Volvo B230 knocking after oil change

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contrarian

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Hi All

Just done an oil change and now have quite a pronounced knock under load. For example moving off from standstill at low revs. I can also make it do this by blipping the throttle once and then again just before the engine returns to idle speed.

I seem to remember it making this noise before at various times but never as obvious as it is now. Oil used was the same Shell HX7 10w40 as before. The old stuff that came out had done just over 3k miles and was still relatively clean but just starting to turn brownish. I pre-filled the filter as best I could to minimise the low pressure at startup.

I know these engines can suffer from piston slap but it doesn't sound like that to me. I've tried to pinpoint where the noise originates from and it seems louder at the exhaust side towards the rear of the engine.

I may just run this stuff as a flush for a few hundred miles and dump it for something else. I'm thinking 10w40 magnatec or Mobil Super 2000.

Any advice appreciated

Thanks
 
An oil shouldn't have that much impact on your engine.

It sounds more like pre detonation, piston slap would be obvious on start up.
What else has changed with the vehicle besides the oil change?
Different fuel?
 
Apart from a new air filter, nothing else changed at all. Car had 3/4 tank of 97 octane super unleaded when I changed the oil.
 
Something wrong with the anti drain back valve on the new filter? Perhaps a load of slide got stirred up in the sump? Did you use any new procedure to change the oil such and a vacuum pump dipstick tube, a new fumito drain valve? Dd you prod in the valve cover area with anything which may have dislodged gunk?
 
Originally Posted By: SumpChump
Something wrong with the anti drain back valve on the new filter? Perhaps a load of slide got stirred up in the sump? Did you use any new procedure to change the oil such and a vacuum pump dipstick tube, a new fumito drain valve? Dd you prod in the valve cover area with anything which may have dislodged gunk?


Possibly the filter. It's a Mann w917 from a parts store rather than a genuine Volvo item. However many people say the only difference is the Volvo logo and, having examined them side by side, this seems to be true. The oil pressure light goes out as soon as the engine fires the way it always has.

I just drained the oil out the old fashioned way. I'm not a fan of extraction methods. The engine doesn't seem particularly dirty and only has light varnish around the valvetrain so hopefully there were no large deposits in there to dislodge.

I just don't get it. You would maybe expect this type of thing if you swapped a heavy oil for a thin one but I've used exactly the same oil. Is it possible that I could have got oil from a thinner batch?
 
Originally Posted By: laserred96gt
U pump racing fuel in that thing, Is 97 octane the norm there?


The norm here is 95. I use the primo stuff more for the additives that keep everything clean.
 
Europe uses a different octane rating system than North America. However, there cheap "petrol" is like a 90 octane gas in the states.
 
Maybe a lifter didn't agree? If it has hyd lifters? Use a stethascope to look for the origin of the noise
 
Originally Posted By: hansj3
Maybe a lifter didn't agree? If it has hyd lifters? Use a stethascope to look for the origin of the noise


The lifters on these are bucket and shim. I used my improvised listening device (huge screwdriver). Couldn't really pinpoint it but it seems to originate at the rear of the engine. I will get a proper stethoscope and listen to Cyl No. 4

Thanks
 
those redblocks aren't too picky with oil. Mann filters are good. Is it turbo? does the engine get lugged?

If it's piston slap as most have, it goes away once the engine is warm.

Have you measured oil pressure? Either way I would just run it.
 
Originally Posted By: laserred96gt
U pump racing fuel in that thing, Is 97 octane the norm there?


Different octane rating systems.

In Europe normally 95 RON is the normal unleaded while 98 RON is Super unleaded.

AKI = US
RON = Europe, rest of the world

87 AKI = ~ 92 RON
89 AKI = ~ 94 RON
91 AKI = ~ 96 RON
95 AKI = ~ 100 RON
 
Mine did not develop knock after oil change, but the knock described matches my engines knock. It knocks like he write, and only when reaching temperature. It is a turbo, oil pressure around 3bar at operating temp. So oil pressure is within specs with Haynes Manual..
Also checked for vacuum leaks.. Going mad over this. Suspect main bearings since rod bearings are recently replaced.
 
It does not seem to help putting premium in it, tried with the Unleaded 98 which is the most you can get in Norway.. Also, all other b230 turbos i know of runs perfectly on 95
 
If it sounds like the video, don't worry about it. Sounds like piston slap to me.

My 1990 240 DL wagon has sounded like that forever it seems. Speedometer broke a long time ago, so I can't be exactly sure on the miles, but it should definitely be way north of 400,00 miles. I always used the Mann/w917 if I had one on hand. Cut some of them open, and they are overbuilt for sure just the way I like it.

Hopefully, somebody did not pull a fast one, and put used oil in a container, and then return it to the store, and the store put it back up for sell.
 
Well, Im leaning towards just letting it run its course. Mine is not as pronounced as in the video, but it happens under the same circumstances OPContrarian describes so very well in his original post..
Seeing he's not been on the forum since 2015 I guess we'll never know if he figured it out or just drove with it.

PS. If it was piston slap, the knocking would be louder at cold and decrease as temperature rises. So, if its a mechanical knock my professional opinion are Main crank bearings, which requires an engine pull
frown.gif
 
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