Hydro-Gear oil change experiance?

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I just drained the fluid in my CC hydro unit after 215hrs. I can't believe how metallic it was. Instead of refilling with the Mobil 1 I had planned on, I refilled with some FAR Maxlife 5w-30 just to flush it. After running around the yard for about 15min I drained it to find it still loaded with metallic. I'm thinking of filling with kero and running it on jackstands(no load) to further flush it.
How has everyone else dealt with this? Is it normal to have such metallic fluid?
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Is this unit actually specifying 5w-30 engine oil?


No, it specs 20w50. I just used the 5w30 to flush it. The final fill will be Mobil 1 15w50. Riding around the yard the 5w30 seemed to perform just fine though.
 
LT1554.
I just did two flushes with kero and one more with 5w30. There's still noticeable metallic in the oil but much less. Time to use the M1 and put everything back together.
 
You'll easily have doubled to tripled the life of this unit having changed the oil on it. Did you have to remove the arse-end to drain/fill? I know 5-6yrs back, HydroGear included a drain plug on some of the hydros for the Cub 1K series. There is an internal screen/filter on these, but you'd have to split the case to get at it.
 
Yes I had to remove the "arse-end" to get to the fill plug. Drain plug was easy. I would have liked to split the case and clean everything properly but just not willing to put any more time into it. I'd still like to know if the metallic is normal.
 
Flaky metallic sheen in the drained oil is normal. Actual metallic chips/chunks that you could feel? Not so much.
 
That's what I had, "flaky metallic sheen". I tried filtering through triple thickness of paper towel hoping to reuse the kero but absolutely nothing got filtered out.
 
Totally normal. 5w30 won't hurt it, but you might get some pump cavitation when it gets hot and under-load with that viscosity range. I'd run 15w40 or 20w50 in it.

Keep the trans blown-off with a leaf blower after each use to keep the cooling fins open.
 
My '77 IH Cadet Cub 80 specs Hy-Trans hydraulic oil. Smallest size available was a 2 gallon jug of Universal spec hydraulic oil for 20$. I did a drain and fill this spring. Last yr, I took off the plate and exposed the hydro. I cleaned 40 yrs of crud off the cooling fins. That seemed to help quiet down the whine I was getting. The new oil seems to have helped the whine too. I'm not going to put on the new drive belts I bought just yet.
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Originally Posted By: RRich
I just drained the fluid in my CC hydro unit after 215hrs. I can't believe how metallic it was.


I went through a similar experience over the last couple of weeks with a second-hand CC Z-Force ZTR with Hydrogear ZT-2800 hydros and 450 hours on the clock. According to the previous owner, the oil had been changed once at 100 hours.

I was experiencing cavitation (with accompanying loud noise and "mushy" operation) in the right side hydro when it got up to temperature. I checked the temperatures at the pumps on both sides with an IR thermometer, and the right side was getting MUCH hotter (usually ~10 degrees C hotter), so I decided to change the oil.

I changed it with Castrol 20w-50 and new filters. The oil I drained out of the right side hydro was BURNT (black), with metallic sheen. I thought I had done some real damage to the hydro. I ran it with the Castrol for about 5 hours, watching the temps closely. The temps improved, but the right side was always about 5-6 degrees C hotter than the left.

After the 5 hours, I changed the oil and filters again, this time with Mobil 1 15w-50. I have since checked the pump temps on each side frequently, and they are both always within 1-2 degrees of each other, and overall temperatures are down 7-8 degrees from when I bought the ZTR. I've put ~15 hours on the unit since the switch to M1, and the oil still looks good and operation is smooth, strong and quiet.

...as a side note: I determined later that the reason the oil burnt in the right side hydro was that the bracket to hold the bypass lever in place was not adjusted correctly, and it was slipping into bypass during operation of the mower. This overworked the pump, and therefore burnt the oil. I have since adjusted it, and everything is operating perfectly.
 
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Tbone, good info on your ZT2800s! I haven't seen any reports of them approaching the 500hr mark yet. I had ZT2800s on my 2010 model year Cub Z-force ZTR. Really nice drives.
 
JTK, are you by chance JMoe on MTF? If you are, thanks! The thread "Z Force hydro oil change" and other discussions about your 44 fab have been a big help!
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I couldn't agree more about the ZT2800. I was initially very concerned about durability after I saw that oil, but I'm impressed. Actually, I'm pretty impressed with the whole ZForce package. The thing is built like a tank.
 
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Originally Posted By: Tbone289
JTK, are you by chance JMoe on MTF? If you are, thanks! The thread "Z Force hydro oil change" and other discussions about your 44 fab have been a big help!
wink.gif



Yep, that's me. I've got to get over there more. It's been some time. I much prefer the discussions and info there than most other OPE sites.
 
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