Charging AC

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My Jeep takes 134a freon. Looks like i can buy just the freon, freon plus stop leak and freon with oil. Which one should I use?

Thanks.
 
freon is the trade mark name for R12, which has been banned since early 90s.

R134a is what we used nowadays, and for duPont, it's trade mark name is Suva.

For recharge, use pure R134a only. Do not use those with sealant for it will mess up the shops recovery system, costing them hundreds of dollars + down time to service their system, and they will hate you for that.

Q.
 
Buy plain R134a. Don't buy stop leak products. If you want to find the leak, it's okay to use R134a that contains UV dye, but usually that's for the shop that will repair it since AC isn't a DIY repair thing usually.

Another interesting point is all R134a is the same no matter what brand if it's labeled without any additives in it.

If you have an ollies bargain outlet or big lots they have the best prices.
 
Go to Amazon and check out the reviews, there are lot's of good products out there.

I just did this to a family member's 2002 Accord. ICE cold now!

I used AC Pro refrigerant
 
Originally Posted By: Quest


For recharge, use pure R134a only. Do not use those with sealant for it will mess up the shops recovery system, costing them hundreds of dollars + down time to service their system, and they will hate you for that.

your close. Cost $1300 + a $500 filter to keep it out of my machine. So basically $1800 to repair it after sucking in stop leak
 
Chris,
given that industry thinks 10-20% of Oz vehicles are filled with HC, how do HC refrigerents affect your kit ?
 
Considering how many DIY AC charge kits are sold with stop leak there must be a lot of shops with ruined machines.

I still have about 25 pounds of Freon, R12. I'll be charging up my van within the next week or two with it. It's been about 8 years since it was last done. The old Ford systems with the "O" rings sucked as far as I'm concerned.
 
I was thinking just the plain 134a would be it. Also, isn't the oil+134a used if the AC system is opened up/ replaced?

I do find it odd all the "user friendly" kits already have stop leak in them.. They are around $30-$40 at parts stores.

I plan on buying the 12 oz. bottle as well as something like this. I assume you add more by pressing the fitting that connects to the low pressure fitting on the system? Here
 
About 90% of the OTC product have some kind of leak sealer. Few claim to be "system safe" although do not expound on its meaning. Frankly, I am guessing that current products containing the leak sealers may be safe for the professional machine, otherwise a sane shop owner will not even offer this service.

I do believe that there must have been a time when off the shelf product containing leak sealers were NO-NO. This is purely my conjecture.
 
Obviously if you need R134a you have a leak. Or a nasty ex-wife. The best solution is to have the system repaired. Could be a dried out o-ring or either the low or high pressure connectors.

However many people with a slow leak just add a can of R134a every year. But you can under or overfill the system if you do not know what you are doing and do not have a set of manifold gauges.

Shops fill by quantity of R134a (its listed in a sticker under the hood, so many ounces of R134a), not pressure.

The UV dye is not all that good for finding a leak. Most shops have a $200 (or more) R134a detector tool.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I was thinking just the plain 134a would be it. Also, isn't the oil+134a used if the AC system is opened up/ replaced?

I do find it odd all the "user friendly" kits already have stop leak in them.. They are around $30-$40 at parts stores.

I plan on buying the 12 oz. bottle as well as something like this. I assume you add more by pressing the fitting that connects to the low pressure fitting on the system? Here


Those cheap hose kits are usually garbage. If you want to buy something a bit better I would get one of these sets from Harbor Freight. Use a 20% off coupon when you buy it.
http://www.harborfreight.com/ac-r134a-manifold-gauge-set-60806.html

As mentioned you can usually get the small cans of R134a from big lots for cheaper than anywhere else.
You also need an R134a can piercing valve.

Here are some videos for recharging your AC.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iNsyiFRfueM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lglPJuBXVeE

One tip I use is to dip the can of R134a into a pail of hot water to force the R134a into the system faster. If your system is totally empty you should use a vacuum pump to evacuate all of the moisture in the system.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Considering how many DIY AC charge kits are sold with stop leak there must be a lot of shops with ruined machines.

I still have about 25 pounds of Freon, R12. I'll be charging up my van within the next week or two with it. It's been about 8 years since it was last done. The old Ford systems with the "O" rings sucked as far as I'm concerned.

No one has suggested using the thermometer in the vent. Wouldn't this method yield a better result?
 
Broke down and just bought the cheaper $15 kit. Walmart (dare I say that here?) had bottles of refrigerant on rollback for around $6. I added what appears to be around 9-10 ounces of refrigerant. Idling, the needle stays in the green, but when the compressor engages, it eventually just runs just out of the green.

I assume this means I have to add more?

If my current method doesnt work, Ill invest in a better kit.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Broke down and just bought the cheaper $15 kit. Walmart (dare I say that here?) had bottles of refrigerant on rollback for around $6. I added what appears to be around 9-10 ounces of refrigerant. Idling, the needle stays in the green, but when the compressor engages, it eventually just runs just out of the green.

I assume this means I have to add more?

If my current method doesnt work, Ill invest in a better kit.


You really need both high and low pressure.
 
Originally Posted By: jorton
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Considering how many DIY AC charge kits are sold with stop leak there must be a lot of shops with ruined machines.

I still have about 25 pounds of Freon, R12. I'll be charging up my van within the next week or two with it. It's been about 8 years since it was last done. The old Ford systems with the "O" rings sucked as far as I'm concerned.

No one has suggested using the thermometer in the vent. Wouldn't this method yield a better result?


It will work in a pinch. The best way is to evacuate the system, [the proper way], make sure there are no leaks, and weigh the charge.
 
In my experience the system is to the point where its blowing warm air, it's going to need at least 1 full can of the 12 oz stuff, maybe more for a bigger system.

For smaller systems you may need less than a can but not usually.
 
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