15w40 or 20w50 for Ford Pinto Engine With LPG
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Originally Posted By: hpb
I wonder why they dropped it? Pressure from oil companies perhaps?
A major change in economic policy (Rogernomics) with deregulation and lifting of protection and tariffs. Deregulation of the oil companies gave them power over energy.
I wonder why they dropped it? Pressure from oil companies perhaps?
A major change in economic policy (Rogernomics) with deregulation and lifting of protection and tariffs. Deregulation of the oil companies gave them power over energy.
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Originally Posted By: Dogan
Please correct me if im wrong, im trying to learn
Multi point injection modern engines spray gas on intake valves and provide coolant and lubrication (negliable or not)
MPFI washes the valves with the fuel mist to keep them clean.
Originally Posted By: Dogan
But old carburetor engines, jets send gas by venturi through manifold so no direct contact with valves and lack of Liquid fuel coolant and lubrication
The gasoline was suspended in the air flowing through the manifold and washes the valves in the same manner as the MPFI engines did.
Originally Posted By: Dogan
When my car is new, there is leaded fuel and still have mid of 90's
Lead in gas provide protection for valves but with unleaded,no
Lead provided some lubrication and protected against valve seat erosion as non-hardened seats were used. Modern valves are lubricated through the stem seal area (as were the old ones in days of yore, though perhaps not as well) but they now employ hardened seats that don't need the lead. Engines rebuilt to run on unleaded have the heads upgraded with hardened seats.
Originally Posted By: Dogan
I have 2 scenarios
-LPG or unleaded fuel wont harm my valves because no direct contact with valves
-both fuel wil harm my valves because lack of lead which provide protection my valves
And oil choice
Vr1 or Max life ?
If your engine doesn't have hardened seats, it is going to suffer seat erosion either way, whether you use gasoline or LPG. That is, unless you use gasoline with a lead substitute.
Please correct me if im wrong, im trying to learn
Multi point injection modern engines spray gas on intake valves and provide coolant and lubrication (negliable or not)
MPFI washes the valves with the fuel mist to keep them clean.
Originally Posted By: Dogan
But old carburetor engines, jets send gas by venturi through manifold so no direct contact with valves and lack of Liquid fuel coolant and lubrication
The gasoline was suspended in the air flowing through the manifold and washes the valves in the same manner as the MPFI engines did.
Originally Posted By: Dogan
When my car is new, there is leaded fuel and still have mid of 90's
Lead in gas provide protection for valves but with unleaded,no
Lead provided some lubrication and protected against valve seat erosion as non-hardened seats were used. Modern valves are lubricated through the stem seal area (as were the old ones in days of yore, though perhaps not as well) but they now employ hardened seats that don't need the lead. Engines rebuilt to run on unleaded have the heads upgraded with hardened seats.
Originally Posted By: Dogan
I have 2 scenarios
-LPG or unleaded fuel wont harm my valves because no direct contact with valves
-both fuel wil harm my valves because lack of lead which provide protection my valves
And oil choice
Vr1 or Max life ?
If your engine doesn't have hardened seats, it is going to suffer seat erosion either way, whether you use gasoline or LPG. That is, unless you use gasoline with a lead substitute.
Hi Dogan,
There are dedicated motor oils for LPG converted cars. Selenia has one, I'm sure there's other brands available. As other mentioned LPG is,very easy on oil since it burns much cleaner than petrol. As you said before, yes LPG does burn hotter so a proper setup is important, especially because it's car designed for leaded fuel. Do you have valve flash lube installed, and is it a system with separate injectors or older system with flange?
There are dedicated motor oils for LPG converted cars. Selenia has one, I'm sure there's other brands available. As other mentioned LPG is,very easy on oil since it burns much cleaner than petrol. As you said before, yes LPG does burn hotter so a proper setup is important, especially because it's car designed for leaded fuel. Do you have valve flash lube installed, and is it a system with separate injectors or older system with flange?
i bought my car already LPG converted and mostly sure no lubrication or hardened valves fitted.
so my valves already gets harm at every mile i did right ?
now i have monil 10w60 motorsport formula ( i will buy extended life but i coulnt find)
changed 6 months ago maybe 2000km driven but oil stick is dry after 10 minutes close engine
serious oil burning problem i have, if every 1000km 1 lt burning is normal.
i have many questions to ask i will ask step by step
i'm tired of thinking about it.
- is maxlife things really work ?
should i buy a quality 0w40 ( good for engine performance, MPG and cold start protection)
or thicker oil which has old engine addtives.
and please can you check valvoline maxlife series
which grade is good for me
when i check 5w40 and 10w40 chosen best maxlife oil but 15w40 doesnt have this sign.
maxlife 10w40 has btter formula than 15w40 ?
