2008 Mecury Milan AWD (V6), 1st time oil change

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Please share your experiences and required tools with me.

What size of drain plug does it use? Does it come with a plastic cover for filter and oil pan (saw a video showing that, and you need to remove 3-4 extra bolts to get to the filter).

What wrench do I need to use to prevent rounding the drain plug (has that happened before and prevented my oil change trial).

So far I have: jack, and stands; 1/4 and 3/8 drive with sockets in both metric/english (craftsman 104 piece), oil filter wrench, 1/2 drive bolt out set (to remove damaged bolts).

Thanks so much.
 
Without knowledge of your strength, or who last changed the oil...I'd recommend a 3/8" breaker bar. As well, an actual oil filter wrench (that can be utilized with a socket wrench) makes life easier.
 
Welcome to the forum!

I whole-heartedly recommend a good set of ramps. Rhino Ramps or similar are extremely strong and very handy -- sturdier than a jack and stands and easier to use as well -- just drive on up. I try to minimize my time under the car while up on jack stands, and the only time I use them is when I have a wheel off.
 
It sounds like you have it made. Please take your time and use double or triple redundancy, unless it confuses you.

I dont think I would trust plastic ramps more so than ferrous jack stands!h
 
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Welcome to the forum!

I whole-heartedly recommend a good set of ramps. Rhino Ramps or similar are extremely strong and very handy -- sturdier than a jack and stands and easier to use as well -- just drive on up. I try to minimize my time under the car while up on jack stands, and the only time I use them is when I have a wheel off.


Welcome! I would agree with the ramps. Makes life easier. Beyond that you got everything you need. Happy changing. Just remember to use some fresh oil on the oil filter gasket and snug it. No need to go gorilla on the oil filter.
 
3.5 L v6? MY2008, should be a 15mm socket, I put a fumoto on my sable(same engine)and no extension is needed. That was before they changed the filter in Jan 2009, so it will take a fl-400s or other 3600 equivalent. No annoying plastic covers on the Taurus/Sable, never been under a Fusion/Milan/MKZ to know if they have do....
 
Also, I have a question regarding the transmission fluid change. This one does not have an easy serviceable trans filter, so the dealer are going to do flush, or DIY drain and flush. Now the car hits 70k miles, and I believed trans fluid was flushed back at 30k, I wanted to flush it for once now and later on will try to do DIY.

My dealers quoted 200-290 (not including tax and supplies) for the flush. I saw somewhere people say Ford has a special tool to do backflush transmission. It sounds like a different, specialty service, but when I asked around, nobody in the dealerships I called would admit or even know about it, they said it's the same machine other shops are using. Why should I use the dealer if other shop does the same for cheaper? Anyone knows the fact? I do notice those chain shops do not warranty transmission flush (Goodyear, for example), forgot to ask about the dealer though.
 
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When I try something for the first time, when I might need a replacement bolt or two, I do the service while the dealership parts dept. is open.

My daughter had her trans fluid flushed at 90k on her 2011 Escape for $179 at the Ford dealer. Might want to call around.
 
There are a couple tools I wouldn't be without when changing oil.

The first one is a Lisle 63600 oil filter wrench. It puts the most torque, never slips, and always gets off every single filter no problem, even the ones that are practically welded on.

Lisle 63600
41gd0o9Ph8L._SY355_.jpg


And the other tool that I always grab is a 3/8 extendable Stanley 3/8 ratchet. I have much nicer ratchets, but I much prefer to just grab the extendable since I can extend it and have more leverage. Beats having to get off the ground and go grab a longer ratchet when the one you grabbed doesn't give you enough torque. Harbor Freight, Neiko, Ampro, Stanley, and others make affordable options.

Stanley extendable 3/8 ratchet
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-92-645-8-Inch-Extendable-Set/dp/B000NIK9XM

Always use 6 point sockets. 12 points are more likely to strip the oil drain plug.

A jack and stands can certainly work, but I like the ease of use of Rhino ramps and feel that they are probably safer to use also. Buy the Rhino ramps at Advance Auto parts with one of their online 40% off coupons and they are quite affordable that way.
 
I hate myself for hesitating on that ramp deal @AAP. Now they change the coding of their site, and the ramp would not take any further discount.

Originally Posted By: bubbatime
There are a couple tools I wouldn't be without when changing oil.

The first one is a Lisle 63600 oil filter wrench. It puts the most torque, never slips, and always gets off every single filter no problem, even the ones that are practically welded on.

Lisle 63600
41gd0o9Ph8L._SY355_.jpg


And the other tool that I always grab is a 3/8 extendable Stanley 3/8 ratchet. I have much nicer ratchets, but I much prefer to just grab the extendable since I can extend it and have more leverage. Beats having to get off the ground and go grab a longer ratchet when the one you grabbed doesn't give you enough torque. Harbor Freight, Neiko, Ampro, Stanley, and others make affordable options.

Stanley extendable 3/8 ratchet
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-92-645-8-Inch-Extendable-Set/dp/B000NIK9XM

Always use 6 point sockets. 12 points are more likely to strip the oil drain plug.

A jack and stands can certainly work, but I like the ease of use of Rhino ramps and feel that they are probably safer to use also. Buy the Rhino ramps at Advance Auto parts with one of their online 40% off coupons and they are quite affordable that way.
 
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