5w30 in a spec 5w20

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
And, has anyone been able to show any results?

Exactly. It's been asked a lot, sure. However, I've never seen anyone actually flat out state they got a warranty claim refused from using a 5w-30 in a 5w-20 application, either.

 

[hatt]

Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: hatt
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Does ANYONE have ANY kind of proof that an auto manufacturer voided an engines warranty due to it failing from the use of 5W30 oil when the manual specifically stated to use 5W20 oil?

That question has been asked 100 times.

And, has anyone been able to show any results?
Nope. Someone will be along to talk about Toyota denying claims however. Even though that situation didn't appear to have anything to do with the question.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: tig1
What does F1 engines have to do with it?


What does F1 engines NOT have to do with lubrication ?

HTHS
MOFT
Boundary running
Surface speeds and pressures
Surface materials, finishes and coatings
additive technology and utilisation

(and there were other facets in the other links I provided)


18,000 RPM?

 

[Garak]

They don't rev quite that high anymore, tig1.

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: tig1
What does F1 engines have to do with it?


What does F1 engines NOT have to do with lubrication ?

HTHS
MOFT
Boundary running
Surface speeds and pressures
Surface materials, finishes and coatings
additive technology and utilisation

(and there were other facets in the other links I provided)


18,000 RPM?


The rest of my post that you are ingonring ?

Again, you don't get hydrodynamics...at 18,000RPM they won't be in boundary lubrication, they will be full hydrodynamic.

It's the lower rev ranges where the transition to boundary comes in, and the thinner the oils, the higher in the range that happens...that's where their statements apply to anything that spins in plain bearings.

But back to the other links in the same post, in their L13 engine tests (not F1), boundary/mixed was present up to 2,500RPM on some of the (lower) viscosity oils tested.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: Garak
They don't rev quite that high anymore, tig1.

What are the revs today? Probably way more than my Fords.

 

[geeman789]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
there are a few engines that would not like it, a hemi with mds, and the chain driven subaru's. probably others but in general 5w30 will be fine in yours.




I'm not sure what part about a Subaru having a timing chain makes your point, but I would love to hear it.


Don't timing chain engines tend to chew up and shear the oil somewhat faster than a timing belt engine, thus making a thicker grade of oil potentially beneficial to a small degree...?

The general consensu with the new Subaru engines is that timing chains shear oil, turbos shear oil, and DI dilutes the oil... none of which seem to support Subaru's move to 0w20 oil with longer OCI's...

One could argue that Subaru, with its notoriously "poor..." fleet mileage, specs the 20 grade for only one reason... and it's spelled CAFE.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: geeman789
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
there are a few engines that would not like it, a hemi with mds, and the chain driven subaru's. probably others but in general 5w30 will be fine in yours.




I'm not sure what part about a Subaru having a timing chain makes your point, but I would love to hear it.


Don't timing chain engines tend to chew up and shear the oil somewhat faster than a timing belt engine, thus making a thicker grade of oil potentially beneficial to a small degree...?

The general consensu with the new Subaru engines is that timing chains shear oil, turbos shear oil, and DI dilutes the oil... none of which seem to support Subaru's move to 0w20 oil with longer OCI's...

One could argue that Subaru, with its notoriously "poor..." fleet mileage, specs the 20 grade for only one reason... and it's spelled CAFE.


The Modular has timing chains, big long ones. So does the Mopar 4.7. The LSx and HEMI also have chains, just much smaller/shorter ones. Honda also uses chains, as does Toyota on some applications, applications that spec a 20-weight

I don't think the presence of a chain over a belt is an issue.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: tig1
What are the revs today? Probably way more than my Fords.

I think they're 15,000 and under, so they have come down!

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: geeman789
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
there are a few engines that would not like it, a hemi with mds, and the chain driven subaru's. probably others but in general 5w30 will be fine in yours.




I'm not sure what part about a Subaru having a timing chain makes your point, but I would love to hear it.


Don't timing chain engines tend to chew up and shear the oil somewhat faster than a timing belt engine, thus making a thicker grade of oil potentially beneficial to a small degree...?

