brakes for 2013 Hyundai Elantra

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Hi guys. I need some input on brakes for a 2013 Hyundai Elantra Limited. My girlfriend had a tire replaced today (gouge in sidewall, replaced under warranty) and the shop told her front and rear pads and rotors needed to be done and quoted her $684 + tax which is absurd. The car has 56K miles on it. Her neighbor is a mechanic and took a look and agreed that they need to be done. (But agreed that their quote was ridiculous.)

I've used Wagner ThermoQuiet pads on a couple of vehicles in the past and was very happy with them. I can get front+rear on Amazon for $70. Wearever rotors from AAP or Duralast from AZ will be about $80. I think that is suitable and will service the vehicle well.

With that said, I've never owned a Hyundai. Those of you with Hyundai knowledge, is there something else that I really should use? Anything about the job I should know going into it?

As always, thanks for the input!
 
How much are the pads from the parts department at Hyundai? The elantra has pretty good brakes. Mine are good enough that i'd use oem if its cost effective.
 
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There is currently a rebate on the ThermoQuiets of $15 per axle, good on purchases made through 5/31. I just got a set myself.

And FWIW, I don't think the quote she received is absurd. I think it's about what I would expect to pay a shop to do that job. The dealer is going to probably get a grand for the same thing.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
How much are the pads from the parts department at Hyundai? The elantra has pretty good brakes. Mine are good enough that i'd use oem if its cost effective.


Wow i just saw teh hyundai pads on amazon for $160. I'd go with thermoquiets before i'd pay that.
 
Thermoquiet's shim design isn't the greatest - they do not match OE and have a tendency to cause noise problems.

I would use the dealer pads or Akebono. Centric Posi-Quiet 105 series is a good value option as well. Try to re-use the OE shim kit if possible.

For rotors I use Centric 120 or 125 series. Clean the hub flange surface real well and make sure the runout does not exceed 0.002".

$684 doesn't sound bad at all if they're doing the job properly. Friend's garage is getting $200/axle for labor only and I already feel that's on the low side. Doing the job properly (checking runout and indexing rotors if-needed, cleaning the hub flange and brackets) can take 2-2.5 hr per axle.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3722378/A_Critic-Style_Brake_Job
 
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A brake job with pads and rotors, front and rear, for that vehicle using OEM equipment would be $575 for parts alone. The shop has the right to make money for labor, and book hours are 2.8 hours flat rate. Her quote was very reasonable.
A word to the wise,it is ridiculous to expect a repair shop to try to match what you can do the job for by yourself.
I had a customer this week that balked at $750 for pads and rotors on their Tucson because he could by cheap [censored] duralast stuff for $300 and do it himself. Duh! He brought it to the dealer to save time and effort, then declined the work. He wasted my time, my technician's time, and created a longer wait for my other customers. Needless to say, he did pay for that time. A brake inspection to tell him what he already knew, $39.95. A rear wiper blade $15. After tax, $59.
 
Although 2013 is fairly new, thorougly inspect the guides are still gliding, and be prepared to strip/clean and regrease them. Remove the surface rust from the carrier, sanding paper works good, files get saturated with rust/brakedust easily.

Check the handbrake lever going into the drum isn't stuck by rust, happens a lot.

Handbrake cables aren't reliable either.

The discs shouldn't need replacing so early, pads are usually due a fair bit more early.
 
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
Although 2013 is fairly new, thorougly inspect the guides are still gliding, and be prepared to strip/clean and regrease them. Remove the surface rust from the carrier, sanding paper works good, files get saturated with rust/brakedust easily.



If you mean the caliper pins - they should not be sanded or filed. They have a plated finish which should not be removed. Anything more than a brass brush to clean is too much.

If pins are scored, rusted, or pitted, they should be replaced....... not costly at all. As always, they should have a good treatment of caliper grease.
 
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Go online get something like Akebono, if you want something that will last like OEM, no dust etc.
I do not think you want anything performance so I will not suggest that.
Those brakes in AZ and AAP I would not touch with the stick.
 
Originally Posted By: user52165
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
Although 2013 is fairly new, thorougly inspect the guides are still gliding, and be prepared to strip/clean and regrease them. Remove the surface rust from the carrier, sanding paper works good, files get saturated with rust/brakedust easily.



If you mean the caliper pins - they should not be sanded or filed. They have a plated finish which should not be removed. Anything more than a brass brush to clean is too much.

If pins are scored, rusted, or pitted, they should be replaced....... not costly at all. As always, they should have a good treatment of caliper grease.


no, I mean the carrier for the pads are very prone to rusting. In my whole life I never had to do extensive brake overhauls as much aswhen I started working on hyundais.
 
yes, but the rust is under the shims, pushing them up and locking the brake pads.

actually, the pads themselves also rust where they touch the shims, adding to the problem.
 
OP Update: I did the job using Wager TheroQuiet pads which cost $67 on Amazon and had a $30 rebate (which I already received). Picked up rotors at O'Reilly. Complete cost was around $200.

I couldn't believe how bad the old pads and rotors were for a 2013 with 56K miles on it. Unfortunately the vehicle is parked outside year-round on a gravel driveway and I think the resulting rust really took a toll on things.
 
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