1997 Toyota Avalon (1MF-ZE) oil recommendation

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You have received a lot of good advice here; I'll add some thoughts. I have an 02 ES300 with the VVT-i version of this engine and have done a lot of work on it. It's at 240k and runs like a proverbial swiss watch.

As mentioned, the sludge issue on these is over-blown; it takes real neglect to get there.

a) Easily available/excellent quality/reasonable cost oil filters are in my mind either 1) Denso from the dealership (affordable, very high quality) or from RockAuto when you buy other parts, or 2) Wix branded or Napa Gold (same filter). Wix is in many major auto chains, Napa's are everywhere. Both filters are reasonably priced, very high quality, and good for 6 or 7.5k mile OCI's with quality synthetic oil.

b) I run ours on 5w-30 Mobil 1 High Mileage, from Wal-Mart cheap as mentioned. It LOVES it. Smooth, better power, slight MPG boost. I am now running 7.5k OCI's and it consumes about 8-12 ozs of oil in that period, after 240k miles on the engine. Remarkable.

c) The PCU will thrive on higher octane gas or even better yet, REAL gas (E0) if you can get it. Big MPG boost. I once splurged on a tank of 93 octane E0 and it was like a rocketship (relatively speaking). We got 30mpg with two adults, two kids, a trunk full of luggage and doing 80 mph on the interstate. This was with the next gen 5 speed tranny and VVT-I, but yours will benefit to the same degree.

d) A quality synthetic ATF in your PS system and transmission will make them last forever. MaxLife, Mag 1 synthetic, and others are great choices. Drop about 8 ozs. of SeaFoam in the AT a few days before the fluid swap to clean up the solenoids and valve bodies. Works great.

e) MAF Sensor, IACV, and PCV valve as mentioned.

f) there is a very good valve gasket DIY for this engine on Clublexus. com from a New Zealand member. I think his ID there is like ES300NZ. I'll try to find a link for you. When you do the valve covers, be sure to put in new 100k iridium plugs at the same time; you cannot access the back bank plugs w/o all that intake system off. I would not change the gaskets unless you find oil loss is noticeable or it is dripping. It is a PITA and if it's just a small weep, live with it until you need to change plugs or are doing the timing belt.

g) Don't neglect brake service; jack up each axle and spin each wheel by hand to make sure it moves freely without pins or pads binding. Try to rock it up/down and left/right to detect bad bearings. Then flush the brake fluid and get clean fluid in there and flush it every few years.

h) re: your starting issue. It's late here and I'm tired and not mentally in diagnostic mode. Make a post at Toyotanation.com in the avalon or the 4 gen Camry forum (same system, more eyeballs) and we'll work the problem for you.

i) when it comes time for suspension, the answer is KYB shocks and re-using OE springs and mounts (unless clearly failing). No Quick struts and no aftermarket mounts; unacceptably high failure rate with aftermarket strut mounts.

ClubLexus.com and toyotanation.com have a tremendous support group for owners. Keep in mind your drivetrain was not only in Avalons but in ES300s, Camrys, and the engine in RX and other Toyota crossovers, etc. LOTS of knowledge and support out there.
 
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If your 1MZ-FE is pre-VVT-i (like I am guessing it is) then you can change the rear plugs without removing the intake plenum. In fact, you can change them without removing the windshield wipers/cowling, especially if you have done it once before and know what you are doing. In those engines there are no coils on the back plugs and you can easily maneuver the plugs in and out.

Pulling the front valve cover is easy and will probably tell you all you need to know about oil gelling or sludging. Pulling the back cover will tell you more if you are going after a leaking cover gasket.

This was my 1MZ-FE front bank at 155,000 miles:

b3388ab27613be884c1e3e60b87b98dd.jpeg


At 232,000 miles (which I can't find pictures at the moment) it looked similar with only a bit more varnish.

The back bank at 299,000 miles looked like this:

IMG_1182.jpg

IMG_1181.jpg


and the underside of the back cover:

IMG_1183.jpg


This engine has seen a steady diet of good quality (M1) synthetic oil changed out at an average interval of just around 7,000 miles. I replaced the rear cover at that point with the new upgraded one which uses the metal screw-in PCV valve:

IMG_1184.jpg


The back bank on that engine gets much hotter than the front, at least in the Sienna version. I've had the exhaust off at various times to facilitate other maintenance and when you compare the mating flanges of both the exhaust manifold and the pipe, the rear one has much more heat damage and pitting than does the front. So that is why I said that if you are going to see a problem you are probably going to see it in the back bank.
 
Mobil 1 HM as per MFR specs on viscosity and oil change interval. Denso or Toyota OEM filter is highly recommended. As others posted, fuel injector cleaner like Red Line and transmission fluid/filter replacement. All these and your car will be like new!
 
Hi y'all!

And thanks again to everyone for the input!

Many said I should do an ATF change and I couldn't remember off the top of my head when it had been last done, so I looked at the service records and found out that the ATF was flushed and changed at the last oil change, 4k miles ago (in September)! However the fluid is not a big brand name: BG Premium ATF. Here's one link I found about it:
http://www.will-son.com/docs/PN_313.pdf
But over here I couldn't find a mention of "premium":
https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/transmission/
Anyway, it's supposed to be good for 30k miles, so I guess I'll go with that and not worry about ATF for the next 26k miles.

Lots of good info, Oro_O, thanks a lot!. With respect to the warm start issue, I don't seem to be alone. Posted in this Toyotanation Avalon thread:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/154-1s...arm-engine.html

I will search Camry threads there later tonight.

kschachn, thanks for the info (like the back bank being more problem-prone) and pics.

anndel, thank you too! I've pretty much decided to go with Mobil 1 HM now, 10W30 for this summer and then 5W30 for the next OCI (winter).

Thanks everyone for the filter suggestions. Several filter have got "upvotes" by several posters, so I guess I will just go with whichever one of those I happen to find easiest.

Thanks again!
 
Just came back from my friendly mechanic. When I explained the warm start-up problem, he asked what my idle RPMs were and based on my answer guessed that my problem might be carbon build-up on the intake valves and suggested that I put Techron into my next few tanks of fuel. This was before I had even mentioned that I had just bought Techron. So running a few tanks now with Techron and seeing if that helps.
 
Originally Posted By: HuhOil

Many said I should do an ATF change and I couldn't remember off the top of my head when it had been last done, so I looked at the service records and found out that the ATF was flushed and changed at the last oil change, 4k miles ago (in September)! However the fluid is not a big brand name: BG Premium ATF. Here's one link I found about it:
http://www.will-son.com/docs/PN_313.pdf
But over here I couldn't find a mention of "premium":
https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/transmission/
Anyway, it's supposed to be good for 30k miles, so I guess I'll go with that and not worry about ATF for the next 26k miles.

BG makes very good oils, additives, and transmission fluids. As long as they meet your car's transmission fluid specification, you have nothing to worry about.

I think the 1997 Toyota Avalon uses Dexron III, that is what my dad's 1997 Lexus ES300 used. It is a common specification and most modern transmission fluids meet that specification.
 
I wouldn't worry too much about the oil - use a good name-brand full synthetic every 5k and you'll be fine.

The valve covers are a pretty unpleasant job on the 1MZ. I did one of these recently for the first time with someone and it took us almost 7 hours.
 
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