-is valvoline good choice ?
is it has enough additives to do what it says ?
-should i use MOTORSILK ?
i read many comments, like its miracle
i can not believe so many positive reviews but in Turkish or other countries users like it to much
should i try after change oil and filter or just leave oil alone ?
thank you all
so my valves already gets harm at every mile i did right ?
now i have monil 10w60 motorsport formula ( i will buy extended life but i coulnt find)
changed 6 months ago maybe 2000km driven but oil stick is dry after 10 minutes close engine
serious oil burning problem i have, if every 1000km 1 lt burning is normal.
i have many questions to ask i will ask step by step
i'm tired of thinking about it.
- is maxlife things really work ?
should i buy a quality 0w40 ( good for engine performance, MPG and cold start protection)
or thicker oil which has old engine addtives.
and please can you check valvoline maxlife series
which grade is good for me
when i check 5w40 and 10w40 chosen best maxlife oil but 15w40 doesnt have this sign.
maxlife 10w40 has btter formula than 15w40 ?
-is valvoline good choice ?
is it has enough additives to do what it says ?
-should i use MOTORSILK ?
i read many comments, like its miracle
i can not believe so many positive reviews but in Turkish or other countries users like it to much
should i try after change oil and filter or just leave oil alone ?
thank you all
Maxlife 10w40 is good oil, and it should reduce your oil consumption, but don't expect miracles. This grade would work all year in your climate.
I have no idea about Motorsilk, I presume it's some sort of oil additive?
About your LPG, you should be OK without valve lube, just drive it easy. Make sure you service your LPG system regularly, running lean can get you trouble.
I have no idea about Motorsilk, I presume it's some sort of oil additive?
About your LPG, you should be OK without valve lube, just drive it easy. Make sure you service your LPG system regularly, running lean can get you trouble.
I have used these on LPG vehciles before...quite popular in Oz on older vehicles without hardened seats.
http://www.flashlube.com/en/products/electronic-valve-saver-kit-series-2.html
http://www.flashlube.com/en/products/electronic-valve-saver-kit-series-2.html
Max life 10w40 better than 15w40 i think
But my Engine burnt 10w60 mobil1 (and this oil has no additives prevent Leaking or burning)
10w cold grade still bad choice for me ?
Valvoline Vr1 20w50, according to website this oil produces hp
And thats what i need, because sometimes i can feel loss of performance
Of course i wont add 10 horses but hope for a few
But my Engine burnt 10w60 mobil1 (and this oil has no additives prevent Leaking or burning)
10w cold grade still bad choice for me ?
Valvoline Vr1 20w50, according to website this oil produces hp
And thats what i need, because sometimes i can feel loss of performance
Of course i wont add 10 horses but hope for a few
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Originally Posted By: Dogan
Max life 10w40 better than 15w40 i think
But my Engine burnt 10w60 mobil1 (and this oil has no additives prevent Leaking or burning)
10w cold grade still bad choice for me ?
Valvoline Vr1 20w50, according to website this oil produces hp
And thats what i need, because sometimes i can feel loss of performance
Of course i wont add 10 horses but hope for a few
No oil "produces" HP. Perhaps their marketing is saying it will "free up" some HP but I highly doubt you are going to experience that.
Max life 10w40 better than 15w40 i think
But my Engine burnt 10w60 mobil1 (and this oil has no additives prevent Leaking or burning)
10w cold grade still bad choice for me ?
Valvoline Vr1 20w50, according to website this oil produces hp
And thats what i need, because sometimes i can feel loss of performance
Of course i wont add 10 horses but hope for a few
No oil "produces" HP. Perhaps their marketing is saying it will "free up" some HP but I highly doubt you are going to experience that.
Probably i will buy Max life 10-40
and last question.
Anyone used and see a benefit from oil or motor additives
Like 444, double up, motorsilk etc.
As i asked above
Motorsilk is not oil add. Its metal additive
Turkey is rich with boron reserves but no technology to process it.
So Founder is Turkish but made in USA, to make boron micro sized to fill Engine straches and improve cyclinder pressure.
Most users say its a miracle
Can you recommend boron or other additives
and last question.
Anyone used and see a benefit from oil or motor additives
Like 444, double up, motorsilk etc.
As i asked above
Motorsilk is not oil add. Its metal additive
Turkey is rich with boron reserves but no technology to process it.
So Founder is Turkish but made in USA, to make boron micro sized to fill Engine straches and improve cyclinder pressure.
Most users say its a miracle
Can you recommend boron or other additives
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