Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: dja4260
Originally Posted By: dernp
I've dug and set fence posts as a side job for the past 25 yrs. For 6 x 6 posts I use 12" auger. No need for sono tubes as long as you are below grade. Use 100-120lbs cement per hole.. No gravel in bottom just kick in a little dirt once the post is in the ground and tamp dirt down with your level to keep post upright. Pour in cement until 4" from top of hole. Kick in more dirt. Plumb again and let post set for 48 hrs.
What depth would you dig down too? Chicago area.
Can I do a 8in hole for the 4x4?
Wow. If that isn't a half [censored]ed way to build I can't say what is. Why do a halfway job. You've got the hole dug and a sonotube decreases concrete cost.
If I saw someone doing that on my site id hand them a shovel and tell them to dig it up and try again.
Op.
Use a sonotube. Less concrete which is a significant cost. For just regular posts you need to dig 48" to be under the frost line. If the posts are supporting a gate I like to go 6' deep to prevent the gates from sagging b
I'm an inter-provincial journeyman carpenter. If you'd like advice from an actual professional pm me and I'll happily walk you thru fence building.
And I don't pour any concrete until the fence is finished. I brace the posts solid. Build the center sections. Install them then pour once it's finished. It makes the assembly and finished product far better because you can twist the posts square to the fence sections and don't have to accomodate for inconsistencies because there aren't any.
I've easliy built 10000 lineal foot of fence. By myself. My methods and system is second to none with finished product being the most important part.
I've never once had to ask for a cheque because my customers gladly pay nor have I had to come back to make adjustments.
The only call back I've ever gotten is when the farm owner hit the gate post with his tractor and bent it,pushing the buried part of the post over 6 inches.
I had him dig it up,then we braced it straight and backfilled.
And post rot can be an issue. If you fill the post hole with crushed rock it aids water drainage extending the life of the post.
If you want to take shortcuts go ahead,but you only cheat yourself.
I've never seen this method used, but, whatever works.
as a young whipper, I did many of these jobs.
about 3 weeks ago, I went to a friend's place where we did a very similar job, some years back.
a 14" diameter hole, no sonotube. cost was not an issue, but the sonotube will cost more than an extra bag or so of cement, per hole.as well, there are only 2 holes involved.
about 54" deep hole, with about 6" of 3/4" clear stone. we paint waterproofing on anything below grade, especially the cut ends,the day beforethe job.this has always worked for me.
if we walk through the gate, my friend still makes comments about it's strength.he says we built it 17 years ago.proof enough that our method works well.
longevity of the job is the true test of workmanship -- regardless of your method.
have a good day, all.