The general consensu with the new Subaru engines is that timing chains shear oil, turbos shear oil, and DI dilutes the oil... none of which seem to support Subaru's move to 0w20 oil with longer OCI's...

One could argue that Subaru, with its notoriously "poor..." fleet mileage, specs the 20 grade for only one reason... and it's spelled CAFE.


The Modular has timing chains, big long ones. So does the Mopar 4.7. The LSx and HEMI also have chains, just much smaller/shorter ones. Honda also uses chains, as does Toyota on some applications, applications that spec a 20-weight

I don't think the presence of a chain over a belt is an issue.


I have had the Ford 4.6(I used M1 10-30) with it's long chain and both Duratechs have chains. There doesn't seem to be any effect on the M1 0-20 I use in the Duratechs.

 

[sdude2k2000]

No issue here either with a timing chain on my wife's V6 Fusion... and all I've used is 5w20. My one UOA that I did a few years back (using Motorcraft semi-syn 5w20) came back great... viscosity holding just fine. It doesn't consume any oil over a 5k - 7.5k OCI either.

 

[Tony10s]

Originally Posted By: dothedrew1202
sorry for the dead horse, I'm out on my phone so I can't really search. I saw Kendall full syn for 2.99 at my 99 cent store but it was only 5w30. Would you put it in a 5w20 still under warranty?


I have used 5W-30 motor oil in my Elantra, which has 5W-20 on the oil cap; however, my manual says that 5W-20 is recommended, but 5W-30 can be used as well (and also 10W-30 for temperatures > 0 deg F).

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Originally Posted By: Tony10s
Originally Posted By: dothedrew1202
sorry for the dead horse, I'm out on my phone so I can't really search. I saw Kendall full syn for 2.99 at my 99 cent store but it was only 5w30. Would you put it in a 5w20 still under warranty?


I have used 5W-30 motor oil in my Elantra, which has 5W-20 on the oil cap; however, my manual says that 5W-20 is recommended, but 5W-30 can be used as well (and also 10W-30 for temperatures > 0 deg F).

All over America there are Holy Grail 5W20 oil users only passing out left and right after reading your reply.

 

[Tony10s]

Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: Tony10s
Originally Posted By: dothedrew1202
sorry for the dead horse, I'm out on my phone so I can't really search. I saw Kendall full syn for 2.99 at my 99 cent store but it was only 5w30. Would you put it in a 5w20 still under warranty?


I have used 5W-30 motor oil in my Elantra, which has 5W-20 on the oil cap; however, my manual says that 5W-20 is recommended, but 5W-30 can be used as well (and also 10W-30 for temperatures > 0 deg F).

All over America there are Holy Grail 5W20 oil users only passing out left and right after reading your reply.

I just provided the info that is in my owner's manual .... 5W-20 is recommended in the manual, but the manual states that 5W-30 can be used as well, along with 10W-30 for temperatures > 0 deg F. Just to simplify things for myself, from now on I will be running whatever is spec'd/recommended for my car on the oil cap/in the owner's manual (for my current car and any other cars I buy in the future). 5W-20 motor oil can be run year round; there's no need for me to run a different viscosity in my current car.

 

[fmia]

5w30 won't hurt a thing.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: Tony10s
Originally Posted By: dothedrew1202
sorry for the dead horse, I'm out on my phone so I can't really search. I saw Kendall full syn for 2.99 at my 99 cent store but it was only 5w30. Would you put it in a 5w20 still under warranty?


I have used 5W-30 motor oil in my Elantra, which has 5W-20 on the oil cap; however, my manual says that 5W-20 is recommended, but 5W-30 can be used as well (and also 10W-30 for temperatures > 0 deg F).


Same thing in my elantra, in fact the owners manual states you many need a heavier oil in hot weather.
I run 0w or 5w 20 in the winter and 5w 30 summer.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: Tony10s
Originally Posted By: dothedrew1202
sorry for the dead horse, I'm out on my phone so I can't really search. I saw Kendall full syn for 2.99 at my 99 cent store but it was only 5w30. Would you put it in a 5w20 still under warranty?


