Been emailing back and forth with Royal purple

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So I've been emailing Royal purple back and forth about a few of there oils. I wanted to get more info on there 5w40 and 0w40 for my audi that I have. The person I have been speaking with has been very helpful and when I asked him about shearing issues with RP this is what he sent me

"No Royal Purple engine oil, or any reputable engine oil (synthetic or conventional) should produce sludge in a engine unless it has been contaminated by water, coolant and/or excess fuel, or if it has been used well beyond it’s intended useful life.

All RP oils are shear stable, and shearing is not really something that is presenting an issue on any of our oils, as long as they are used within the parameters of our change interval recommendation. I have included an email response below that was sent from my supervisor to a customer regarding some of the information you will find on the internet about a oil shearing. The email response from my supervisor:

"There is a lot of misinformation on the internet spread by individuals that do not know how to properly interpret used analysis reports, as well as by Amsoil and their “independent distributors”. In appropriate automotive service I would not expect to see meaningful shearing of the VI of ANY reputable oil, whether it is Amsoil, Royal Purple, Castrol, Pennzoil, Mobil 1, or any other quality oil. Reputable engine oils that are commonly available in the US, Canada, and Europe really don’t have this problem. There are two primary sources for information that claim a particular oil “sheared”: 1. On a forum to which someone has posted a UOA (used oil analysis) report; and 2. An Amsoil affiliated website.

UOA Reports:
Most of the time, when an internet forum thread contains a used oil analysis report that shows a particular oil “sheared”, the root cause is usually dilution by fuel and/or coolant. These UOA reports typically have a column or row that specifically lists fuel and glycol content, so a commenter may point out that the report shows little to no fuel or coolant. However, the tests used to determine fuel and glycol are notoriously inaccurate with some lubricant chemistries. Determining actual used oil condition is a trending process (not just one sample) and several analysis methods may need to be employed. The UOA reports posted are almost always from the same lab, and include only elemental spectrometry, viscosity (sometimes at only one temperature) and maybe flash point. Dilution of the oil can be determined by a drop in viscosity with a corresponding drop in elemental content. However, without a new/unused baseline to actually compare the used sample to, the real reduction in viscosity and elemental content cannot be determined. Please note the “Universal Averages” are universally incorrect.

The individual that posts the UOA report typically deduces “shearing” based only on a reduction in viscosity. This is to be expected, though, because the defined ranges for SAE viscosity grades are easily available (search for SAE J300). Conversely, the elemental content for a particular oil formulation is not widely available (because manufacturers don’t typically list formulation information) and actual numbers for a particular bottle of oil will vary slightly from the elemental content of a different bottle of the same oil that was made in a different batch. Automotive lubricants are almost always made in batch production of several thousands of gallons at a time, and slight batch to batch variations in finished product are a fact of lubricant production. Another tool that labs use in oil analysis is an infrared scan (FTIR is most common). The IR scan provides qualitative information on the molecular compounds that are in the sample, vs. the elemental analysis that only shows elements. Pro Tip: Lubricants are not manufactured with elements, rather molecular compounds, so an elemental oil analysis report provides very little useful detail on the sample oil’s formulation.

I’m getting off-track a bit, but the take away from all of the above is that the UOAs often posted online tell an incomplete story. Also, the person on the forum interpreting the report often doesn’t have a deep enough understanding to provide an accurate “diagnosis”.

Amsoil White Papers and “Testing”:
In a nutshell, most of the information provided in these documents is meaningless (at best) and misleading/inaccurate (at worst). Amsoil alters test parameters (temperatures, loads, speeds, etc.) in the some of the “standardized” ASTM tests they purport to use, and they rarely publish the actual test data and how many times they ran a particular test to achieve the results. Also, most of the ASTM tests they run against competitor oils are not meant to be comparative between candidate oils. These tests are meant to be PASS/FAIL against a reference oil only because the tests have repeatability and reproducibility errors as high as 20%. The bar graphs most commonly published by Amsoil are worthless. Furthermore, we have caught them spreading absolute lies about competitors. For example, Amsoil claimed that we (Royal Purple) use molybdenum disulfide (an insoluble lubricity enhancer) in some of our engine oils, and that Cummins recommended against using RP engines oils. The problem with these claims is that we don’t use ANY insoluble additive in ANY of our lubricants AND we have approval letters from Cummins for our diesel engine oils. Amsoil makes very good lubricants, but their marketing has historically been inaccurate and misleading.

