2015 Tacoma, 1,000 miles, Factory Fill
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I was planning on dumping my FF at 1,500 miles. I wont have time to do anything for a few weeks so it will probably have about 3k or so on it before it gets changed.
Originally Posted By: Turk
Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Smart move to rinse out the manufacturing debris.
Right! Mfg. Debris can do no good. Someone tell me what "good" it can do for the engine.....
It can only be "neutral" or "negative".
Not true. New and rebuilt engines need a certain amount of grit properly break in and make everything seat. If there isn't some friction the rings will never seat. So. Yes. It's good and necessary.
Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Smart move to rinse out the manufacturing debris.
Right! Mfg. Debris can do no good. Someone tell me what "good" it can do for the engine.....
It can only be "neutral" or "negative".
Not true. New and rebuilt engines need a certain amount of grit properly break in and make everything seat. If there isn't some friction the rings will never seat. So. Yes. It's good and necessary.
Lubener,
Thank you for your comment. Funny you should mention when the next UOA is done. I am thinking of doing the following oil changes, and performing UOAs at EACH:
2500 miles
5000 miles
10000 miles
20000 miles
and then every 10K miles thereafter.
I know some out there on BITOG are going to have a heart attack at this! But I am doing this as a learning tool. Yes, it's wasteful...But it would be interesting to learn how long it actually takes for wear metals to drift down to normal levels.
I expect to hit the 2500 mark in a couple of weeks, so stay tuned for more UOAs on this vehicle.
Will I be banned from BITOG if I do this?
Thank you for your comment. Funny you should mention when the next UOA is done. I am thinking of doing the following oil changes, and performing UOAs at EACH:
2500 miles
5000 miles
10000 miles
20000 miles
and then every 10K miles thereafter.
I know some out there on BITOG are going to have a heart attack at this! But I am doing this as a learning tool. Yes, it's wasteful...But it would be interesting to learn how long it actually takes for wear metals to drift down to normal levels.
I expect to hit the 2500 mark in a couple of weeks, so stay tuned for more UOAs on this vehicle.
Will I be banned from BITOG if I do this?
I have always changed the FF at under 1000 miles, sometimes way under, because iron and other hard particles able to get through a full flow oil filter are large enough and hard enough to scratch the softer bearings and pistons. That's it. Asking for proof of an engine failing early without such extra attention is like asking for proof of engine failure using a torn oil filter. I still take the safer route as there is never ever going to be that proof with all the other variables along the way.
Originally Posted By: Turk
Yep, metal flakes circulating around in the oil don't "need" to be removed early for an engine to last.
But, we can boil it down to only 3 things that can happen from metal flakes circulating around longer in the oil:
1) Good happens (good effect).
2) Nothing happens (no effect).
3) Bad happens (bad effect).
Essentially nothing good can happen from it, so this is why some choose to get the flakes out earlier.
Am I wrong?
What if this small grit that gets past the oil filter is beneficial to the rings seating properly? Than your entire thought process goes out the door.
Yep, metal flakes circulating around in the oil don't "need" to be removed early for an engine to last.
But, we can boil it down to only 3 things that can happen from metal flakes circulating around longer in the oil:
1) Good happens (good effect).
2) Nothing happens (no effect).
3) Bad happens (bad effect).
Essentially nothing good can happen from it, so this is why some choose to get the flakes out earlier.
Am I wrong?
What if this small grit that gets past the oil filter is beneficial to the rings seating properly? Than your entire thought process goes out the door.
Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Most assume automotive engineers are so great. I don't.
I guess that ToadU has never owned a vehicle that had issues, like major oil consumption, sludging, DI fuel dilution, or other defect that somehow was overlooked by engineers.
Pretty sad that the oil sheared deeply into 20 grade territory. I'd expect a better lowest bid oil from Toyota for factory fill. If it calls for 5w30 conventional, why give it an oil that surrenders so quickly into a 20 grade? Or, maybe you should run that factory fill conventional for 7500 miles to give it time to oxidize and sludge back up to a 30 grade?
Smart move to rinse out the manufacturing debris. Tacoma is a great vehicle and hope that it serves you well.
You people need to remember that auto companies are not run by engineers. They are run by accountants who are watching the bottom dollar. My bet is the cheapest lowest bid oil is put in at the factory. Look at all the recalls and problems the car makers have due to cheaper parts, designs and trying to save a buck or cut corners. It almost killed the US car cos. and they are still doing it.
Most assume automotive engineers are so great. I don't.
I guess that ToadU has never owned a vehicle that had issues, like major oil consumption, sludging, DI fuel dilution, or other defect that somehow was overlooked by engineers.
Pretty sad that the oil sheared deeply into 20 grade territory. I'd expect a better lowest bid oil from Toyota for factory fill. If it calls for 5w30 conventional, why give it an oil that surrenders so quickly into a 20 grade? Or, maybe you should run that factory fill conventional for 7500 miles to give it time to oxidize and sludge back up to a 30 grade?
Smart move to rinse out the manufacturing debris. Tacoma is a great vehicle and hope that it serves you well.
You people need to remember that auto companies are not run by engineers. They are run by accountants who are watching the bottom dollar. My bet is the cheapest lowest bid oil is put in at the factory. Look at all the recalls and problems the car makers have due to cheaper parts, designs and trying to save a buck or cut corners. It almost killed the US car cos. and they are still doing it.
Originally Posted By: ToadU
I just think it's a mistake not to follow the directions that came with a very expensive and highly engineered product.
Many manufacturers are now saying to never change the automatic transmission fluid as the fluids are "lifetime" fills. Of course, that all depends on your expectations for how long a transmission should last!
Blindly following the manual is not always the wisest move.
I just think it's a mistake not to follow the directions that came with a very expensive and highly engineered product.
Many manufacturers are now saying to never change the automatic transmission fluid as the fluids are "lifetime" fills. Of course, that all depends on your expectations for how long a transmission should last!
Blindly following the manual is not always the wisest move.
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