do I think LN/Charles Navarro is saying that in his article (which i'm still not sure you've read).

I am not an expert in oil or engines, but I do read what the "experts" have to share with us laypeople (whether, Doug H., Charles, or Jake Raby of Flat 6). I have decided to follow the recommendation for higher ZDDP oil (regardless of brand) in a 5W40 full synthetic because of the rationale these experts have stated, which sounds logical to me. Further, Jake Raby/Flat 6 builds engines and re-builds blown engines and in the process he advised us that they measure for engine wear and test different oils, brands and weights.

You or the OP may read their recommendations and decide you simply don't need to follow their advice and continue to use Mobil 0W40, or any other brand and weight and I completely respect your decision to do so. But, you have not addressed the substance of their findings -- which is a 5W40 (in a watercooled) is better than a 0w40 for HTHS, and a higher ZDDP oil provides better protection (based on their own testing and engine build/tear down). Now, at the end of the day, I have no way of proving whether the next 75 or 100k on the clock will be better for following their recommendations, since -- I'm not tearing down my engine now or until it needs a rebuild.

Since I don't own an air-cooled 911, the best I can say is that I'd go with a 5W50 or 15W50 if I had to make that decision during summer since temps where I live get to Vegas hot (115); and maybe a 5W40 would be fine the remainder of the year.

Further, since I now have a flat 6 IMS Solution, I'm going to follow the recommendation because this is the weight they tested for their product and there is no reason not to use a 5W40 (other than for winter in Colorado where a 0W40 may provide slightly better performance where temps do indeed fall to -28 degrees F or colder for short periods of time).

So, no argument here -- not selling anything to anyone. Just making the best informed decision I can make recognizing that Porsche has changed its recommendations over time in terms of oil and weight, ambient temps, Mobil pays a lot of money to get that sticker placed on the Porsche cars; and we have to recognize in the US that CAFE and emissions plays a role in what the manufacturer recommends.

Enough said.
 
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Originally Posted By: Peter_M
Originally Posted By: typ901
Originally Posted By: sds911
Check Rennlist Porsche forums, sure you will find answers there from other owners. And check LNengineering Charles Navarro. He may recommend joe Gibbs driven DT50.


He probably has checked the P-car Forums and is more confused than ever! Which is why he registered here to hopefully get a little clarity.



That's how I ended up on BITOG too!



I found Rennlist and Pelican forums almost useless and I question the validity of advice being given by people who profit from their advice. I also question their knowledge as some of the reasoning given and sample sizes that they base their advice on is at best poor. The classic example is 911 lobe "wear" where lack of ZDDP is the "folklaw" reason (I actually suspect corrosion pitting is the primary cause).





Yeah I'm on several of the Porsche forums as well. I enjoy reading, but man they do contain some interesting advice....
 
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Hi SDS,

Could I clarify a few things please? I’ll just add notes to your original paragraphs to avoid any further confusion.


Peter:
I think you are creating a straw man. I don't think I have said there is only one viscosity or brand that is best, nor do I think LN/Charles Navarro is saying that in his article (which i'm still not sure you've read).
It wasn’t my intention but I think this is an unfortunate result of my talking generally about a variety of Porsche engine related issues and not specifically recognising that your interest lies with the M67 engine. I confirm I’ve read Charley’s article a number of times over the last 18 months and I’ve shifted from initial strong agreement to a state of lesser acceptance of some of his assertions. That’s Ok, I accept he is doing this in good faith. I'm not sure I can say about some of the other peddlers.

I am not an expert in oil or engines, but I do read what the "experts" have to share with us laypeople (whether, Doug H., Charles, or Jake Raby of Flat 6). I have decided to follow the recommendation for higher ZDDP oil (regardless of brand) in a 5W40 full synthetic because of the rationale these experts have stated, which sounds logical to me. Further, Jake Raby/Flat 6 builds engines and re-builds blown engines and in the process he advised us that they measure for engine wear and test different oils, brands and weights.
I agree with the approach you are taking by following your engine builder’s advice. I cannot see any disadvantage whatsoever in doing this and I would do the same. However I cannot see how he can provide definitive advice that a high ZDDP/5w-40 oil is going to save your engine from destruction. I think the M67 issues are far more complicated than the type of engine oil used. If he was to say something like: “We’ve had good results with high ZDDP/5w-40 oil in this engine and we recommend our customers use it too”, I can’t criticise. My issue is with the “definitiveness” of the advice.

You or the OP may read their recommendations and decide you simply don't need to follow their advice and continue to use Mobil 0W40, or any other brand and weight and I completely respect your decision to do so. But, you have not addressed the substance of their findings -- which is a 5W40 (in a watercooled) is better than a 0w40 for HTHS, and a higher ZDDP oil provides better protection (based on their own testing and engine build/tear down). Now, at the end of the day, I have no way of proving whether the next 75 or 100k on the clock will be better for following their recommendations, since -- I'm not tearing down my engine now or until it needs a rebuild.
Continuing the “definitiveness” issue further, I don’t think anyone has the hard data, except possibly Porsche, to prove one lubricant is better than another. It’s interesting that Porsche don’t even discriminate between the various brand A40 accredited oils. They say they are all equal. Expecting the various engine builders have access to sufficient engines doing long mileages under controlled conditions to give similar statistically valid advice is I think a long shot.