To summarize, Royal Purple oils do not shear in use in an appropriate application and within our guidelines. Furthermore, I have never seen a report of a Royal Purple engine oil that actually did shear; contamination is almost always the root cause of a significant change in viscosity and content. I would expect similarly good shear stability from Amsoil and other high-quality engine oils available. Though shearing an engine oil is certainly possible, it is extremely rare for a reputable oil to become damaged within its recommended usage."
 
On top of that I asked what group there oils are and he sent me this

"Royal Purple synthetic oils use a proprietary blend of premium synthetic base stocks, including Groups IV and V. The only non-synthetic consumer engine oil we offer is our Royal Purple Break-In Oil"

The fact he's been so helpful makes me want to try RP regardless of the stories. What do you guys think?
 
Originally Posted By: Foreignjunky
On top of that I asked what group there oils are and he sent me this

"Royal Purple synthetic oils use a proprietary blend of premium synthetic base stocks, including Groups IV and V. The only non-synthetic consumer engine oil we offer is our Royal Purple Break-In Oil"


Note what I've underlined. This also means that, under the current definition of synthetic in places that aren't Germany, that Group III base oils fall into that same category of "premium synthetic base stocks". The fact that they chose to emphasize but not make their reference exclusive to; using the term "including" rather than "of the type" or some other qualifier that excludes group III.

It is an elegant way of saying they use all types of base stocks currently classified as synthetic. They specifically mention IV and V because they know that's what you want to hear
smile.gif
 
Obviously I doubt they will tell everything they put in their motor oil and of course they will tell anyone what they want to here. That's marketing. But is it worth a try? Currently using Mobil 1 0w40 but want to try something else just because. Also not a fan of XOM. But will be using their 0w40 for winter purposes here in New York. Unless I decide to make the switch to RP then it will be there 0w40 for the winter and 5w40 now.
 
Originally Posted By: Foreignjunky
Obviously I doubt they will tell everything they put in their motor oil and of course they will tell anyone what they want to here. That's marketing. But is it worth a try? Currently using Mobil 1 0w40 but want to try something else just because. Also not a fan of XOM. But will be using their 0w40 for winter purposes here in New York. Unless I decide to make the switch to RP then it will be there 0w40 for the winter and 5w40 now.


The odds are high that RP buys their PAO (and probably other components) from XOM, so you are supporting them by proxy regardless
wink.gif


Is your Audi under warranty?
 
Quote:
Also, the person on the forum interpreting the report often doesn’t have a deep enough understanding to provide an accurate diagnosis.


You see, they're talking about me again.
grin2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Foreignjunky
Obviously I doubt they will tell everything they put in their motor oil and of course they will tell anyone what they want to here. That's marketing. But is it worth a try? Currently using Mobil 1 0w40 but want to try something else just because. Also not a fan of XOM. But will be using their 0w40 for winter purposes here in New York. Unless I decide to make the switch to RP then it will be there 0w40 for the winter and 5w40 now.


The odds are high that RP buys their PAO (and probably other components) from XOM, so you are supporting them by proxy regardless
wink.gif


Nope not under warranty
Is your Audi under warranty?
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Foreignjunky
Obviously I doubt they will tell everything they put in their motor oil and of course they will tell anyone what they want to here. That's marketing. But is it worth a try? Currently using Mobil 1 0w40 but want to try something else just because. Also not a fan of XOM. But will be using their 0w40 for winter purposes here in New York. Unless I decide to make the switch to RP then it will be there 0w40 for the winter and 5w40 now.


The odds are high that RP buys their PAO (and probably other components) from XOM, so you are supporting them by proxy regardless
wink.gif


Is your Audi under warranty?


Last one failed lol. But no not under warranty.
 
