ST 20w-50 - The Miracle Cure?

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fbergski

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Don't post very often but here is some information in my quest to reduce oil consumption in my 02 Suzuki Aerio with 173K. Currently my eldest daughter is driving it, started using oil about 100K miles ago. Normally about 3/4 to 1 quart every 1000 miles. Not too happy with it but it passed California smog with no issues so I just keep adding as required.

Switched to Mobil 5w-30 and slowed to 3/4 quart per 1K, helped a little. I know thicker oils don't necessary reduce oil consumption but I figure I'd try some ST 20w-50 just for the heck of it.

Well after 3K it's only used about 3/4 of a quart of oil, I even checked the oil twice this week just to make sure I read the dipstick correctly.

Well that's the story, hope it helps
 
THANK YOU SIR!

It's nice to hear a positive story about thick oil for a change.
Most of the time all we get on here is 0W-20 this and 0W-20
that. And then there's the threads about follow your owner's
manual or they will void your warranty threads. Gag me with
a spoon!
cry.gif
 
I can not criticize 20-50. I am useing some "almost free" 20-50 right now and my car has not even noticed it.

Of course I advocate common sense. 20-50 definitely should not be used in northern USA or Canada in winter time. In a TX summer, its fine.
 
You got it right.
If you have a oil consumption issue, first thing is to get rid of the synthetic and go back to conventional, if it continues (and you know you do not want to pump money into the car) go to a higher viscosity in conventional oil. In most cases the conventional is a more robust in viscosity and why it helps.
Glad it worked for and thanks for posting it. Im about to do the same in my college age daughters car, I want to make it last just one more year of school, she is about the same mileage. Not really using much oil though but if Im not around to check it, I do get concerned it may get to low after 4 or 5 months. Maybe a quart every 4 or 5 K. 2000 Grand Am V6, I think getting close to 180k miles.
 
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IMHO, if you've already got sloppy/worn guides, bearings, seals, rings, etc. (the cause of oil consumption/loss)-the hit from using 20W50 is a lot less. In the day I used 20W50 in almost everything I ran (all old mostly worn out gas engines)-as long as it didn't get below 0F I was fine.
 
No she doesn't track mileage and with the way she drives it doesn't matter. I meant Mobi HM 5w30 also. We bought the car new and I want to use it to drive to work after she buys another car this fall. She said she's tired of driving Mom's old car.

My only area of concern is the timing chains on this engine. I'm not too sure how long they will last. Engine has to be pulled to change them so I'm not looking forward to that.

I just hope that by using ST 20w-50 the trend will continue and she burns less oil.
 
20-50 dino is OK in an engine that has mechanical problems, as it may not be around long anyway.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
If it passed CA emissions, it doesn't qualify for mechanical problems. I would use the M1 HM 10w40.


That's where I was heading too. Jumping 2 grades makes sense if it's toast and he doesn't care anymore and 3/4 quart per thousand miles really isn't that bad.
And going too thick may even increase oil consumption though I can't say why. I was going to suggest m1 0w-40 for 10000 and half a can liqui-moly motor oil saver every 5000 just to boost tbn,improve seal condition. It's got a ton on boron which seems to serve as an anti-oxidant,dispersant and if I'm not mistaken I thought I saw mola say it compliments certain anti-wear agents and friction modifiers which create a synergy improving more than the sum of its parts,meaning less expensive add packs may become more effective.
Im not 100%?sure on that so please mola if that isn't what you said then please correct me,or if someone else remembers that thread and post.
Since your in Cali you could realistically run a cheap hdeo year round. It's a bit thicker on start up so it would hold an oil film longer when cold started til the oil was hot enough for the add pack to turn on.
I guess you've got options as to which philosophy to go with. Cheap conventional,short intervals or good syn for longer intervals.
 
Try STP engine treatment,It comes out like maple syrup. I posted once about how i used two quarts of this and two quarts of 20-50 in my Datsun and had no problems. It stopped the smoking and slowed the oil consumption.
 
Originally Posted By: ron17571
Try STP engine treatment,It comes out like maple syrup. I posted once about how i used two quarts of this and two quarts of 20-50 in my Datsun and had no problems. It stopped the smoking and slowed the oil consumption.
Nooooo...STP is like refrigerated molasses. It's clean sludge that turns to dirty sludge, and that's about it. Don't put this junk in your engine, or your enemies engine. Using a properly formulated oil on the thicker side is the way to go. Forget these junk additives on the market.
 
Well, you've found a reasonable solution to a problem.
I would probably have tried Maxlife or PHM 10W-40 before going to the twenny fiddy, but the thick stuff seems to have really helped.
In your climate, there should be no issues in using this grade either.
The OM of my old BMW recommends 20W-50 down to 14F, well below anything you'll see in Socal.
 
Glad to hear it worked for you. I still buy 20W-50 often. I'm trying QSHM 10W-40 at the moment, and so far consumption has decreased. I'm going to use it up (I have 26 or 27 quarts to use) and see how consumption does. If it gets into manageable range, I'll stick with it. If not, 20W-50.
 
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In the 528e I use 20w50 per the manual. Come winter, I add a pint of MMO and keep driving until it goes at least 5 KI miles.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Wonder how well M1 15W50 would work in a car that strictly specs 20W50?


It worked really well in my old BMW for which a 20W-50 is recommened for hot weather.
The car will be getting a Valvoline syn 20W-50 this summer, first time I've run the grade in anything other than a lawnmower.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Wonder how well M1 15W50 would work in a car that strictly specs 20W50?


It worked really well in my old BMW for which a 20W-50 is recommened for hot weather.
The car will be getting a Valvoline syn 20W-50 this summer, first time I've run the grade in anything other than a lawnmower.


I'd always run a 50 weight in my Nissan since I got it (ran Mobil 1 15W50 EP,then the silver cap version more than any other oils). I experimented with about every oil under the sun,and have teetered between 10W40,15W50 ,and 20W50.

My next fill will either be Mobil 1 10W40 (HM) or 15W50. I wonder if there's a quality difference between the base stocks of the two? Mobil years ago had told me their 15W50 (silver cap not the red cap) was a grp IV/V mix with no grp III.
 
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