Since I don't own an air-cooled 911, the best I can say is that I'd go with a 5W50 or 15W50 if I had to make that decision during summer since temps where I live get to Vegas hot (115); and maybe a 5W40 would be fine the remainder of the year.
I agree. I’d also prefer if the oil meets A3/B4 and A40 as well to give me the greatest confidence (and also ensures the important minimum HTHS requirement is meet.) After saying that I’m happily using a HDEO in one car as well (meets the HTHS requirement by virtue of meeting the ACEA E7 spec and 1500ppm of Zinc from a period where I used to suffer from a ZDDP anxiety because I didn’t know any better and was trying to solve a problem I didn’t actually have!) I guess this just illustrates that there are many ways to skin this cat and there are more than one good oil brand and type to use.

Further, since I now have a flat 6 IMS Solution, I'm going to follow the recommendation because this is the weight they tested for their product and there is no reason not to use a 5W40 (other than for winter in Colorado where a 0W40 may provide slightly better performance where temps do indeed fall to -28 degrees F or colder for short periods of time).
I agree. I also agree with your approach of using a plain bearing to properly solve the IMS bearing engineering issue. I don’t agree with many like Wayne Dempsey of Pelican fame that suggest that the IMS bearing issue is caused or can be influenced by oil selection.

So, no argument here -- not selling anything to anyone. Just making the best informed decision I can make recognizing that Porsche has changed its recommendations over time in terms of oil and weight, ambient temps, Mobil pays a lot of money to get that sticker placed on the Porsche cars; and we have to recognize in the US that CAFE and emissions plays a role in what the manufacturer recommends.
No argument here either, just trying to separate fact from fallacy and ease the anxiety that I and many enthusiasts have over oil selection. My suggesting that we should use A3/B4 oils definitely does not support to use of low SAP’s and CAFE and emission reduction style oils for our cars. I think Porsche changing its recommendations through the TSB process over the years is just a reflection that we keep driving their old cars for decades and oil technology has progressed in this time. I’d like to use Mobil 1 too but it is prohibitively expensive to do so here in Australia and this is why I have been seeking suitable alternatives based on some sort of sensible logic.

Enough said.
You don’t really mean that! Please take my comments as happy banter, open to (preferably constructive) criticism. At the end of the day it is only engine oil we’re talking about!

Regards
 
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The simplest and mst effective answer is to contact Dave at Redline and tell him all about the car and it's usage pattern. He will recommend the very best choice available
 
Originally Posted By: Olas
The simplest and mst effective answer is to contact Dave at Redline and tell him all about the car and it's usage pattern. He will recommend the very best choice available


Olas, why are you so confident in Redline oils? What is so special about them? As you maybe know in some parts of Europe hill climb are very popular, you would be surprised how many of those Cosworts, Integrales, S4 Deltas and offcourse varius VW pushing out 500-700 HP are using Motul 300V products. I'm not saying they are absolute best, just saying my friends experience (the ones that actually participate in those events).
 
Motul certainly promotes itself in racing. Red Line has been good at that for a number of years, too. Nonetheless, I wouldn't doubt the ability of either Motul or Red Line. To add to their aura, they're both oppressively expensive in Canada.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Peter_M
Originally Posted By: supercity
Would people here feel comfortable using a C3 formulation that was 229.51 and A40 approved?


Super,
Is there such a beast?

While C3 gives the required HTHS for our purposes, I would think the 229.5 and the C3 specs would be at odds with each other. Similarly with A40 and C3.

Happy to be corrected!


229.5 will align with A3/B4 but 229.51 will align with C3

There are many C3 formulations that at least claim A40, 2 examples below.

Motul

Valvoline
 
Well there you go! Thanks Supercity.

I guess the question of feeling comfortable using a C3 formulation that also has 229.51 and A40 accreditation probably comes down to two things:
Are you a high or a mid SAPS person and
Do you have a DPF equipped diesel daily driver along with your classic flat sixes and want to simplify oil stocks.

Objectively the answer has to be "yes" if you preference A40 over A3/B4.
 
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Originally Posted By: Peter_M
Well there you go! Thanks Supercity.

I guess the question of feeling comfortable using a C3 formulation that also has 229.51 and A40 accreditation probably comes down to two things:
Are you a high or a mid SAPS person and
Do you have a DPF equipped diesel daily driver along with your classic flat sixes and want to simplify oil stocks.

Objectively the answer has to be "yes" if you preference A40 over A3/B4.



Well that's a rather pragmatic view for this place, I applaud you!
 
Bumping a very informative thread five years later...
I just redid my turbocharged air-cooled 3.3L engine and would like to hear from y’all if there has been any newer formulations that might better address the horror stories of clogged cam spray bars from coking due to turbocharger heat-soak.
 
Bumping a very informative thread five years later...
I just redid my turbocharged air-cooled 3.3L engine and would like to hear from y’all if there has been any newer formulations that might better address the horror stories of clogged cam spray bars from coking due to turbocharger heat-soak.

You managed to coke Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5W-40? If so I doubt anything will stop it.
 
You managed to coke Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5W-40? If so I doubt anything will stop it.

Delvac was only discussed in terms of water-cooled, N/A engines in this thread from what I can tell, and I didn’t say I was using it. But you knew that. Just looked at a handful of your 3,900+ posts and most are more helpful. Thanks though.
 
Delvac was only discussed in terms of water-cooled, N/A engines in this thread from what I can tell, and I didn’t say I was using it. But you knew that. Just looked at a handful of your 3,900+ posts and most are more helpful. Thanks though.

Doug Hillary as I recall always recommended it when a higher HTHS was called for like an Air Cooled Porsche. If you have qualms about about running an HDEO you might look to some of the Motul formulations. Understand that I have no personal experience running an Air Cooled Turbo Porsche. I ran 15W-40 HDEO in the one air cooled Porsche I've had and it was built in '72 so likely has no real bearing on your situation.
 
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