Redline Synthetic Oil Fans?

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No

Spotty availability, heavy-handed price fixing, their oil just doesn't seem to be worth the price. M1, Edge, Lubro Moly, Motul, etc are probably better than most Redline oils.

I do like their SI1 fuel injector cleaner though. And if I had a Chrysler, I'd use their C+ ATF

Too bad Pep Boys only carries SI1 and water wetter, and according to Redline's site, they can't order their other products. Is that a Pep Boys limitation or a Red Line rule?
 
Oooo me! Their add packs are hearty and my bike runs cooler and quieter on the stuff.

Shockproof gear oil - great.

Their customer service is top notch too. It's nice to get a reply from someone who knows what they're talking about.
 
So far I can tell no difference with my trans shifting on my HD Road King with the Heavy Shockprook compared to the Harley Synthetic I pulled out at beginning of season -- except for a much lighter wallet!!
 
Originally Posted By: donnyj08
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
How'd you guess?


were all 440k miles on the honda achieved running Redline?


Some was done on RLI. And I started on Castrol 5w-30 when I purchased the car new.

I overhauled the engine at 420K because the oil rings were letting too much oil by and it would not pass California smog. The rest of the engine was fine but I had purchased an NOS rebuild kit so I did the bearing, pistons, gaskets, seals and a valve job once I had the engine apart in my driveway and garage. The valves only needed a touch up, no parts replaced. The crank and camshaft were in perfect shape and only required polishing. The cylinder walls showed signs of hone marks and no ridge or taper.

I did go up in viscosity over the years to control oil consumption but no additives other than Auto-RX a couple of times. Oil consumption was reduced but it started back up. Nothing can fix mechanical problems. It got to a point where it was burning 1 to 2 quarts every then 5K OCI down from 10K. It just barley failed the smog test but it did fail.

After the overhaul it passed blowing close to zero numbers and now it does not burn enough oil between 10K intervals to register.


I buy my Red Line products from Fallbrook Oil in Fallbrook. They carry everything at very good prices.

I have over the years received PM's that warned me that Red Line was no good for passenger cars and would ruin my engine. People that have never used Red Line were experts on how bad this oil is and how stupid I am. My only answer is that I'm going to keep using Red Line oil and if that makes me stupid in their eyes then I'm okay with that.

This car continues to be my daily driver. Everything works and basically it's a good car.
 
I use their gear oil and really like it.

On the wife's Lancer, AMSOil gave really hard shifting, even after mixing a couple of flavors of gear oil per AMSOil customer service suggestion. (I don't recall exactly what.)

The Redline MT-85 shifts perfectly without any mixing.
 
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I like their fuel system cleaner. Amsoil MTLs are better than redline, and their dill lubes get noisy faster than other brands.

They do have good white papers, but s lot of that is getting outdated. I've never run their oils. I may at some point. But there are plenty of great and easier/cheaper to get oils.
 
Originally Posted By: kd5byb
I use their gear oil and really like it.

On the wife's Lancer, AMSOil gave really hard shifting, even after mixing a couple of flavors of gear oil per AMSOil customer service suggestion. (I don't recall exactly what.)

The Redline MT-85 shifts perfectly without any mixing.


Is MT85 a viscosity between MTL and MT90 (75W85)?
 
"Back in the day" Redline was the killer solution to air cooled VW engine longevity. Typically you could get 90,000 miles out of a factory engine. With Redline you could double that. I have had to rebuild over 50 VW engines from scratch over 30 years for applications from street to Baja 1000 from 1977 to about 2002. Redline blew away all the dino oils. I had no experience with any other synthetic. I was an "early adopter" of Redline products. Main bearing and valve guide problems with VW's simply went away after switching to Redline 10w-30. We switched all the VW Formula V cars to Redline 5w-20 as soon as it became available and the cars went faster and parts lasted longer. The problem was the Formula Vees were so competitive that once you extended the life of any components you just shaved it away again or honed it differently so that it created less friction or weighed less and wore out faster.

We did a thorough engineering test, and I mean the factory could not have done a better job, of the temperature effects of using Redline oil in a late doghouse style air cooled VW. The oil temps were reduced around 15 degrees F and metal temps were down the same amount compared to Valvoline 10w-30.

I had a few friends who raced Lotus cars and they increased their valve life and bearing life running Redline. The Lotus-Ford twin cams were hard on bearings because so much oil ended up in the head, the oil pick up in the pan was often sucking foam. Redline was able to deal with that better than conventional dino oil. Once again Redline was getting double the life out of the components.

When I used to own my dyno shop, I leased space from a water cooled VW store named New Dimensions. They "pushed" Redline on their customers. When you are working on the same line of cars for 15 years you can make some pretty astute observations about how maintenance habits affect cars. Customers running Redline had much cleaner engines and never had all the seal issues that other long term customers did. You were never pulling a clutch out to change a crank seal or anything like that. When you pulled the cam cover off to replace the valve shims, the Redline cars just had a mirror finish on the shim wear area, not the scratched circular finish that the dino cars were getting.

If somebody asks me how Redline compares to dino oils I say "No contest! Redline flat out wins". How Redline compares to other top shelf synthetics I don't know.

Another point I would like to bring up, if people think that top shelf synthetics don't work better than dino oils based on UOA's, then I think UOA's have a problem. Visual inspections of cars on a day in and day out basis show the synthetics work better. Less wear, less dirt, less varnish.
 
It's great oil for Harleys. I used it for many many years. Tear downs were impressive. Seemed to hold its viscosity longer than other oils I had tried. I used to buy it from a local bike shop in a kit that came with oil for engine, trans, primary and a filter and hat. I think I was paying around $55 for the kit.
 
carock, thanks for your experience.

OneEyeJack, what OCI do you use? (You may have put it in another thread but if so I missed it)
 
Originally Posted By: oldhp
Really like their 75W110 gear oil.


I wonder how Redline 75W110 compares to Amsoil Severe Gear 75W110?
 
Originally Posted By: thorromig
So far I can tell no difference with my trans shifting on my HD Road King with the Heavy Shockprook compared to the Harley Synthetic I pulled out at beginning of season -- except for a much lighter wallet!!


You can run the SPH 25000 miles.
 
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