most powerful push mower on the market

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: bubbatime


One other option, most mowers engines today run really slow because of blade speed safety guidelines. I like to kick the RPM up 200 rpm or so if it is safe to do on that model. Might want to look into increasing your engine RPM.



So true, many of today's mowers are limited to 2700 RPM or 3000 RPM. So, the engines never make full HP. However, they are operated at/near their torque peak, so running them faster really won't help when it bogs down in thick grass.

That is where the Lawn Boy DuraForce engine shines. It makes peak torque just above idle. So thick grass is not much of a problem. It just keeps mowing. I dare you to stall one. You can't do it with anything other than a stump.

Another thought, change to a different style blade and make sure it's sharp. Some blades just don't work well.

I've always liked the "Ninja" blade.
 
Last edited:
The bluegrass/fescue/rye used in the upper midwest are cool season varieties that love your conditions. It's similar here in Michigan, but in my area the grass slows down by early June.

Your root problem seems to be that you can only mow once a week, when during the peak growth season you need to be mowing every 4 - 5 days. Hacking down 6-7" tall grass to 3" is not healthy for the grass or you.

-Can you pay a high school student to mow every other time for you during the peak?
-In addition to mower maintenance mentioned above, side discharge should require less hp than mulching or bagging.
-Don't fertilize in early spring. The grass is using the nutrients stored from last fall.

Good luck. Sorry to hear that your allergies turn good exercise and "brain chill time" into an evil chore.
 
To answer some questions

The mower is well maintained. I adjust valve lash once a year and do annual oil/plug
I sharpen the blade twice a year
The mower is set at the second from the top setting
If I were to bag id have To handle the grass, thus making my allergies worse. I have a "decontamination" process I go through so as to not be miserable for the rest of the night

I don't fertilize, why would I want to now more then I do? Plus my grass is green , but I live in an area that has both glacial till and was a river valley in the not distant past geologicly speaking so double whammy i guess

My allergies sick hard, I take pills, and I still end up with some sort of itchy eyes, or nose fountain

Kids in my area comand $20 a mow... that's too much. That's a vacation over the course of the mowing period

As to the mower, pushing isnt the chore. I could care less wether its self propelled. I have a large lot. And I have the empty lot next to my house and its large. Its also deeper than a normal lot., but its as flat as a pancake so it is just walking

A rider would be nice, but my house was built in '17 andthe garage in '25. The foundation is shifting from underneath it. There are gaps in the cinder blocks and the overhead door is mostly inoperative. And frankly its too small to fit a car in.we knew going in that it was an issue, so meh... but my ope has to go threw a doorway so it is what it is


About the only option I haven't explored is a more efficient blade, but I've heard they are all the same or so.
 
For a lawn that size, paying a kid $20 is more than reasonable. Most lawn care companies (and i'm in a poorer area) charge $30-$40 minimum - just to show up.

With the allergies and working long hours, it'd dang sure be worth $20 or $25 to me to not have to mess with it and fight allergies at the same time.

Everybody wants something for nothing these days. People gripe and whine about having to mow, but don't want to pay anything to have it done. Well - you can't have your cake and eat it too. Either do it yourself or pay someone - bottom line.

P.S. - sorry if I came off a little harsh, but it's a harsh reality of life. Also remember - you get what you pay for. If a kid with a push mower throws a rock through your car's window - do you think he has Liability Insurance to cover the damage?
 
Last edited:
We are diverging from the point though.

I will have to look into an old 2stoke lawn boy

Thanks
 
Originally Posted By: hansj3
...
About the only option I haven't explored is a more efficient blade, but I've heard they are all the same or so.


Honda's have a dual blade "fine cut" arrangement and they mulch much finer. As a result our Honda seems to power through tall or wet (or tall and wet) grass much better than the old 6.5 OHV John Deere did, even when the JD had a new blade.

Though your allergies seem worse than my wife's she did not notice the finer mulch causing her any more severe issues. She does wear a mask when she mows.

Worth looking into.
 