You're really obsessing over oil in a 13 year-old car, to the point where you've made at least three different accounts here. I imagine there are other preventative maintenance items that need to be taken care of.

Seriously, pick a decent synthetic 0w, 5w, or 10w-40 and stick with it. There are $5 rebates on Rotella T6 until the end of the month. That, or any of the 40-weight euro oils will be just fine. Change it regularly with a decent filter, and it'll be fine. If something fails, it won't be because of the oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Foreignjunky
Write down your question word for word and I'll be sure to email him.


"Oxidation as I understand it is related to the condition of the base oil, while TBN is related to the condition of the additive package. How does one interpret oxidation along with viscosity to determine if an oil is beyond its useful life".
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: Foreignjunky
Write down your question word for word and I'll be sure to email him.


"Oxidation as I understand it is related to the condition of the base oil, while TBN is related to the condition of the additive package. How does one interpret oxidation along with viscosity to determine if an oil is beyond its useful life".


Just asked, will let you know what is said. As for everyone else. Sorry for being a pest I just can't seem to decide. I don't want to use Mobil 1. I just don't. I haven't had good luck in the past and the only reason it's in there now is because at the time I needed an oil change quick so I used what I found easily to get by. I'm just trying to decide what's going to be best other than Mobil 1. Everytime I've posted everyone says Mobil 1. I want something else. And everytime I said I wanted something else then no one would tell me what was good or bad. I may be obsessing but it's just the way I am... Sorry...
 
Amsoil seems to market to those who really don't know. Amsoil is a fine oil. There just isn't enough difference in most oils at their respective price points to see a whole lot of difference in general passenger car pickup truck use.
 
Dude. This isn't rocket science here.

Porsche says any oil certified by them is equal to any other certified product. So look at the certification required and pick one. In the real world there is no difference.
 
Originally Posted By: Foreignjunky
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: Foreignjunky
Write down your question word for word and I'll be sure to email him.


"Oxidation as I understand it is related to the condition of the base oil, while TBN is related to the condition of the additive package. How does one interpret oxidation along with viscosity to determine if an oil is beyond its useful life".


Just asked, will let you know what is said. As for everyone else. Sorry for being a pest I just can't seem to decide. I don't want to use Mobil 1. I just don't. I haven't had good luck in the past and the only reason it's in there now is because at the time I needed an oil change quick so I used what I found easily to get by. I'm just trying to decide what's going to be best other than Mobil 1. Everytime I've posted everyone says Mobil 1. I want something else. And everytime I said I wanted something else then no one would tell me what was good or bad. I may be obsessing but it's just the way I am... Sorry...


Then use the Castrol 0w-40, which has basically all the same approvals as M1 0w-40. I'd recommend a SOPUS product, but they co-own Infinium with XOM, so you'd still have that passive association with XOM.

I've always had great results in anything I've ever run M1 in and M1 0w-40 is one of the finest oils on the planet used in everything from your everyday pedestrian VW gasser to the cars lapping at the 24hrs of LeMans. That, and its availability, is why it is so highly recommended on here. Of course choosing to dislike a company or product doesn't require a logical foundation for that emotion so if you choose to dislike XOM for whatever reason, you are more than welcome to.
 
Originally Posted By: Foreignjunky
And everytime I said I wanted something else then no one would tell me what was good or bad.

People told you on multiple occasions, but somehow you chose to ignore it all and instead continue to chase unicorns.

It's a friggin oil, not a brain surgery. If you don't like M1, just try something else that meets the requirements and move on. And if you still don't like it, then try yet another one. At the end of the day, it is your car and you have to decide. Nobody is going to do it for you. All we can do is offer opinions, and you know what they say about opinions...

If you have this much difficulty choosing engine oil, how do you make other everyday decisions in life? Is choosing what to eat for lunch equally debilitating for you?
smile.gif


I'm fully aware this is BITOG, but this is an extreme case of analysis paralysis here...
 
Oil nowadays is like kittys..all kittys is good kittys just some kittys is better than others haha...sad but true...:):)...flame suit on....
 
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