I have used 5W-30 motor oil in my Elantra, which has 5W-20 on the oil cap; however, my manual says that 5W-20 is recommended, but 5W-30 can be used as well (and also 10W-30 for temperatures > 0 deg F).


Same thing in my elantra, in fact the owners manual states you many need a heavier oil in hot weather.
I run 0w or 5w 20 in the winter and 5w 30 summer.


I don't understand why you, and others like you, just don't use the same weight oil during all seasons. I am not dogging you, or trying to be sarcastic, or even trying to ruffle your feathers. I mean, the oils you stated in the sentence I quoted, are so similar to each other that you can just pick one and use it all year round.
Ah well, if you sleep better at night doing it your way then go for it!

I am guilty of something similar; I always use a new oil filter at every OCI and some members dog me for that; the ones that think that at each OCI, instead of throwing the used oil filter away, use it again. And, my answer to that is, "One Filter, One OCI!"

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
[
I don't understand why you, and others like you, just don't use the same weight oil during all seasons. I am not dogging you, or trying to be sarcastic, or even trying to ruffle your feathers. I mean, the oils you stated in the sentence I quoted, are so similar to each other that you can just pick one and use it all year round.
Ah well, if you sleep better at night doing it your way then go for it!

I am guilty of something similar; I always use a new oil filter at every OCI and some members dog me for that; the ones that think that at each OCI, instead of throwing the used oil filter away, use it again. And, my answer to that is, "One Filter, One OCI!"

I don't take it as a dig, its a legitimate question. I'm simply following the owners manual. 2013 hydai elantra 1.8.
Chapter 8 page 5

"lower viscosity engine oils can provide better fuel economy and cold weather performance, however, higher viscosity engine oils are required for satisfactory lubrication in hot weather."

This above quote is straight from the manual. Since 5w20 is the lightest oil specified, I go by the chart that lists 5w30 as and acceptable oil, and even 10w 30 from O deg F and up.

Therefore i run 5w or 0w 20 winter and 5w 30 summer ( plus i have a about 3 changes of each weight i bought on clearance for $2.00 a quart.)

 

[KCJeep]

I do the same thing in our KIA, though here it is June and I still have the 5w20 "winter" fill in because the miles are not up yet and I'm not gonna waste it.

Not concerned though I do prefer 5w30.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
[
I don't understand why you, and others like you, just don't use the same weight oil during all seasons. I am not dogging you, or trying to be sarcastic, or even trying to ruffle your feathers. I mean, the oils you stated in the sentence I quoted, are so similar to each other that you can just pick one and use it all year round.
Ah well, if you sleep better at night doing it your way then go for it!

I am guilty of something similar; I always use a new oil filter at every OCI and some members dog me for that; the ones that think that at each OCI, instead of throwing the used oil filter away, use it again. And, my answer to that is, "One Filter, One OCI!"

I don't take it as a dig, its a legitimate question. I'm simply following the owners manual. 2013 hydai elantra 1.8.
Chapter 8 page 5

"lower viscosity engine oils can provide better fuel economy and cold weather performance, however, higher viscosity engine oils are required for satisfactory lubrication in hot weather."

This above quote is straight from the manual. Since 5w20 is the lightest oil specified, I go by the chart that lists 5w30 as and acceptable oil, and even 10w 30 from O deg F and up.

Therefore i run 5w or 0w 20 winter and 5w 30 summer ( plus i have a about 3 changes of each weight i bought on clearance for $2.00 a quart.)

My trucks engine oil cap reads "5w20" oil. My owners manual reads to use 5W20 oil.
The Ford 4.2 V6 engine was built from 1997 until 2008. It was originally spec'd 5W30 oil in 1997 up until the year 2000. From 2001-2008 Ford recommended 5W20 oil, and back spec'd 5W20 oil for earlier built 4.2's as well. The 4.2's clearances and tolerances have stayed the same since it was first built in 1997 until it was put out of production in 2008. I currently have 5W20 oil in my engine now but have used both 5W20 and 5W30 since it was new. (6 miles)