I used a 2-stroke Lawn Boy for several years. Carb was rebuilt. Exhaust port was de-carboned. New plug. It cut better than a 4-stroke. It would stall out in thick grass, but not as easily as a 4-stroke.

I now have a rear engine rider that fits through my door (27.5" blade). It's a 10 hp, and haven't stalled it out in 10 years.
 
I've been looking for a decent Lawn-Boy 22260 for several years, but haven't had any luck.

I found this Exmark, which may be close to you, and may fit through the door. That's something to consider.

In a new and standard size push mower, I think this Snapper is the most powerful.
 
All you who suggested - "look for a 2 cycle Lawn-Boy" mower, you move to the head of the class, and have answered correctly.

I have two of them, a Lawn Boy 22261 (with a 1 gallon gas tank), and a model 10552 (with the Personal Pace transmission).

They both have 6.5 HP and have enough torque to cut grass over the wheel height without stalling. As previously suggested, you can turn up the rpm's over 3000, to further enhance this ability. Since there is a high power to weight ratio (mower weighs only 80 pounds), it is kind of like piloting a jet fighter plane (as opposed to a heavy transport plane). You may be able to get away with cutting every two weeks, rather than every week.

You are fortunate to be living in the MN/WI area, where a great many were manufactured and sold. As a result, if you look around craigslist, you should not have difficulty picking up a 6.5 HP, early 2000's model, before they were banned.

Happy Hunting!
 
Originally Posted By: raytseng
Ill throw in my 2 cents of whats the condition of the mower. Specifically a new or super sharp blade can perform a lot more work without bogging down than a dull blade with the same hp. Same goes for say the spark fuel air etc If that is in good shape or not


Good points. I would also add keeping the underside of the mower free of dried up grass will also do wonders, especially if you mulch.
 
OK so to all of you who recommended a lawn boy thanks for the suggestion. I bought an old one for $15

I guess I will start a thread on it
 
Originally Posted By: hansj3
OK so to all of you who recommended a lawn boy thanks for the suggestion. I bought an old one for $15

I guess I will start a thread on it




$15? A steal!!! Looking forward to the thread!
 
Originally Posted By: super20dan
anything with a kawi fj180 motor. strongest lawnmower engine money can buy

Yes most quality money can buy too. Can't beat it. Lot better than Briggs. They will run for ever if well taken care of.
 
Originally Posted By: LX289
Originally Posted By: super20dan
anything with a kawi fj180 motor. strongest lawnmower engine money can buy

Yes most quality money can buy too. Can't beat it. Lot better than Briggs. They will run for ever if well taken care of.


^^ What they said!
 
Originally Posted By: super20dan
anything with a kawi fj180 motor. strongest lawnmower engine money can buy


They used to put this engine on a pretty cheap Cub Cadet mower. The decks were trash and you'd be lucky to get 4 seasons out of the deck before it died. The engines were always in good shape with lots of life in them. I always sought out these used junk Cub Cadets with the Kawasaki engine, as you could often get the mowers for free or almost free when people junked them. Swap the engine onto a nice Toro or Snapper deck and good to go for another 20 years of mowing.
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Originally Posted By: super20dan
anything with a kawi fj180 motor. strongest lawnmower engine money can buy


They used to put this engine on a pretty cheap Cub Cadet mower. The decks were trash and you'd be lucky to get 4 seasons out of the deck before it died. The engines were always in good shape with lots of life in them. I always sought out these used junk Cub Cadets with the Kawasaki engine, as you could often get the mowers for free or almost free when people junked them. Swap the engine onto a nice Toro or Snapper deck and good to go for another 20 years of mowing.



Awesome that's what I call proper reclaimed piece of equipment. I would love to do that but haven't found any yet.
Kawasaki's are known for being Japanese made.........Japanese have it in a bag from the gitgo. They are some of the most advanced engineers/developers in the world
 
To the OP, Get a good hat light and mow it on Wednesday evenings after work. I used to hate snow shoveling, lawn mowing, and sawing wood. Once I got some decent OPE,I started enjoying such work.
grin2.gif


Good doesn't necessarily mean new. By the way.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top