we want our oil like molasses around here.

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leroyd92

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^^^^^^^^^ thats what our local bike builder said as he handed me the top end to our 1000cc ironhead sportster motor.

i asked this on here a few days ago, everyone here said to ditch the straight 50 for 20w50. i do have more faith in BITOG with oil alternatives then the traditional old gray hairs we have here. so im leaning towards 2050.

not to mention. the bike will see no abuse for the remainder of its life. dad works a mile from work and our town takes 8 minutes to get anywhere.

so, molasses or modern quality oil ?
 
Show them that thin Amsoil 20w-50!
grin.gif
 
Personally I would do what the builder told me to do, but 20w50 sure should not hurt. Reminds me of my MG. Came from the factory 44 years ago with 20w50 which is still the weight I use, although lots of folks on MG forums said go modern with a 5w30. I stick with what the engine builder said use and it has not failed me yet.
 
Harley recommends straight 50 wt for temps 60f- 80f, and straight 60 wt when the temp is above 80f. Living in AZ, you meet that requirement. And besides both 20/50 and straight 50, are a 50 wt at operating temp. If you will be operating below 60 degrees f, go with the 20/50 wt.,,
 
I have a 96 Harley, 1200 custom. It has always had 20w50 oil from the Harley shop and Harley gearbox oil, never lost an engine and no it does not burn oil and no it does not leak and yes I put MMO in the gas and 4oz of it in the oil, runs great, starts up well, what am I doing wrong?? lol
 
your modern Harley is way nicer to oil than in Iron head sportster.

In AZ use 60. Let it warm a couple of minutes, to get the expansion load on the head studs. Then ride off.

Winter in Az can use 20W50.

Rod
 
Well, for the break in I bought Wal-Mart 2050. I have several start ups and 50 miles of ring seating before I let bitog determine what's best...

The poor thing will never warm up 8 out of 10 times it gets ridden
 
Nothing wrong with a straight grade especially in Arizona.

I really liked Amsoil v-twin straight 60 grade in my harley. One of my favorite oils for my bike,but I hated the cost.

Considering your bike as a whole I'd use a conventional straight grade with short intervals. At start up fuel and combustion gasses blow by the rings,a lot,until the engine is hot then the seal is more positive.
My harley has the oil up to operating temp in 10 minutes at the most,so you must be seriously short tripping if 8 of 10 rides won't achieve operating temp.
I suggest a bicycle if the distance is that short.
 
Iron Head Sportster is a different beast. They need thick oil. They need warmed up a bit before riding unless your first mile is slow speed. The heads get real hot, so can cook the oil. They like the open road, not traffic jams. Treat them nice and there is nothing else like them. Your short trips are not the kind of riding that engine likes. So once in a while treat it to a longer ride. You both should enjoy it. Treat them like a modern bike and you may not like the results.

Rod
 
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Straight 50 viscosity at 104F is 240 CtS and at 212F 20 CtS

Amsoil 20w50 viscosity at 104F is 126 CtS and at 212F 18.1 CtS

Thin is in... thick is out...
 
I cannot seriously believe anybody in the business is still recommending a straight weight oil for an iron head Harley Sportster ridden on the street. Seems strange to me. 20w-50 all the way.
 
Just a thought, has anyone written HD headquarters and ask someone there about the oil to use in old Harleys?? Now I would guess in their archives, they have records on all their mc. It might just be an educated guess they know the answers.
 
Originally Posted By: CourierDriver
Just a thought, has anyone written HD headquarters and ask someone there about the oil to use in old Harleys?? Now I would guess in their archives, they have records on all their mc. It might just be an educated guess they know the answers.



The problem with the old multi grades is that they are light years behind the current ones. For instance back in the 80's many 10w40 engine oils were terrible for sludging and sticking rings. The modern basestocks and viscosity improver of today are so much more advanced and better performing. The old literature may not recommend multi grade oils for this reason...without giving the reason.

a 20w50 at startup is thicker than a straight 50 at operating temp. I think it is more important to get the oil to all the parts of the engine fast when you start it up as this is where most wear tends to occur.
 
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
The problem with the old multi grades is that they are light years behind the current ones. For instance back in the 80's many 10w40 engine oils were terrible for sludging and sticking rings. The modern basestocks and viscosity improver of today are so much more advanced and better performing. The old literature may not recommend multi grade oils for this reason...without giving the reason.


Great points Robenstein, anecdotally, it was the performance of the 10W40 grade that lead to the HTHS minimums being put in the SAE J300 viscosity charts, as it was possible to make a very poorly performing 10W40...and they only gave the 10W40 an HTHS minimum of 2.9, the same as the 30 grades. GM advised against the grade. The 2013 revision put the 0W-10W 40s back at 3.5, where they belonged.

So yes, historically, 10W40 was a bad grade.

http://origin-qps.onstreammedia.com/orig...0EngineOils.htm

Here's a Lubrizol vid of how bad 10W40 used to be if the formulator chose some of the worst path (least cost) options for basestock and additive.
 
Originally Posted By: carock
I cannot seriously believe anybody in the business is still recommending a straight weight oil for an iron head Harley Sportster ridden on the street. Seems strange to me. 20w-50 all the way.


when they said to use straight 50 for break in, i knew they were likely stuck in the oldtimes.

which is why i asked here.

i figure science speaks for itsself
 
Originally Posted By: CourierDriver
O boy, car 54 where rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr you!!!


come out come out wherever you are!
 
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