Redline Synthetic Oil Fans?

[OneEyeJack]

Originally Posted By: Kuato
carock, thanks for your experience.

OneEyeJack, what OCI do you use? (You may have put it in another thread but if so I missed it)


Based on UOA's I'm doing 10K with a NAPA Gold 1392 oil filter.

And I just received another message that Red Line is only good for track days. I think if they saw all the parts while I was doing the overhaul they might not think so. I replaced all the bearings just because I had the engine apart and had the new ones in the kit. The crank showed absolutely no wear. When you wiped your finger across the bottom of the oil pan there was no residue after sitting on the work bench a couple of days, just a light coating of oil that needed to be removed with solvent and a rag. There was no hint of sludge, anywhere.

 

[donnyj08]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: oldhp
Really like their 75W110 gear oil.


I wonder how Redline 75W110 compares to Amsoil Severe Gear 75W110?


Im curious as well. SVG is outstanding! I like Synpower and Amsoil Gear oils better than any others.

 

[Kuato]

Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Originally Posted By: Kuato
carock, thanks for your experience.

OneEyeJack, what OCI do you use? (You may have put it in another thread but if so I missed it)


Based on UOA's I'm doing 10K with a NAPA Gold 1392 oil filter.

And I just received another message that Red Line is only good for track days. I think if they saw all the parts while I was doing the overhaul they might not think so. I replaced all the bearings just because I had the engine apart and had the new ones in the kit. The crank showed absolutely no wear. When you wiped your finger across the bottom of the oil pan there was no residue after sitting on the work bench a couple of days, just a light coating of oil that needed to be removed with solvent and a rag. There was no hint of sludge, anywhere.





Thanks.

 

[Olas]

I love their gear oils, IME they perform even better than Schaeffers. The injector cleaner is proven potent stuff. I run the engine oils, not sure how much 'better' they are but they help me sleep at night.
Next on the list is their dot4 brake fluid

 

[edvanp]

I ran RL in my Ridgeline this past winter and I'm about to send a sample off for a UOA. I'm currently switching my Transmission fluid over to RL D4, 3 quarts at a time. I've done 2 so far and the transmission does shift better than it did with the Honda DW-1. My personal opinion is any off the shelf syn. oil is fine for 90% of the cars on the road, including mine. I buy whatever I can get on sale. I think RL stands out with their gearlube and transmission fluid. I'll post the UOA on my recent run of RL oil when I receive the results.

 

[wi11iam]

like their gear oil / MTF but never tried their motor oil. From what I see around here, their motor oils look decent though.

 

[panthermike]

I love RL but don't use it exclusively due to price.

 

[DR1]

Is royal purple hps equal to redline in regards to film strength,under heavy loads,and in hot weather conditions?

 

[OneEyeJack]

Originally Posted By: panthermike
I love RL but don't use it exclusively due to price.


How much more does it cost than what you're currently using for one oil change?

My recant Honda rebuild showed little wear anywhere and no sludge at 420K miles and then the rebuild was only done because the oil rings started letting too much oil by and it failed smog.

Red Line is a good choice if you keep cars a long time or get involved in severe service. Most detractors of the product have never used it as reflected in the PM's I receive telling me it's no good for extended intervals and will damage my engine(s). Although I'm only doing 10K's now several people at work are doing 15-25K intervals with good UOA's, usually with a filter swap half way through.

It appears that UOA's are useful but only that. It's really difficult to know how well an oil really does because most people trade cars long before the engine wears out. And often when an engine does wear out or fails, it's because of neglect, not just normal wear and tear.

 

[BobsArmory]

Just looked at the Red Line 0w-30 and it shows a pour point of -76F. That's pretty amazing!

 

[mkosem]

Yes, big fan.

 

[mongo161]

Well, I ran a blended mix of 4 quarts of GC, 0w30 and 2 quarts of Redline Racing 5wt for my winter run. After 8k miles of stop and go, sub-freezing weather, and some long distance highway trips to Florida I was impressed. This blended mix will be my winter mix in my 97 Toyota 4Runner, SR5. PAO and POE blended mix ran fine.

I'm now running Formula Shell 5w-30, conventional, API-SM and will be changing it out at 6k miles very soon.

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
No

Spotty availability, heavy-handed price fixing, their oil just doesn't seem to be worth the price. M1, Edge, Lubro Moly, Motul, etc are probably better than most Redline oils.


Some, maybe even most, of the Motul oils are actually MORE costly than Red Line, and with the exception of Sino Mart 5 qt. jugs, and the chain stores' sales specials, the others are not all that much less costly.

 

[Revving2Redline]

Used RL 5w30 in my hyundai accent 2012 GDi and it ran great. Best oil ever but not cost effective and went pennzoil ultra platinum instead.

 

[NYSteve]

My dad has been using Red Line since the mid-80s and have never had any oil issues. Between him and I, we have used it on a Mazdas, Toyotas, Volvos, Chevys and dirt bikes.

Currently I am using their diff oil in my GX470 and will use their 0w-30 in my next oil change, mainly based on this UOA, which blows away the 'Red Line is not a long drain oil' myth. I'll be in Pennsylvania by then and will run it year-round, 10k miles with no concerns.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...14_#Post3544290

 

[Jetronic]

Originally Posted By: carock


We did a thorough engineering test, and I mean the factory could not have done a better job, of the temperature effects of using Redline oil in a late doghouse style air cooled VW. The oil temps were reduced around 15 degrees F and metal temps were down the same amount compared to Valvoline 10w-30.



What's the science behind the oil temperature drops? Ester synthetics are usually higher molecular weight than minerals, so the heat soak might be higher?

 

[bulwnkl]

Originally Posted By: edvanp
I ran RL in my Ridgeline this past winter and I'm about to send a sample off for a UOA. I'm currently switching my Transmission fluid over to RL D4, 3 quarts at a time. I've done 2 so far and the transmission does shift better than it did with the Honda DW-1. My personal opinion is any off the shelf syn. oil is fine for 90% of the cars on the road, including mine. I buy whatever I can get on sale. I think RL stands out with their gearlube and transmission fluid. I'll post the UOA on my recent run of RL oil when I receive the results.


Have you tried their D6? It's the appropriate viscosity to replace DW-1. I made a run of D6 in my Ridge.it works well. So does DW-1, though, at least for short drains and highway driving.